Hi fellow members. I'm thinking of changing my 1969 big block Dart steering box from the factory 24:1 ratio to the faster 16:1 ratio. If I do, are there any other components that need changing along with it? Thanks.

Arm muscles

It wouldn't be so funny if it wasn't true.

Why do I need arm muscle when I have a impact wench. So I'm guessing no other components need to be changed except the steering box, correct?

They are talking about increased STEERING effort with the faster ratio.

You don't want a 16:1 ratio box in a big block car. Even a 20:1 box is hard to steer at slow speeds. A 16:1 box is brutal in a parking lot or parallel parking.

Okay. Maybe I have the steering boxes mixed up then. I was thinking the factory's 16:1 manual box was an option on Dodge cars back in the day and was suppose to be easier to steer. Maybe it's the other way around and I want the 24:1 box. What ratio manual steering boxes came standard on Dodge cars back in 1969?

Most cars came with a 24:1 ratio box. There was an optional 16:1 box that is very rare. Very rare doesn't mean desirable!
30 years ago I found a 16:1 box and installed it in my big block Coronet. I figured it was the cool thing to do. Almost crashed the car at the first corner I came to. Pulled the box out and sold it to a guy with a small block A body car who was road racing. He used it for a while and then pulled it out and replaced it with PS. The 16:1 boxes make the car a bear to drive at slow speeds. They work just fine on the freeway or corner carving but you'll hate it if you drive the car around town.

Thanks for the advice guys. I guess I'll stick with a new 24:1 ratio steering box from PST.

I drove a big block B body car for years with a 20:1 box. It was fine once you got it past 10 mph. Below 10 mph it required a lot of effort to turn the wheel. I switched the car over to PS last winter and it was a joy to drive after that. It is really nice to drive now, much easier to deal with during city driving than that 20:1 box. I had a 24:1 box in my Duster with a big block. It was also easy to drive but you do need to spin the wheel a lot with the lower effort box. It is just a big trade off so you need to decide what is really important to you.

The fast ratio box was used in the T/A and AAR E bodies , but it used a longer pitarm , maybe a longer idler arm also ? I never drove one , only a big block A body with manual steering and once you got moving it wasn't bad .

All the T/A and AAR Cuda came with power steering is what I was told by Galen when I had my T/A

Nope! Personally seen a stock T/A with the 24-1 manual box.

Heard about a T/A equipped with regular power steering since new.

I'd assume both types of power were options on a T/A, unless this was an assembly line screw-up.

I'd vote for a 20-1 box in an A body if going manual.

But NEVER on a car you might want to autocross with!

Article in mopar action years ago mentioned a ta not having the quick ratio as being a deal breaker, so the guy went around and tried others until he found one.

is it true that the quick ratio idler arm is a common C-body item ?

hmm, been driving my 51 Plymouth with for a couple for years now. Flathead six weights 625, 440 is 670lbs. My manual steering ratio is 18.2:1. Not quite as bad as the 16:1 setup but I have no problems wheeling it about and neither does my 16yo son.

We don't autocross it either. Nor have I put in a smaller steering wheel or fatter tires in the front, they are 215/70R15's, probably close to what most run.

I'm thinking the claim that stock high ratio manual steering being hard to turn falls into the realm of urban myth, or some have some serious spaghetti arms.

If he did say that, he was wrong.

The T/As came with manual steering standard & regular power steering as well as fast ratio power steering were extra cost items.

For the AARs, standard with manual steering also, but the only extra cost option was fast ratio power steering. (no regular power steering in an AAR)

To be honest, I really do like the Firm Feel Inc stage Ii power steering box. The feel of it and the way it works compared to stock on is totally different. Dick (one of the owners) builds and races only Mopar suspension. If you want to handle great as well as steer great, get in contact with him and he’ll give you nicest guys with the nicest stuff.