I am now needing an alignment on my 68 Barracuda, it looks way off, exactly how do the problem solver upper control arm bushings work, do they rotate until tightened by the cam bolts or ?. Thanks Dave

they are offset
so one side is thicker than the other if I recall correctly.

instructions show how to install them to give you more which ever direction you need.
some people don't like them because they are so thin on one side and will wear out faster.
I opted for the firm feel a-arms that already has stuff built in instead of helper bushings.
unless something is wrong with your frame, then that won't help switching to the tubular arms.

I don't know if anyone did it for mopars but modern cars have cam bolts to adjust it instead of the bushing being offset.

Hi Dave,

Read through this thread, it should answer your questions:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2273367/moog-offset-bushings.html

Mike.

m

Why moog decided to orient that picture with front of the car at bottom of pic? Confuses people all the time.

I have had instances when even with the offset bushings, the alignment couldn't get to the optimum position.

For many, many years I have employed the 'Ford fix'. I have a machine shop shorten the trailing arm on both sides by about 1/4". That, along with the offset bushings gives plenty of adjustment with no down side. Other than a little more expense.



And just for the record; that fix is the only thing remotely related to a Ford on my Cuda.

Hi Dave , Please Explain what part and where on the trailing arm to Shorten . I'm Not picturing what to cut or machine off ? We want to learn or Understand better . thank you Ronnie

Upper control arm is the V part of a triangle.
The ball joint/spindle is at the intersection point.
If you shorten the rear leg, or lengthen the front leg, the point where they meet moves, in this case back.
That provides more caster.

Some of the old SS cars, like mine, had theirs done by Jack Arnew - his deal was to widen (lengthen) the front leg.
Side effect was the front wheels had consistent camber, whether on the ground or in a wheelstand.
In my car's case, we could get over 7 degrees of pos caster.

Topside has it. I have the rear upper control arm bushing knuckle cut or machined off where it meets the arm. Then another cut that removes about 1/4" off the arm. The exact amount is not critical. Then weld the UCA knuckle back on. The beauty of this is that it doesn't have to be perfectly square. The bushing will take up any minor deviation. Think of it as moving the ball joint towards the back of the car. Shortening the rear arm effectively swings the ball joint back. Same thing the offset bushings do. Just more of it.

A picture would be worth a thousand words here.

It looked way off, got my undies in a knot worrying, taking it apart today and found I had enough adjustment with the stock setup, so now just waiting to get an alignment done. Thanks Dave

FWIW - and going by memory, as the car's not with me - Jack added what looked like about 1/2" to the width (or length, if you prefer) of the front "leg".
We could actually get 8+ pos caster, but 7 was plenty: straight as a string @ 130 MPH, and nothing disturbed that.
Only downside, if I didn't mention it already here, was when turning the car in the lanes, you don't want your hand between the steering wheel spokes.
It would self-center with a vengeance...

BTW: Learned in my BMW & Vintage TransAm racer days to approximate driver's weight in the seat; 1/2-tank of fuel was really splitting hairs,,,