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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27258 04/03/07 10:55 AM 04/03/07 10:55 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	thanks Brentville, I'm going out to the HD now... can't wait to get this thing started. btw the '62 Galaxie's a sweet car

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27259 04/03/07 12:50 PM 04/03/07 12:50 PM
Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC R Radio Joe member
Radio Joe member R Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC	maybe this has been answered before but has anyone used spot putty ON TOP of the rustoleum? I am painting my Corvair- Black on top, Red on the sides. I have 5 layers of black on the car and have noticed some small spots that I missed. Can I apply some spot putty over the paint after wetsanding and then continue to paint over top of it? Thanks!!!! The black paint, even with the blemishes still looks AWESOME! www.joesclassiccarradio.com

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Radio Joe] #27260 04/03/07 01:36 PM 04/03/07 01:36 PM
Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 58 MD, USA V v8mirage member
v8mirage member V Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 58 MD, USA	I wouldn't want to try to get the filler to stick to the paint. My prep isn't what it could be, I guess that comes with experience, so when I have gotten to this point where I find a blemish that needs to be fixed I just strip the area back down to bare metal, fix it, and go back to painting. I usually find these spots in the first coat or 2 so it hasn't be too big of an issue. Gerbs Last edited by v8mirage; 04/03/07 02:34 PM.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Radio Joe] #27261 04/03/07 01:39 PM 04/03/07 01:39 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: maybe this has been answered before but has anyone used spot putty ON TOP of the rustoleum? I am painting my Corvair- Black on top, Red on the sides. I have 5 layers of black on the car and have noticed some small spots that I missed. Can I apply some spot putty over the paint after wetsanding and then continue to paint over top of it? Thanks!!!! The black paint, even with the blemishes still looks AWESOME! I just joined after reading both of the threads and have already started this on a daily driver. Glad to see most of issues I am having are being had by others, but this question has been plaguing me also. As it is my first paintjob, my prep working left a lot to be desired and now that I have a good feel for the process want to get it right too. Thanks for all the info!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27262 04/03/07 02:19 PM 04/03/07 02:19 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	i have found the topcoat boat paint (top side)as a clear coat that i can spray on. so will it work if i paint the car with rustolium then clear it with the top side?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Radio Joe] #27263 04/03/07 02:47 PM 04/03/07 02:47 PM
Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA Exit1965 master
Exit1965 master Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA	Quote: maybe this has been answered before but has anyone used spot putty ON TOP of the rustoleum? I am painting my Corvair- Black on top, Red on the sides. I have 5 layers of black on the car and have noticed some small spots that I missed. Can I apply some spot putty over the paint after wetsanding and then continue to paint over top of it? Spot putty isn't good unless it's catalyzed/hardenred.. it'll shrink on you. I have put skim coat (bondo mix + fiberglass resin) and full bondo mix over rustoleum, with no problems.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #27264 04/03/07 03:08 PM 04/03/07 03:08 PM
Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 58 MD, USA V v8mirage member
v8mirage member V Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 58 MD, USA	Quote: Quote: Spot putty isn't good unless it's catalyzed/hardenred.. it'll shrink on you. I have put skim coat (bondo mix + fiberglass resin) and full bondo mix over rustoleum, with no problems. That's a good point too. I haven't used spot putty since I found that out.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #27265 04/03/07 04:01 PM 04/03/07 04:01 PM
Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC R Radio Joe member
Radio Joe member R Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC	Thanks Exit- I figured you would know the answer with all the work you put into your car. I'll fix it with some regular mixed Bondo and be happy! Thanks www.joesclassiccarradio.com

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Radio Joe] #27266 04/03/07 05:03 PM 04/03/07 05:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA Exit1965 master
Exit1965 master Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA	Yep and when done with the bondo, you might consider spraying some similar color (to your final color) rustoleum (or primer) over the bondo so that the first few coats of final paint mix you're putting on doesn't soak into the bondo and the final color will cover quicker.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27267 04/04/07 12:11 AM 04/04/07 12:11 AM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Quote: i have found the topcoat boat paint (top side)as a clear coat that i can spray on. so will it work if i paint the car with rustolium then clear it with the top side? My initial thought is that you should not do it. I don't think there would be a problem with a polyurathane on top of an enamel... BUT I don't think it would get the maximum adhesion. The way polyurathane on top of polyurathane bonds or adheres is that the polymers actually form chains between the old polymer and the new polymer. Think of something like a DNA molecule or chain, that helical thing. The polymer chains are designed to interlock and that is how the polymer forms a strong bond or a unified bond between the layers. The polymer on top of the enamel cannot form a direct chemical bond between the two layers. So on that count along the adhesion or bonding is not as good. IF you are laying a polymer clear top coat on to a fully wetsanded enamel surface, you should be able to get a 'pretty good' bonding between the two chemicals. This is mainly because the wetsanding of of the enamel surface will provide a sufficiently rough surface for the polymer carrier to penetrate and grab a good grip. IF you are trying to lay a polymer clear top coat on to an non-wetsanded enamel surface, the enamel layer will not be so porous and accordingly the polymer coating on the surface will not get a solid grip. As you know... it takes the layers of paint a fair bit of time to fully dry out and reach maximum hardness. The carrier needs to fully evaporate from each layer or the trap layer will slow down its drying time and remain somewhat less than hard. I am not sure if a polymer coating on top of an enamel coating might trap some of the carrier that is still evaporating from the sublayers of enamel paint. The ugliest mess I have ever seen on the road was a car where the guy put acrylic floor polish on top of his faded enamel 'factory' paint job. It looked AMAZING when it was first done. BUT after 30 days the acrylic layer started peeling off the body like skin on a burn victim.... As you know or may know... my car was initially painted in Tremclad/Rustoleum 'Fire Red'. After six coats I switched over to Brightside 'Fire Red' and finished the car using the Brightside. In my case, there was about a 30 day delay between the switch from Tremclad/Rustoleum over to Brightside. I believe this allowed my six layers to fully cure and reach maximum hardness. SO... when I started putting the polymer paint on to the enamel paint, the question of carrier evaporation wasn't really a concern. SO... it is possible that a clear coat polymer might work on an enamel based paint job..... BUT I would follow this sequence : a ) finish the enamel paint job to a level that is acceptable to you. b ) do not do a final wet sand or waxing to that final enamel paint job. c ) wait 30 to 60 days d ) wetsand the enamel paintjob e ) apply the polymer clear coat. The idea here being to let the enamel fully harden, but not to contaminate it with a polishing and waxing. Wait the 30 to 60 days to let it fully harden and then do the wetsanding to prepare the surface for maximum adhesion between the original enamel paint and the new polymer coating. Dunno if this helps... BUT you should fall back to the original reason for NOT wanting to put a clear coat of paint over your enamel or polymer paint job. That being that you will not be able to REPAIR nicks and scratches as easily. With JUST a paint on the body, you will be able to repair scratches and nics, by just rubbing some alchohol on the area to be repaired ( to remove the waxing compounds that you use to get a shine ) and then just touch it up with your chosen paint color. Then you just re-compound the worked surface and polish it up again. Thereby getting an almost 100% color match where the repair was done. BUT if you have a clear coat sitting on top of your enamel or polymer paint... then I suspect you can figure out the increased difficulty of making an invisible repair that won't be so obvious to casual observers... . . Last edited by Marq; 04/04/07 12:14 AM.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Marq] #27268 04/04/07 12:46 AM 04/04/07 12:46 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	that is what i thought and i didnt buy it right a way. because the rustolium clear coat here is only sold in spray bombs and i want to buy quarts so i can spray it on...

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27269 04/04/07 05:16 AM 04/04/07 05:16 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Time for another update. First of all I've discovered something wonderful about wet sanding, 240 grit wet and dry sandpaper!!!! This stuff absolutley tears through orange peel and gives a nice flat surface in no time at all. And the best part is that if you sand carefully, it will give a finish that's good enough to paint straight over. I don't know how many hours of sanding the 240 has saved me/will save me but it's pretty close to being the best $1.60 that I've ever spent. Anyways, onto the painting. I've prepped my hardtop, the 'road' boot and the rear spoiler (not the same ones as I've posted about above) and today I painted the hardtop and the spoiler. The front of the spolier came out perfectly but the back has some runs in the paint that I didn't notice until it was too late. I am also pretty happy with how the hardtop turned out... I've also discovered that it's a lot more effective to take the pictures with some background light and no flash. There is still a bit more orange peel in the paint than I would ideally like but once it has recieved its final sanding and a good polish......

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27270 04/04/07 06:56 AM 04/04/07 06:56 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	looks good enough to me, although not as good as the other shots, or are they just closer? the roughest paper i've previously gone to is 400 so mayb i should head out and get some 240 lol sorry if i missed it but how thin are you doing it? just as thin as you can before it runs to much or only a bit? i'd love to see ur car in person some time, if there's a good event ur going to let me know

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27271 04/04/07 08:54 AM 04/04/07 08:54 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	The paint is thinned out with about 40% mineral spirits and even though it didn't come out as well as the race boot did, I'm still pretty happy with it. Looking at the first photo, there is a pretty obvious roller mark going from the front of the roof to the back which is about level with the bush in the background. Oh well, so much for no more roller marks.... I should be able to minimise it though with the final wetsanding and a good polish. I hope...

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #27272 04/04/07 12:09 PM 04/04/07 12:09 PM
Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA Exit1965 master
Exit1965 master Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA	Thanks for the tip on the sandpaper. The roughest I ever used on a coat was 600. I might get some 400 and some 240 to knock down my orange peel then roll on a couple thin layers.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #27273 04/04/07 12:32 PM 04/04/07 12:32 PM
Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC R Radio Joe member
Radio Joe member R Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC	Quote: Yep and when done with the bondo, you might consider spraying some similar color (to your final color) rustoleum (or primer) over the bondo so that the first few coats of final paint mix you're putting on doesn't soak into the bondo and the final color will cover quicker. A little update. As I posted above, my car had 5 layers on it already of Gloss black- thinned about 35-40%. I wetsanded the whole car with 600 grit and it took quite a while but I got it all smooth. After that I wiped it down with Mineral Spirits and looked for the blemishes.... After the wetsanding most were gone. I must've sanded off quite a bit of paint. There are a few spots left that are small chips- my plan, instead of the bondo is to use the paint as they arent that deep. I am waiting for the 6th coat to harden then I will "drip" a little paint only into the chips. once the drips harden, I will wetsand the whole car again with 1000 grit. that should take care of them. I thought the 5th layer looked good, but after the serious wetsanding and the 6th coat it looks REALLY good! even with some roller marks in it. I think I both under-estimated and over-etimated how this paint would work... I overestimated how much the paint would fill scratches and such but I under-estimated how shiny and smooth it would look on the car. Im really happy! About the roller marks- I have been rolling the paint on in one direction, pulling the roller back over the same strip, then moving onto the next strip- then when the panel is done, I go back over the entire panel using only the weight of the roller to smooth it out. It usually looks good when wet but after it dries I can see the roller "strips". Is this normal or am I using too much/ not enough paint? I'll post pics as soon as I find my Camera- its MIA again. Last edited by Radio Joe; 04/04/07 12:35 PM. www.joesclassiccarradio.com

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Radio Joe] #27274 04/04/07 01:43 PM 04/04/07 01:43 PM
Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC R Radio Joe member
Radio Joe member R Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 90 Laurens, SC	One more question while I am here. Im painting the car 2 tone- Black up top, red on the bottom, separated on a body ridge. currently I am using the Green 3M tape (Thats stuff is awesome- I dont trust anything else for painting) and am wondering, has anyone tried this tape on their car? My worry is if I take the tape off when I am done with the black and then tape directly onto the black so I can paint the red, when I remove the tape it will pull off or mark the black paint. I planned to let it harden in the sun for about a week before retaping for the second color- Does anyone think I will have a problem or am I worrying over nothing? Thanks again-Joe- www.joesclassiccarradio.com

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED [Re: Radio Joe] #27275 04/04/07 02:26 PM 04/04/07 02:26 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	how are you guys preparing a primered surface for paint? should i just use a tack cloth to remove any loose particles and dust from the primered surface, or should i also use acetone or maybe mineral spirits to wipe it down with? should i sand the primered surface smooth beforehand, as well? thanks for any input. _taF

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED #27276 04/04/07 02:48 PM 04/04/07 02:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca. 69DartGT moparts member
69DartGT moparts member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca.	I used mineral spirits followed by a tack cloth. If I had still had some grease and wax remover I would have used that. After sanding I used my shop air to blow most of the dust off.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED [Re: 69DartGT] #27277 04/04/07 04:34 PM 04/04/07 04:34 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: I used mineral spirits followed by a tack cloth. If I had still had some grease and wax remover I would have used that. After sanding I used my shop air to blow most of the dust off. should i bother even sanding tha primered surface at all? also, i was using another brand marine paint. i ended up switching to Brightside (since tha other place i ordered tha other brand from raised tha shipping another $10. i didn't want to pay $20 for s&h). click tha link to see what i have... grey primer vs wetsanded green i'm going with Brightside's Sea Green. should i primer my wetsanded green (previous brand) fender or should i primer it like i did with my a-pillar? thanks, _taF

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