I have a problem that’s really stumping me. A few weeks ago my throttle started hanging up and not fully returning to idle. I have checked everything and it seems to be working smoothly. When it hangs up I can lift up on the the gas pedal with my toe and it returns to idle. The throttle cable is an OEM type purchased from Ehrenberg and is only a couple of years old. I’ve disconnected it from the pedal and carb and it moves freely. The carb linkage seems to operate freely. I’ve replaced the throttle return spring with a hefty double spring that has increased the pedal effort noticeably, but it still hands up. The throttle cable pivots freely on the carb arm so it’s not hanging up there. I even lubed the gas pedal pivot. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the throttle cable. Oh, and it’s a BG Road Demon carb. Any suggestions would REALLY be appreciated.

Okay, it’s definitely an issue with the throttle cable. I had my girlfriend depress and release the pedal to varying degrees of throttle opening and each time it failed to fully return. And the more she pressed it the further open it stuck. With the cable disconnected the carb snaps right back to fully closed. 🤨

Are you using studs or bolts on the carb? Use studs if not already and retorque evenly on all four corners crisscrossing as if you were bolting a wheel on. Had the throttle blades stick open just past idle on a Holley once and this solved it. My guess is the unequal torque was warping the carb body slightly.

Where does the cable attach to the arm ? Some locations can cause a bind or over-center, where the arm's motion has interference.
Or maybe some other linkage is interfering ?
Throttle blade or air cleaner interference, perhaps ?

Remove the cable & hang it up, then dribble chain/cable lube into it till it drips out the bottom.

It attaches in the same spot it always has and I haven't had a problem before. I checked for interference with other things and don't see any. Also it happens with the air cleaner off and nothing anywhere near the cable. The cable attaching point has a little slack and pivots freely, so I don't think it's binding anywhere. I did notice that the problem started right after you were here helping me work on the car so I figure you sabotaged it. I'll get even...

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

1. A cable that's adjusted too tight at idle will create the above symptoms
2. A gasket overhanging the opening in the intake will also do the same.
3. Might want to check you mechanical advance and make sure it is returning to its initial setting before it reaches IDLE RPM. If the springs are a bit loose it will cause the idle to "float" and make one chase their tail. AMHIK

Does anyone think the way the throttle cable "loops" around could cause it to bind? Isn't that kind of the point of a cable is that it can be routed like this?

Suggestion #1 is something I'll double check. I did adjust the throttle cable to make sure I was getting full throttle opening and it's possible I need a bit more slack. But I think the fact that I can get it back to idle by lifting the pedal with my toe kind of rules out both #2 and #3. Also the further you press the pedal the farther open it hangs up so I still think it's an issue with the cable dragging somehow.

I'll check that everything is evenly torqued. Thanks!

Make sure the thrtottle blades aren't hanging up on the intake ports.

hi

well if you have lubed your cable that was your first mistake !

the throttle cable is suppose to operate clean and dry !

the build up of oil and dirt will cause it do drag and not release !

remove it and wash it clean with bake clean or mineral spirits

dry it complete and reinstall it dry ! no lube !

I have had the nut that tightens on the throttle cable clamp, at the carburetor be just a little too tight, and it would make the throttle stick a little. Loosen the throttle cable clamp nut an 1/8 of a turn.

See what happens if the return spring is mounted at the top eyelet, where it has more influence than it does in the lower area.
Or, use the bottom eyelet with a rear-facing spring to the stationary bracket.

Surprised it's still running after that tube of valve-lapping paste I jammed into the oil supply when you weren't looking...

not necessarily on 2 and 3.
Looking at your picture, at Idle and off choke, You should be able to move the cable up and down slightly WITHOUT the throttle arm moving AT ALL
The end connections ( both) in the oval shuld be free to move with NO DRAG IE: screw too tight, cable end binding on throttle arm due to being too short
The comment on the clamp being too tight is another possible culprit
keep us posted

I am having a hard time believing it is providing full throttle either . Mopar pedal throttle movement is about 1 3/8" from my memory. Usually that's closer to the pivot point than that. Even if it is able at providing a full sweep at max throttle the mount is too high, the last bit of yank is sweeping in a downward motion. I would be nice to see the rest of the return spring set up. And I agree it looks awful tightly strung to me, probably in attempt to achieve full throttle.Putting the clevis on each side of the throttle arm is a bad idea also. It should be on a pin or stud so that it can rotate fully on its mount.

You need the Chrysler throttle lever adapter

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/brackets_and_linkage/parts/20-7

ah HA !!!! SAB A TOO GEE !!!!!