Brad... were you planning to run an air pan with that hood?

Yep

Keep this updated if possible been trying to figure out a design for mine, but my intake sits to high

Gonna make a new one the same way I did one before:
- find a drop-style air cleaner base that lowers the filter surface below the surface of the hood
- cut out a cardboard template that matches the underside of the hood that you want to seal off
- cut out an opening in the template where the air cleaner base will mount
- get a sheet of thin luan (?) wood and cut to match cardboard template
- pop-rivet or screw air cleaner base to wood sealing plate
- get some fire-resistant foam (I use what Moroso sells)
- it requires trial & error test fittings to determine how much foam to glue on perimeter of sealing plate

If you have room for an air filter, installing the complete filter housing holds the sealing plate in place

Otherwise, the hood itself when closed may hold it in position; that's how my last one worked

Here's the one for this hood...

I'm expecting the Braswell base on the right will lower the plate enough to use w/ this head & intake combo that pushes the carb mounting surface up even more than before. Since I have only 4150 carbs, I've probably got more options for air cleaner configurations.

What intake you use? That wood looks kind of thick.

The wood is only ~ .200" thick, yet still does a good job of isolating heat from the carb. You can put your hand on the hood when the engine's been running and feel a noticeable temp diff between the hood exposed to under-hood heat and the hood isolated by the sealing pan.

I have a Trick Flow intake on top of Victor heads, so a tall intake w/ raised intake ports shifts the carb up quite a bit.

Roger that ....Thx you

Anyone have any thoughts or experience with knowing what happens when your hood scoop is too big? Does it jack with your tune, or...? Thx

After further digging into the subject... I guess this will be "interesting" to figure out on my own

Long story short is that scoop opening is waaaaaayyyyy too freakin' big IMO, but it is what it is

It is big, but it isn't THAT tall. Not way up in the "good" air so to speak. Although the 6 pack hood I used to have on my car was worth a tenth to a tenth and a half when it was sealed to the carb. So they do work even when they're kinda short.

I saw the same amount of improvement from sealing the stock T/A scoop setup vs running the scoop w/o a fresh-air plate

As far as the scoop being "too big", I'm not the first -- or only -- person to run a Big-N-Ugly one. VFN doesn't offer this style any longer (not on their web site now), but "340Rick" had theirs on his Chally. Not identical, but still pretty close.

While you are fabbing up your air pan. Is it possible to maybe leave enough area to build some sort of dam to slow the air down

I have a couple of ideas on things I may need to try out, including plugging off one half of the scoop, air "baffles" (like you mentioned), spring-loaded trap doors to allow some amount of excess airflow to vent...

If the scoop is sealed to the hood then I would imagine it would build pressure and maybe not be as turbulent as it would be if there was no pan or sealing to the hood. I know some EFI guys I follow have noted positive manifold pressure with those lexan scoops.

I remember years ago Thumper had mention something about adding release holes in the back of his hood scoop to release turbulence to his carbs. It made sense. I put hole in the rear of my hood to release under hood pressure because I had pressure building on the top end where the hood would stress crack.

That’s what I did.

Lexan scoops are an issue, they simply don't have enough volume in that small space, so yes they need to be vented. A properly sized scoop for the engines needs does NOT need to be vented in any way. There are anumber of sources out there to help determine what sixe your engine actually NEEDS.

Here is just one article on the subject but its not difficult to calculate the volume needed

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-t...p-speed-with-a-forward-facing-air-inlet/