when installing a after marker intake manifold<edelbrock performer none egr> on a stock 318 with stock egr 318 heads, what gasket is best for a good seal and for covering the openings above the cross over ports in the heads, how thick? thanks

I just used a felpro 1243 set which is a premium composition set(stock small port 318 heads w alum intake)though the tin ones were OK(the leak was elsewhere ). You want those horseshoe openings left open.

That and toss the end pieces.Just use a good bead of quality RTV under the ends.Rocky

IIRC fel-pro intake gasket 1213 has the heat cross over block and is a good gasket

most likly it will burn through later on,which all of mine did

I used some thin tin and cut a peice and rounded the ends and rtv them in place on the head,then installed the gaskets and intake

I use rtv in the corners good and use the end gaskets my self,torquing the intake down slowly and not let the gasket slide out on the ends,kinda feel/push on it with my fingers as it torques down...but thats me

I do recomend that you let it sit over night and let the rtv cure 24hrs before running the engine to prevent leaks

I trimed the metal heat blockoff to fit over the port only and left the 1/2 moon looking part open to disapate the heat there,cant even tell its blocked by looking

I also use a 1/2"-4-hole stacked plate insulating spacer under the carb on my performer intake,gasket,metal plate,gasket,plat,gasket,plate ...ect..even had it stack to 1" high also
I have used the 3/8" fiber composite carb insulater gasket from eddybroke with good results to keep the eddy carb cool,it does not take much heat to perk the gas in them now days
the composite gasket kinda went south after 2-3 yrs and was swelling and feathering on the side going into the plenum of itake..so I went with the stacked 4-hole plates

If you had a leak with RTV you either didnt use enough or used cheap stuff.Been using it in SB and Chevy for like 25 years.Never had a leak.Now those dang corks they leaked.Kids truck was put together 10 years ago.Still as dry as new.That and it carries 80 psi cold and 50 hot idling.Rocky

thanks folks, i had to remove the steel pins from the front and rear sealing surface's and also used rtv in place of the cork front and real seals due to hight issue, used fel pro blue #90109<napa> intake gaskets and rtv sealer around all the ports. every thing lined up nice and then torqued the manifold down slowly. i will let it set till tomorrow before running. i used 1 paper gasket, 1 1/8 in thick metal square plate, and 1 more paper gasket under the eddy carb. as i stated in a earlier thread, p.o. did a number on the throttle linkage, so does any one have a diagram of the proper linkage and kickdown linkage placement? thanks

I use RTV on the ends & just clean it well so that it will stick. The problem I have is the cork end gaskets were just a bit too thick & caused the water ports to leak after awhile.

Unless you cut the intake for the metal block offs you will get an internal vacuum leak.

I even cut the gasket and applied RTV this was on the Mr.Gasket Ultraseals.

This was using the MP stainless block off plates.

BTW a torch won't harm RTV.

yea the MP block off is to thick IMO

I used sheet metel that was 1/8 the thickness of the MP one and have been fine

have used them over a few times

well after letting every sit over night, i went out to day and mounted the eddy 600 cmf carb, cleaned the water neck mounting surface and installed new thermostat and gasket, also while i had the intake off i swapped out the oil sending unit as it was more accessible. filled up with anti freeze and checked for leaks, no leaks. hooked up the throttle linkage, still trying to fabricate something for the auto kick down, but all the linkage looks like its there minus a piece or to hehe. started it up and let it run till good and warm then took it out for a little spin, ran much better then it did when i first got it. now its time for some fine tunning and fiddling, gonna look at the timing and a/f mix tomorrow. p.s. no vacuum leaks that i could find

dont be drivin it with out the throttle pressure rod hooked up

you will be getting a crash course in trant R&R real quik like

if your swaping from 2-v to 4-v and are using the 2-v linkage..most tomes you can just lengthin the rod from bell crank to carb 1 1/4" - 1 1/2"

to get it hooked up and adjusted,that will make it shift out and most likly perform better

got any pics of what your linkage set up looks like at the carb/intake...maybe able to see what you need to get it hooked up