Moparts

Cam Break in?

Posted By: RATTRAP

Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 12:35 PM

How many have removed the inner valve springs for break in?
Is there any rule to this being required!
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 02:05 PM

Flat tappet ? Aggressive lobes ?
Posted By: RATTRAP

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 02:39 PM

Originally Posted by JohnRR
Flat tappet ? Aggressive lobes ?


Roller tappet & aggressive cam lobes!
valve lift
Intake .760 exhaust .721, 266/282 duration
Posted By: EvilB1Dart

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 02:46 PM

What type of cam and springs? Real aggressive? That'll make the decision a little easier on whether to do it or not. Key is to just follow the provided instructions to cover your a** and mitigate disaster. However, if you decide to not remove the inner springs check the lifters to make sure they're free and can move in the bores. If one lifter stops its lights out! Use good oil and additive, etc. Most importantly prime the engine before you fire it, and when it fires your going to want that thing hitting the RPMs 2200-2500 instantly for good oil circulation for 20-25 minutes. Then slowly back off the throttle when that time comes.

If it were me I'd just take the time to break it in right by removing the inner springs. Taking the inner spring out is cheap insurance against a failure no matter what as there is less psi on it to maybe prevent that lifter from moving. Yeah its more work, but why risk it and you won't. have that sick feeling in your stomach or crossing your fingers before you hit the ignition button. Again, run good quality oil/additive.









Posted By: RATTRAP

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 02:51 PM

Originally Posted by EvilB1Dart
What type of cam and springs? Real aggressive? That'll make the decision a little easier on whether to do it or not. Key is to just follow the provided instructions to cover your a** and mitigate disaster. However, if you decide to not remove the inner springs check the lifters to make sure they're free and can move in the bores. If one lifter stops its lights out! Use good oil and additive, etc. Most importantly prime the engine before you fire it, and when it fires your going to want that thing hitting the RPMs 2200-2500 instantly for good oil circulation for 20-25 minutes. Then slowly back off the throttle when that time comes.

If it were me I'd just take the time to break it in right by removing the inner springs. Taking the inner spring out is cheap insurance against a failure no matter what as there is less psi on it to maybe prevent that lifter from rotating. Yeah its more work, but why risk it and you won't. have that sick feeling in your stomach or crossing your fingers before you hit the ignition button. Again, run good quality oil/additive.



Spring pressure is 300 seat & 750 open.
Posted By: INTMD8

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 02:54 PM

Originally Posted by RATTRAP


Spring pressure is 300 seat & 750 open.


You don't need to remove the inner spring to run in a solid roller. There shouldn't be much "break in" going on.

If running a bushed lifter you will likely need to break those in with some rpm.

Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 03:42 PM

No cam break-in needed w/ a roller.
Posted By: EvilB1Dart

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by RATTRAP
Originally Posted by JohnRR
Flat tappet ? Aggressive lobes ?


Roller tappet & aggressive cam lobes!
valve lift
Intake .760 exhaust .721, 266/282 duration


Yep, as stated. No cam break-in with a roller.
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Cam Break in? - 08/25/22 05:14 PM

No need to break in a steel billet solid roller cam scope up
If is a cast core break it in like any other new cam up
treed in less thna40 seconds, good on all of those helping up bow grin
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