I have a good working 727 trans out of a '78 Dodge truck with a 318 that I installed in a hopped up 1972 Challenger with a 340. All external band and linkage adjustments have been checked and kickdown lever is set to hit the back of the stop at WOT. Problem is the max shift point I can coax out of the trans is about 5000 RPMs while leaving shifter in drive. I'd like to raise the shift points closer to 6000 RPMs. Do I need to swap out and install a performance valve body, or governor weight, or is there something else I can do to raise shift points?

This. http://www.aandatrans.com/Departments/Chrysler-727-Trans/Governor-Kits.aspx

A transgo TF-2 kit should also work

The Trans-Go TF-2 kit will let you manually shift at whatever rpm you choose.

If you want it to shift at 6k rpm on its own (while in Drive) get the lighter weight governor kit from A&A.

I think my problem is deeper than I originally thought. Took it out for the first time this year and with the pedal smashed to the floor, 1-2 upshift occurs at 2700 RPMs and 2-3 upshift occurs at 3200 RPMs. Checked kickdown lever and it's all the way back to the stop. Going to check line pressure next to see if pump is okay. Any other suggestions?

i have installed many TF-2 kits over the years and have always been able to set the WOT upshift points by adjusting the KD linkage. The governor kit is another way to go

The low WOT at close to 5000 is actually pretty good for a stock low performance governor. However the fact that it now around 3000 is not right. My thinking is a stuck valve. I put a TF2 kit in it since The VB probably needs to be cleaned anyway. Then test. You can juggled shift valve springs to alter shift rpm in D. But in the big picture it may take a governor swap.
Doug

With the throttle lever full back is the stop firm? On rare occasions the weld at the end of the throttle lever shaft will break loose from the cam and cause early shifts.

Feels pretty firm to me but I'll double check. I ordered the T2 kit and will try installing it this weekend. Figured I'd replace the shifter shaft seal while I'm at it. Anything I should be looking for while I have the Valve Body out?

Get the govenor weights , it's still going to shift lower than you'd like .

Double check to make sure your low/reverse band servo shaft 30 cent o ring is not leaking on the backside of transmission while you have the valve body out

You just have to remove the transmission mount and six bolts for tail shaft housing and rotate the tail shaft slightly to clear the tab


Just did this on my 71 Superbee after the transmission shop did not replace that o ring five years ago - It was hard and brittle
Fun laying on my back in the garage

Amazing how much of a mess that little o ring can leave on the garage floor after a winter hibernation

Trans shop did give me the o rings for free along with a newer servo shaft out of an overdrive transmission with double grooves or two o rings


Not a drop since but not a fun job to say the least on your back

after that o-ring is replaced, and before the tail shaft is bolted on, i like to fill the hole behind the shaft that is visible to the outside of the case with either clear silicone sealant or high temperature rtv even with the case surface.
this may not be necessary, but you won't have any worries about seeping or leaks from that shaft.

Do the kick down shaft seal as well. I've done many TF-2 kits and had no issues getting 6-6500 RPM WOT shift points

Where is this located? Pictures?

TF-2 will arrive today. I'll start with that and if shift points don't improve enough, I'll change the gov weights.

please pick up the book : Torqueflight A-727, Transmission Handbook [How to rebuild or modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflight for all applications] by Carl H. Munroe.
it's a great handbook, and does a step by step TF-2 installation with pictures, starting on page 165.
it also details the rebuild process, as well as anything else you may want to learn about this transmission.
well worth the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998/ref=sr_1_2?

might well be good advice as Trans go's Instructions used to be like walking a drunk duck. Loved the kits, but the instructions should have been written for a Dyson or Shark as they Sucked real well. Maybe they've redone them

I've found Trans Go's instructions very easy. Their tech line is great as well.
Doug

although trans-go's instructions are somewhat goofy, i'm like Doug, i haven't had any trouble at all following them, and the end result worked great.
but then again, i've been told many times over my lifetime i'm kind'a goofy............