Does anyone have a hemi e body with the ray barton valve covers? If so, do they hit the inner fenders? Originally I had a small block k member with the Schumacher conversion mounts and now I have a hemi k member conversion from Al Debevec and the passenger side valve cover hits the inner fender and blower motor with both setups. Any trick to getting it to fit without denting the inner fender?

B-Body can have some of the same problems. There is a special right side cover that Indy makes Did you check with Barton?

He told me that he hasn't had any issues and that they fit. However, I have had nothing but issues with the motor since I bought it and they have been zero help , so I'm not sure if they're just saying they fit fine.

I have a pair of Barton covers on my mock up display Hemi in the Racement (racing themed basement), but never used them to mock up in my B Bodies or E Body. I do have the tapered passenger Indy covers on my Hemi in my E Body. They do give you any extra clearance that you may need. If you look closely you can see the tapered section in the center.

If they don't fit then they don't fit regardless of what the mfg tells you. Believe your own eyes not what the sales guy says.

i would expect a little more from Barton BUT I cannot count the number of time in the last 25 years I have been told I WAS THE ONLY ONE HAVING THE PROBLEM
I actually NAILED Hooker headers on newly designed BB corvette side pipes that didn't fit. SOS as above. Caught them on a corvette forum wanting an original BB car to check side pipe fitment. They did compensate me quite well

If other have had the same issue I would suggest collecting some info and going to Ray himself keep us posted

Here are some pictures of the clearance issues. They're not even close to fitting.

They are thick enough castings that you could mill/clearance them to fit and re-wrinkle paint.

Didn't the 64-65 Hemi cars modify the shock tower for clearance? I think they cut it out and flipped it over or something?

If my memory serves me correctly on the two I have installed, they both took special mods. These were stage V valve covers but they are probably the same. We used the stock k frame on both of these cars. One had Arruzza mounts. It was a 68 charger. All we had to do to it was put a 1/4” steel plate spacer between the rubber and the steel mount. It cleared. The e body had Schumacher mounts and the first one did not come close. He called Schumacher and they had a special mount to raise the right side. It still may have taken a spacer, I’m not sure. I’ve got a picture on my phone I’ll try and post. The 65 SS cars had a right side shock tower that was modified and recessed right at the point wher the shock bolts to the tower. The valve covers cleared, you just could not pull them off for the tech inspector at the track. I know you said you have a hemi k frame but my point is you will have to space the right side higher in order for it to fit. This picture is after the mod. I don’t have a picture of the valve cover but it was about the same.

What kind of issues are you having with the engine?

might also be able to cut for clearance on the Valve cover and fill with a small section round tube or curved flat stock. Would have to make sure there was no inside interference which is doubtful

Were you able to get the driver's side insulator to sit flat? I recall you reported that issue last Fall.

there is no such thing as a "bolt on part".

FWIW...I have the Indy valve covers on my hemi...not the ones w/ the clearance notch built into them. I heated and clearanced the inner fender near the shock stud w/ a BFH. I removed the heater & blower motor assembly years ago, so I can't comment on clearance there.

The engine only has 150 street miles on it, zero track time or full throttle blasts and absolutely no beating on the car, and it has already had 6 different rear mail seals installed in it, 4 by me and 2 by Ray himself, 2 different real main seal retainers, and it just pours oil to the point it can't even be driven. Tons of blowby coming out of the breathers , 2 different sets of piston rings installed in it, same issues and this was all at my expense on a brand new engine. I told them I still have the same issues after pulling out the engine 3 different times and going back and forth all the way to their shop just to basically be told tough luck. If you would like to know more about it, I can PM you details. I don't want it to look like a post about me bashing someone or a company.

Lots of places are having issues getting rear main seals to not leak. Guess it's just poor quality seals. Not taking up for Ray, just saying.
Sorry to hear you've had so much trouble w/ it. I know it sucks after making such an investment.

I've been real busy with work, so I haven't had time in the past couple of months to work on it. I'm finally getting back around to it now, but no, the drivers side still sits up about 3/8" to 1/2" off of the k frame. Even if I get this to drop down all of the way, I still don't think it'll be enough to correct the passenger side. I initially considered adding a spacer between the mount, but started to wonder if it would cause any drive train alignment issues since the motor would be shimmed up on the one side. I'm wasnt sure if it would affect the transmission or driveline angle since technically the whole assembly would now be raised on the one side.

I was wondering who's block he used in the build.

World aluminum block