I have a good working 727 trans out of a '78 Dodge truck with a 318 that I installed in a hopped up 1972 Challenger with a 340. All external band and linkage adjustments have been checked and kickdown lever is set to hit the back of the stop at WOT. Problem is the max shift point I can coax out of the trans is about 5000 RPMs while leaving shifter in drive. I'd like to raise the shift points closer to 6000 RPMs. Do I need to swap out and install a performance valve body, or governor weight, or is there something else I can do to raise shift points?

This. http://www.aandatrans.com/Departments/Chrysler-727-Trans/Governor-Kits.aspx

A transgo TF-2 kit should also work

The Trans-Go TF-2 kit will let you manually shift at whatever rpm you choose.

If you want it to shift at 6k rpm on its own (while in Drive) get the lighter weight governor kit from A&A.

I think my problem is deeper than I originally thought. Took it out for the first time this year and with the pedal smashed to the floor, 1-2 upshift occurs at 2700 RPMs and 2-3 upshift occurs at 3200 RPMs. Checked kickdown lever and it's all the way back to the stop. Going to check line pressure next to see if pump is okay. Any other suggestions?

i have installed many TF-2 kits over the years and have always been able to set the WOT upshift points by adjusting the KD linkage. The governor kit is another way to go

The low WOT at close to 5000 is actually pretty good for a stock low performance governor. However the fact that it now around 3000 is not right. My thinking is a stuck valve. I put a TF2 kit in it since The VB probably needs to be cleaned anyway. Then test. You can juggled shift valve springs to alter shift rpm in D. But in the big picture it may take a governor swap.
Doug

With the throttle lever full back is the stop firm? On rare occasions the weld at the end of the throttle lever shaft will break loose from the cam and cause early shifts.

Feels pretty firm to me but I'll double check. I ordered the T2 kit and will try installing it this weekend. Figured I'd replace the shifter shaft seal while I'm at it. Anything I should be looking for while I have the Valve Body out?

Get the govenor weights , it's still going to shift lower than you'd like .

Double check to make sure your low/reverse band servo shaft 30 cent o ring is not leaking on the backside of transmission while you have the valve body out

You just have to remove the transmission mount and six bolts for tail shaft housing and rotate the tail shaft slightly to clear the tab


Just did this on my 71 Superbee after the transmission shop did not replace that o ring five years ago - It was hard and brittle
Fun laying on my back in the garage

Amazing how much of a mess that little o ring can leave on the garage floor after a winter hibernation

Trans shop did give me the o rings for free along with a newer servo shaft out of an overdrive transmission with double grooves or two o rings


Not a drop since but not a fun job to say the least on your back

after that o-ring is replaced, and before the tail shaft is bolted on, i like to fill the hole behind the shaft that is visible to the outside of the case with either clear silicone sealant or high temperature rtv even with the case surface.
this may not be necessary, but you won't have any worries about seeping or leaks from that shaft.

Do the kick down shaft seal as well. I've done many TF-2 kits and had no issues getting 6-6500 RPM WOT shift points

Where is this located? Pictures?

TF-2 will arrive today. I'll start with that and if shift points don't improve enough, I'll change the gov weights.

please pick up the book : Torqueflight A-727, Transmission Handbook [How to rebuild or modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflight for all applications] by Carl H. Munroe.
it's a great handbook, and does a step by step TF-2 installation with pictures, starting on page 165.
it also details the rebuild process, as well as anything else you may want to learn about this transmission.
well worth the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998/ref=sr_1_2?

might well be good advice as Trans go's Instructions used to be like walking a drunk duck. Loved the kits, but the instructions should have been written for a Dyson or Shark as they Sucked real well. Maybe they've redone them

I've found Trans Go's instructions very easy. Their tech line is great as well.
Doug

although trans-go's instructions are somewhat goofy, i'm like Doug, i haven't had any trouble at all following them, and the end result worked great.
but then again, i've been told many times over my lifetime i'm kind'a goofy............

It's been quite a few years since I did one, so possibly they have rewritten them. They use to jump all over the place. Start with the valve body, go to the case cup restrictor, back to the valve body, modify the plate, lets do the check balls, Oops, now let's drill one of the channels, back to scratching you backside, WHERE WERE WE ? Oh yeah set the line pressure, back to drilling.

probably not quite that bad but close LOL

Update! So I got my Trans-Go kit, dropped and split the valve body. Everything looks as expected in the kit instructions and the factory service manual. HOWEVER, while removing the Regulator Valve End Plate, the throttle pressure plug, valve and sleeve came flying out and shot across the work bench. According to Trans-Go and the FSM, there should not be a spring in this port but there clearly was one in there. My FSM is for a 1970 and the trans is a 1978 from a Ram Charger. Should I put the spring back in when reassembling?

i would see what the 78 ramcharger FSM had to say about that spring.
hopefully, JK will chime in on this discovery.
is that a lock up transmission ?

That redesigned pressure regulator configuration was new for '78, yes leave the spring in.

Okay. Got the VB back together and it's ready to install. Last step is to change the accumulator spring and here is the problem. IT'S impossible! I've searched the internet and apparently I have to remove the tailshaft housing in order to pull the pin that holds the rear servo lever. I read one place where a guy had success prying the band and the lever apart and removing the square strut linkage thing to get at the servo but after trying his technique for an hour, I gave up. Can I just leave the trans kit spring out? I'm setting the trans up for street use only.

No need to remove the lever pin, just back the adjuster all the way off and pop the link out. A little tricky getting it back in, be sure the link is properly centered when prying it back in. The heavy spring reduces the lag time on a manual 1-2 upshift but, yes, you could omit that step.

John,
I clamped the lever down as tight as it would go over the servo. I then reached under the lever and grabbed the edge of the band and pried it back tight against drum. This gave me maximum space to remove the strut. I could jiggle it around easily, but I pried under it and used every sort of pick, reach tool, screw driver, magnet, etc. I could find and it just won't come out. I see that the back side of the lever pin is 90% exposed and held in by a little tab of aluminum hanging off the tail housing. Can't I just cut that tab off, drive the lever pin out just enough to free the lever, perform the spring swap, then fashion a z-bracket and mount off the housing bolt to keep the pin in place?

Trust me you don’t want to do this again

Earlier I mentioned the servo pin/shaft o-ring

You went this far , why not finish the job and do it correctly

Loosen and remove those six bolts for tail shaft

Support the transmission up front

Remove the transmission mount

Look at your linkage , and remove what’s necessary

All you have to do is rotate the tail shaft so the pin/shaft will clear the tab - I have never had to remove the tail shaft or had issues with the tail shaft gasket itself

You DO NOT have to remove the tail shaft

REPLACE O-RING

10-4. I'm surprise the gasket will survive. So I don't have to take out the rear shaft snap ring or drive shaft? There is no o-ring in the TF-2 kit. Do you know the size so I can pick one up at NAPA?
Thx.

No on the snap ring
No on the drive shaft
No on the speedometer cable housing

I had to go with my local transmission shop on the o-ring - I couldn’t find it anywhere locally thru jobbers
They had a used double o-ring shaft for me also

Perfection - Not a drop in weeks
Pan is 100% dry and just using a basic cork/rubber gasket with zero rtv or sealant

I ended up supporting the trans in the front, removed the trans mount, linkage, etc. and spun the housing about 5 degrees and got the shaft out as you suggested. Took all of 20 minutes. My shaft has the double 0-rings and they looked in good shape so I just reused them. The servo spring supplied in the TF-2 kit was so stiff that I had to jack off the floor to press the servo in far enough using a socket in order to get the snap ring on. I'm going to install the VB tonight and hopefully I didn't mess anything up and my shift points improve. I'll use the cork gasket suppled in the kit without rtv. I also installed new shaft seals.

Update - So I test drove the car today after installing the TF-2 kit and I'm somewhat disappointed. The WOT 2-3 shift is much improved and occurs about 4500 as apposed to about 3300 but the 1-2 shift is l occurring about 2800 rpms but better than the 2500-2600 rpms I was getting before. Also, the kickdown from 3 to 2 lags and takes about 2-3 seconds to downshift. The 2 to 1 downshift is non existent. I check linkage and throttle lever is all the way back against the stop at WOT. Trans shifts tight with no slippage. Bands adjusted per kit specs. What's next, governor weights? line pressure check? New Trans??

Did you take the governor apart? Did you check the governor seal rings? some governors have a screen to catch debris. Even a low performance governor should shift higher. Unless the throttle pressure linkage isn't correct. I'm asuming you checked the throttle pressure valve and cam along with the shift valves for freedom of movement when you installed the TF 2 kit?
Doug

2 - 1 downshift should be non existent except for a full stop , downshifting into first moving is a good way to take out the rear sprag with no low band applying, so I believe the kit is working as designed.

Did you check to make sure the throttle valve lever weld underneath was not broken ? What are you using for Throttle vale linkage , stock or aftermarket cable ?

Put a gauge on it and do some checks , do you have a shop manual ?

Not wanting to hijack the thread, but am I understanding that with the TF2 Kit and the part throttle kickdown from 3-2, the ability to kickdown from 3-1 at low speed is eliminated?

I haven't touched the governor yet. Linkage is adjusted correct with all factory components installed. Pressure valve was adjusted per TF-2 instructions and valved moves in and out freely.

I did check the weld per your previous post. Linkage is bone stock and correct for this application. I'm not sure what would cause the 2-3 shift to vastly improve after installing kit bit the 1-2 shift is still early at WOT. Coming home from a show yesterday, I was going atbout 30 mph up a hill and punched the throttle. Took almost 3 seconds to kick down into second.

Can't answer that , it's been a long time since I installed one in anything and my play cars are 4 speeds. , but a 3-1 down shift ...