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Cam Break in? #3071289
08/25/22 08:35 AM
08/25/22 08:35 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
RATTRAP Offline OP
pro stock
RATTRAP  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
How many have removed the inner valve springs for break in?
Is there any rule to this being required!

Re: Cam Break in? [Re: RATTRAP] #3071311
08/25/22 10:05 AM
08/25/22 10:05 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,020
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
I Win
JohnRR  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,020
U.S.S.A.
Flat tappet ? Aggressive lobes ?


running up my post count some more .
Re: Cam Break in? [Re: JohnRR] #3071327
08/25/22 10:39 AM
08/25/22 10:39 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
RATTRAP Offline OP
pro stock
RATTRAP  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
Originally Posted by JohnRR
Flat tappet ? Aggressive lobes ?


Roller tappet & aggressive cam lobes!
valve lift
Intake .760 exhaust .721, 266/282 duration

Re: Cam Break in? [Re: RATTRAP] #3071330
08/25/22 10:46 AM
08/25/22 10:46 AM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,334
Heaven
EvilB1Dart Offline
master
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Posts: 6,334
Heaven
What type of cam and springs? Real aggressive? That'll make the decision a little easier on whether to do it or not. Key is to just follow the provided instructions to cover your a** and mitigate disaster. However, if you decide to not remove the inner springs check the lifters to make sure they're free and can move in the bores. If one lifter stops its lights out! Use good oil and additive, etc. Most importantly prime the engine before you fire it, and when it fires your going to want that thing hitting the RPMs 2200-2500 instantly for good oil circulation for 20-25 minutes. Then slowly back off the throttle when that time comes.

If it were me I'd just take the time to break it in right by removing the inner springs. Taking the inner spring out is cheap insurance against a failure no matter what as there is less psi on it to maybe prevent that lifter from moving. Yeah its more work, but why risk it and you won't. have that sick feeling in your stomach or crossing your fingers before you hit the ignition button. Again, run good quality oil/additive.











"Any fool can know. The point is to understand"

- A. Einstein
Re: Cam Break in? [Re: EvilB1Dart] #3071331
08/25/22 10:51 AM
08/25/22 10:51 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
RATTRAP Offline OP
pro stock
RATTRAP  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
Originally Posted by EvilB1Dart
What type of cam and springs? Real aggressive? That'll make the decision a little easier on whether to do it or not. Key is to just follow the provided instructions to cover your a** and mitigate disaster. However, if you decide to not remove the inner springs check the lifters to make sure they're free and can move in the bores. If one lifter stops its lights out! Use good oil and additive, etc. Most importantly prime the engine before you fire it, and when it fires your going to want that thing hitting the RPMs 2200-2500 instantly for good oil circulation for 20-25 minutes. Then slowly back off the throttle when that time comes.

If it were me I'd just take the time to break it in right by removing the inner springs. Taking the inner spring out is cheap insurance against a failure no matter what as there is less psi on it to maybe prevent that lifter from rotating. Yeah its more work, but why risk it and you won't. have that sick feeling in your stomach or crossing your fingers before you hit the ignition button. Again, run good quality oil/additive.



Spring pressure is 300 seat & 750 open.

Re: Cam Break in? [Re: RATTRAP] #3071332
08/25/22 10:54 AM
08/25/22 10:54 AM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 713
Lake Villa Il
INTMD8 Offline
super stock
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 713
Lake Villa Il
Originally Posted by RATTRAP


Spring pressure is 300 seat & 750 open.


You don't need to remove the inner spring to run in a solid roller. There shouldn't be much "break in" going on.

If running a bushed lifter you will likely need to break those in with some rpm.


Last edited by INTMD8; 08/25/22 10:55 AM.

69 Charger. 438ci Gen2 hemi. Flex fuel. Holley HP efi. 650rwhp @7250 510rwtq @5700
Re: Cam Break in? [Re: RATTRAP] #3071341
08/25/22 11:42 AM
08/25/22 11:42 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,365
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda Offline
I Live Here
an8sec70cuda  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,365
Marion, South Carolina [><]
No cam break-in needed w/ a roller.


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
Re: Cam Break in? [Re: RATTRAP] #3071343
08/25/22 11:46 AM
08/25/22 11:46 AM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,334
Heaven
EvilB1Dart Offline
master
EvilB1Dart  Offline
master

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,334
Heaven
Originally Posted by RATTRAP
Originally Posted by JohnRR
Flat tappet ? Aggressive lobes ?


Roller tappet & aggressive cam lobes!
valve lift
Intake .760 exhaust .721, 266/282 duration


Yep, as stated. No cam break-in with a roller.


"Any fool can know. The point is to understand"

- A. Einstein
Re: Cam Break in? [Re: RATTRAP] #3071367
08/25/22 01:14 PM
08/25/22 01:14 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,200
Bend,OR USA
C
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
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C

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,200
Bend,OR USA
No need to break in a steel billet solid roller cam scope up
If is a cast core break it in like any other new cam up
treed in less thna40 seconds, good on all of those helping up bow grin

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 08/25/22 01:16 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)






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