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very close to mine

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There is no room for adjustment. Or did you bend the steering arms out?

Or should I say, Did Dave Christie and Herb Mc bend the steering arms out?

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Couple of important things to look at are, when you
have the suspension at curb height, is the rack level
with the steering arms... thats very important. You
also want the inner tie rod pivot to be in the same
plane as the inner lower control arm pivot... these
2 things minimize toe change during suspension travel

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EDIT
On the length, just cut it shorter and re thread it,
but do that later when you have everything in the
proper location, will the tie rods be on top or bottom
of the steering arms

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Hey jesse

racks way too low and those brakes and wheel adapters are scary.

As much as you have cut away already maybe go with some mustang II stuff CHEAP and lots of aftermarket brake options.

or do up a strut suspension cant tell from pictures how low your engine sits as far as how much you can raise the rack but as stated the rack must go up to have the right arc travel also if you swap spindles left to right you mess with the camber to get that back you have to move your lower or uper control arm mounting points .

its not a real quick bolt in to do it right not real hard but anyway you do it it wll take some time and fabing and meausuring.

unless you open the wallet for aftermarket bolt in suspension..

been real bussy but give me a call maybe i can walk you through it.

jim

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I never moved the spindles. Just swapped lower ball joints.

I have all the time in the world right now for fabbing and measuring. Moving the rack up is no problem.

Money is tight for anything but stock. I looked at the mustang II stuff your still looking at around $400-500 by the time your done. Unless I'm looking at the wrong stuff.

I really don't want to cut much more, because I will be interfering with the forward support rods in the front and torsion bars in the rear.

As far as an after market setup, NO WAY i can shovel out $3500-4000 for one right now.

If anyone has any parts to donate feel free to send them my way

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Mr P how did you cut and rethread your tie rods? The reason I ask is the dia of the rod is much too big to just run a die over. The only thing I can see is to remove the ball and socket from the rack and turn in a lathe.

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Jesse, they make a kit that has sleeves that slides over your steering arms on the rack, and it has hymes with it to bolt your steering arms to.

We did ours last year and here are a couple pictures.

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What is more important?

1. Having the rack level with the steering arms

or

2. Having the ball and socket at proper elevation and in line with lower control arm pivot.

It has to be one or the other. Looking at it, I can't do both.

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You really need to do both... either one can change
the toe curve during the travel

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Whar spindle's/ball joints do you have dodgeman ?

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