Which diff to build
#2949097
07/31/21 11:08 AM
07/31/21 11:08 AM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 250 Saskatchewan (SK)
79410aspenrt
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 250
Saskatchewan (SK)
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I want to upgrade my diff in my drag car. I have a 8-3/4” under the car now.
Dana 60 Ford 9”
Which one and why?
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: 79410aspenrt]
#2949106
07/31/21 11:30 AM
07/31/21 11:30 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,174 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
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"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,174
PA.
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Ohhhhh boy here we go. Lol 😂
I have two dusters with Dana’s and one with a 9 inch. I prefer the 9 inch for ease of installation as I have extra gear sets ready to go.
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: 79410aspenrt]
#2949122
07/31/21 12:10 PM
07/31/21 12:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,917 A shed in England
Tig
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,917
A shed in England
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I want to upgrade my diff in my drag car. I have a 8-3/4” under the car now.
Dana 60 Ford 9”
Which one and why? I'm also onsidering a Ford 9" since myself (and other's) are struggling to find pro gears lower than a 4.10 ratio for a Dana.
'74 Challenger..9.46 @ 145.9 1/4, 6.001 @ 118 1/8 so far. 4023lb !!! # N/A, Marsh performance 655ci, Indy Maxx, T/R, Indy 600-13 X's, Street legal, pump gas, full interior, Cal-Tracs, mufflers, 3:73's and real 10.5 radials. 9.51 @ 142.4 1/4, 6.003 @ 114 1/8 with our old mule KB, 572-13, 580 wedge. RHD '68 Barracuda Fastback 323ci street/strip. Best ET 13.88 @ 99.03
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: A/MP]
#2949133
07/31/21 12:35 PM
07/31/21 12:35 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 250 Saskatchewan (SK)
79410aspenrt
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 250
Saskatchewan (SK)
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Before that "OOHHH boy"" onslaught begins, tell us what you have car/motor/suspensionwise and where you are HP/ET. 77 RoadRunner tube chassis. 2750 lbs race weight. 340 W2, runs 10.0's at 132 mph. ladder bar suspension. i want to upgrade the diff as i will be building a new engine. should run in the 9.30-40 range
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: Stanton]
#2949170
07/31/21 02:44 PM
07/31/21 02:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,917 A shed in England
Tig
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,917
A shed in England
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A Dana is a ... Dana. They just happen to have been installed in Mopars !! Correct, there is a Dana 60 installed in our Iveco Van
'74 Challenger..9.46 @ 145.9 1/4, 6.001 @ 118 1/8 so far. 4023lb !!! # N/A, Marsh performance 655ci, Indy Maxx, T/R, Indy 600-13 X's, Street legal, pump gas, full interior, Cal-Tracs, mufflers, 3:73's and real 10.5 radials. 9.51 @ 142.4 1/4, 6.003 @ 114 1/8 with our old mule KB, 572-13, 580 wedge. RHD '68 Barracuda Fastback 323ci street/strip. Best ET 13.88 @ 99.03
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: 79410aspenrt]
#2949197
07/31/21 04:27 PM
07/31/21 04:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,030 Oregon
AndyF
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,030
Oregon
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Before that "OOHHH boy"" onslaught begins, tell us what you have car/motor/suspensionwise and where you are HP/ET. 77 RoadRunner tube chassis. 2750 lbs race weight. 340 W2, runs 10.0's at 132 mph. ladder bar suspension. i want to upgrade the diff as i will be building a new engine. should run in the 9.30-40 range A Dana might work for you, just depends on what gear ratio you need. These days it is probably smarter to go with a nine inch, especially if you might be selling the car down the road. I changed from a Dana 60 to a 9 inch in my Duster since I couldn't buy the correct ratio for the Dana.
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: Stanton]
#2949200
07/31/21 04:48 PM
07/31/21 04:48 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684 W. Kentucky
justinp61
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
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A Dana is a ... Dana. They just happen to have been installed in Mopars !! And Ford trucks, Ford vans and Chevy trucks. I have a S-60 in my Dart, if I were doing it over it would be a 9”. Look at all the options for gears and brakes.
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: jwb123]
#2949215
07/31/21 06:21 PM
07/31/21 06:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,997 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,997
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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About the cheapest conversion for a rear a lot stronger than an 83 /4 is ( or was) a truck dana with a clutch type posi and a ratio you can use. I found a Dana 60 with 4.10 gears. A used set of 35 spline axles , a disc brake kit, spring pads and I had a strong rear for my 535 stroker on the cheap. The posi didn't survive long but some home made shims added to the clutch pack in the diff locked it up. As I recall it only took one shim made from the end of a 3 lb coffee can to do the trick. This was done 40 years ago so I have no clue as to what dana 60s go for at the boneyard or what posi's, or ratios are available now days.
Last edited by gregsdart; 07/31/21 06:22 PM.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: gregsdart]
#2949229
07/31/21 07:13 PM
07/31/21 07:13 PM
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457 Washington
madscientist
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457
Washington
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Running a 4.10 gear I’d use the Dana 60. They are cheaper to build of you look around. You can use the brakes off your 8.75. The biggest issue is finding the gear sets like Andy said. If the gear ratio(s) you use are easy to get the D60 is a no brainer. I just had a D60 done for my car. After pricing it out to get the same thing in a 9 it was over a grand more, all else being equal. And I’ll say it again...the oft quoted saying of it’s easier to change the gear sets is just that. Very few people EVER do it the way they claim. Plus, you have the added expense of another third member. I’m a value kind of guy, not the run what everyone else does because it’s trendy. At your power level you should be able to put several hundred runs on a D60 gear set and never think about it. The one thing I didn’t do when I did my D60 was 40 spline axles and spool. I’m just kicking myself right now for not doing that.
Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
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Re: Which diff to build
[Re: J_BODY]
#2949275
07/31/21 11:43 PM
07/31/21 11:43 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173
Bend,OR USA
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I have an S60 in my Duster. Have 4.30 gears and 4.56 already on spools. Really doesn’t take that long to swap gears and is certainly cheaper than a whole after market “pig” set up ready to swap. If you do go 9” do your homework on a housing that will hold up. Ladder bar kind of hard on stuff. My rear including rotors/calipers is 198lb. My S/P car had a Mark Williams Dana 60 with his 40 spline axles and aluminum spool with a set of Pro Gear 5.87 ratio , I replace them with a new Moser 40 spline 4 series spool and a used set of Dana stock 4.56 ratio ring and pinion out of a used pick up rear end rom a junk yard. I wanted to use a set of stock Dana 4.10 gears but no one makes a 3 series 40 spline spool I can reinstalled those Pro gears by changing the rear pinion bearing shim by .003 Probably take me less than 2 hours now, I'm 76 yrs old and getting slower The car had a all aluminum KB blown alcohol motor with B1 heads that ran 7.64 at 184+ MPH with the driver weighing under 2600 Lbs. is the story I was told. I have a lot of runs on those used 4.56 now with a 400 stroker motor on E85, best ET so far is 8.86 at 150. MPH weighing 2850 Lbs. with me in it. No noise or problems with that dana 60 so far
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 08/01/21 12:57 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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