butyl tape comes in different shapes also. round and square. i like the round better because it is easier to get it to squish down and seal. if you are not sure what size to use, install mldgs. without glass. measure how much room is left, subtract thickness of glass. use tape that is just slightly thicker. windshields made today are alot thinner than the 60's/70's. same with tempered. (backs and sides) you never want to use silicone between rubber and metal. most silicone is acid base, thats why it smells like vinegar. however it is acceptable/ recommended to use silicone between the rubber and glass. it seals and will easily come loose in the future if needed. just lay a small bead, 1/8" before zipping gasket. zip gasket, spray with glass cleaner, scrape gently with razor. use urethane or the gooey butyl stuff between rubber and metal. clean up with mineral spirits. also not a bad idea to tape off painted surfaces. dennis

after following these good tips on sealants and checking clip location i used the cord method on my road runner. the bottom has to go in first. you will need 2 people. after you pull the lip of the seal around the pinch weld you will probably still find that the top of the windshield doesn't pull in. it is because the windshield needs pulled from top toward the bottom. i found that the z-shaped tool for laying laminate flooring worked perfect for me. it lets you hook to the top of the gasket and gives you plenty of leverage. it's not as bad as it sounds.

One basic question I seem to be missing the answer to. Do you put the gasket on the windshield first and then install it or do you put the gasket on the car first and then install the glass?

I just did my 67 coronet and it had the lockstrip type of gasket.. After you install the WS, the lock strip,on the exterior of the gasket, needs to be "tucked" in with a tool. There is a lip that tucks under the other side.. The other type of gasket comes with a seperate "filler" strip that is installed into the exterior of the WS gasket

Thanks.

i had a glass guy come to my garage for 75.00 plus glass,as a first time restorer i can add,be sure that your dash frame is centered,as when you put the rest of the interior trim around pad you will not be sorry,as i just found out ,now may have to remove glass to get dash frame over 1/2"

i think those guys answered your question. the gasket has to be on the windshield first and of course the dash must be in and centered. i'm not sure but i'd think your gasket would be the same as my 69 rr, without the locking bead. it is important to start the bottom in first. at first it will look like it won't fit but slowly it works it's way in. just don't be tempted to pound on it too much. good luck.

I appreciate all of the comments. This is exactly the kind of information I was looking for.

I've installed glass on several A ,C and B bodies mopars over the years and this is my

Doing this correctly is a lost art IMO and taking it to a "glass shop" may not be the best choice unless they understand the special needs older Mopars require.
Most glass installers will probably grab a tub or tubes of urethane sealer and go with that. Not a good plan IMO.

Its always a good idea to start with new glass and rubber gasket for the windshield and a 3/8 round bead seal or ribbon sealer {3m Part number 08612} for the rear.

As already discussed make positive that the clips are correct and mounted in the the correct place for each clip some time the side are a little shorter than the top. Make sure the screws or rivets {shame on you if you use rivets } are sealed.
It's a real good idea to test fit the moldings before committing to the install.

For the windshield clean the glass with windex.
Trim any excess laminate from the edge of the glass with a razor blade.
Clean the new gasket seal to remove the release agent and any other contaminants.
for a locking gasket install the gasket in the pinch weld with a small bead of 3M bedding compound to the grove in the gasket that fits to the body. Install the gasket to the body.
Now slide the glass in the bottom of the gasket and by using windshield bones gently and evenly work the gasket lip from the inside all the way around the glass. Use a little soap { I use hand cleaner} to lubricate the rubber and glass but clean this up well before sealing. This will take several trips to get it to lip over the edge of the glass. Don't twist the bones when they are inserted between the glass and seal or you will take a chance of breaking the glass. Once the glass is resting in the gasket and before you lip the lock seal I use a VERY small amount of urethane sealer between the glass and seal then lock the rubber. I like to see a small amount of sealer ooze from between the glass and gasket. The excess cleans up nicely with a razor blade once the urethane has cured.
Now use the 3m bedding and glazing compound between the gasket and body.
Water test your work before installing the moldings

This is a great thread

Thanks to everyone who gave great suggestions and tips. As I am doing this part very soon, this thread has been a great resource.


Thanks again

I dry fit the back window in my roadrunner(68), the glass did not sit perfect on the flange around the opening. Does the ribbon caulk make up for that or do I have to try and get the glass to lay flat around the entire window. I have a small open area in one lower corner. It's about an heavy 1/8 inch right in the corner.

Not to hijack a thread, but I have a question. Would you guys reinstall a windsheild that has slight bubbles on the edge (behind the gasket)? I have really clean glass, but under the gasket there are slight bubbles. I was wondering if these travel over time. It would stink to have to take out the glass later on down the road.

The shop that installed the non-locking gasket in this 67 GTX that I'm restoring put the gasket on the glass first. They then placed rope around the gasket, laid the glass in position and pulled the rope all of the way around until the gasket was pulled over the pinch weld. It seems that they failed to put any sealant along the bottom and part of the way up the sides as was mentioned earlier in this thread. Now, I'm having to cut out a new gasket and then re-install the glass using a new gasket to try and correct this leakage problem. I want to make sure that this time everything goes right. Is this a proven method of installation or does the non locking style gasket install the same way that you just explained?
I confuse easily. It's an age thing.

The bubbles shouldn't be a problem but this is an indication the glass is old. Yes the bubbles may continue to creep out from the edge.
Check carefully for chips and pitting, these will give you more of a problem when installing and later on.
Price a new glass and decide what your pocket book can afford.
New glass is always nice to look through and makes the over all restoration of the car look that much better.

A person can use the rope method in some cases yours must be one of them. Its been a long time since I've done a 66-67 non lock type. On some of the gaskets the bottom basically lays on the bottom of the cowl so sitting the gasket first is best {for me any way}. If you haven't already removed the new glass why not try and seal up what you have with the urethane between the gasket and glass by having the tip of the tube cut very small and inject the sealer back as far as you can under the seal just take it slow and easy trying not to skip or miss any area. Then use the bedding and glazing product for the area between the body and gasket I've been able to apply this from the side of the car as well but the bottom really needs to be sealed before the glass and gasket is set in the body. You may be able to inject this under as well. Give it a try, what do you have to loose but a little time.
I always wear hand protection {nitrate gloves} when working with the urethane it's something you really don't want to get on yourself and don't be wearing your favorite T shirt! once this stuff gets on your cloths its on for ever!
Another thing that really help when working with the sealer is to heat the tubes up and not use them when below 70 degrees. I use my heat gun about a foot way from the tube until they are nice and warm

We actually had a second problem with this gasket. On the inside where the gasket lays against the dash, it's puckering up on the passenger side. I suppose that I could pump some butyl under it but that doesn't seem appropriate. We have a new gasket on the way that is supposed to be a much better gasket. I'm going to try that.

I will be doing this to front and rear, but on a 70 E-body,
whats the difference ?

There is no gasket on an E-body. The glass just drops in place once the bead of sealer is applied.

I'm correct in that statment right?