Pinto Duster steering part 2 UPDATED 3-27-09

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If i extended it at an angle steering would also become a problem it would only turn so far.

If you extend it straight out you lose nothing.









By extending the steering arms straight out, You Will lose something, that would be the Turning radius, witch isnt so great to start with on a rack swap.

That happend to be one of my first fixs after my first install. "Move the rack back"

But if you are going to mount the rack where it is. I'll give you your Tie breaker. Extend the arm forward so as not mess with the overall tierod length.

I wouldnt Weld it first either. I would Bolt in a test extension so that you would have another Adjustment point, in/out on your steering arm when plotting your Bump steer and Ackerman like Raff suggested you Do!

Then when you get those adjustments as good as they are going to get. Then you can weld your extensions on solid.


Another tip is to get your Caster dialed in first. As caster adjustments will move the outer tierod connection point at the steering arm up and down a significant amount. If your steering arm is extended by 2",s its extended movement is even worse.

This effects the parallel relationship between the tierod and the lower control arm mike

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A new system is probably out of the question right now.

I think i have an idea what you are going to say though.....

Strut System right?

EDIT

I would although think about it for the future. Maybe a project for next winter. Money is a little short right now and I would like to get my car going if not to the strip at least on the road so I can enjoy it.

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No I was thinking just a steering system, where your
rack arms would hook to a pair of pivot arms and
the other ends of the pivot arms would hook to your
tie rods... I wish I knew how to draw on this puter

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I understand what your saying and I see why you need a rear steer rack in the front. That would be great, you could have your tie rods at the exact angle and length. I think it would be a bit bulky though and take some engineering to get the angles, length of pivot arms, and proper geometry so it won't bind.

It's a good idea and sounds easy, but I think it would take someone with a engineering degree to design.

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Actually it was quite easy, I was going to use it
on my car and thats when I did the design work but
I ended up moving the engine rearward and upward
and didnt need to go to it..... but now with the
added 100 more HP I wish I would have used it so I
could lower my engine and maybe move it forward some

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I have been watching this post with interest. I put a rack in my Demon a couple of winters ago. It was a long and drawn out process for me that involved lots of re-do's. As Mr. P said remove the torsion bars and the shock so that the lower control arm can move up and down freely. Mock up the rack and attach it to ball joints. Build your self a guage that you can put beside the tire to do some measuring off. Reinstall the tire and then jack up the tire through the entire travel and measure both the front and rear of the tire off the fixture to see what is happening with the toe as the tire moves up and down. The positioning of the rack will effect the toe issues as will the distance above or below the ball joint the heims are located.

I would also attempt to get the attachment point for the rack to ball joint as close to the tire as possible. This will get you some ackerman and help when the car backs up.

I built my own lower ball joints - I was not comfortable heating and bending or welding on the stock ones - Just me!

My front end works okay after all the work. I was never able to eliminate the bump steer issue but I did limit it to the very top and the very bottom of the travel. I limited the front suspension both ways to compensate for it.

I now have about 3 - 4 inches of front end travel. If I had it to do again I think I would have installed struts. Same travel no bump steer issues. That may still happen!

Good Luck and I hope you have a beer fridge in the garage - Mine involved lots of head scratching and the odd frosty beverage

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Its all mocked up now. All my vice grips and c clamps are in use under my car Everything seems to look good.

Like you said, as I move it up and down I only really see noticeable bump steer in bottom inch and top inch of travel. I'm gonna try to see if I can correct it, but I doubt it.

How did you limit your suspension. That may be what I end up doing.

I try not to drink when working on my car, but this project here is gonna drive me to it

I'l usually slam a few down every night after I've exhausted my brain

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How did you limit your suspension. That may be what I end up doing.

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I welded and then tapped a plate on top of the LCA and added a Just Suspension bumper that I located at the parts store. It is relatively flat and has a threaded rod that screws onto the plate. I then stacked fender washers underneath it to fine tune the distance the suspension travels up when the car lands. On the top I built a bracket that is attached to the cage I have an industrial type I bolt installed that is connected to a chain. It is then attached to the upper control arm.

I have attempted to add a couple of pictures. I hope they work!

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R5P7, can you post some current pictures.

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Here ya go

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Now that's what I'm talk'in about.

Looking good, you ain't got that thing running yet?

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Ha ha ha not yet Give me another day or two

Still have to take all the steering components out and tig them

Then the final dreaded task.......... building headers to go around the steering coulmn



After that, it's all down hill. Putting the engine together and then back in the car