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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26238
11/06/06 10:48 PM
11/06/06 10:48 PM
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Texas
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texczech Offline
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I saw the mottled paint on my project on my first very diluted coat with m spirits. I did not h ave that problem when I covered that first thin coat with an undiluted coat. It seems when painting with a brush or roller in general, the first coat looks bad, and later coats makes it better. I even tried to blow on the bubbly paint with an air blower & a spray gun, but it seemed that some bubbles just stayed around. I tried a cheap foam brush for the fun of it, and it seemed that it had the least of the bad stuff(bubbles) that I got with the roller- I was surprised at that. I do like the gloss of the paint and the coverage. Since I like old pickups, an absolutely perfect job is not really needed, but something better than what I got would be very nice.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26239
11/06/06 11:54 PM
11/06/06 11:54 PM
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toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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Quote:

This is what black should look like!!! It doesn't matter how you apply paint, if you are going to wet sand, it is how well you polish and buff!!!!

Mike




AMEN!!!!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26240
11/07/06 12:01 AM
11/07/06 12:01 AM
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toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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Quote:

I read the entire thread and bought the ebay Fire Red Brightside.
I preped a test panel (Fiero rear deck lid - fiberglass).
DAed with 180 grit, washed and rolled on 10% dilute Brtsde.(Thinned w/Brushing fluid) Tremendous amount of bubbles. Tried rolling opposite direction - still many bubbles that took 15 - 20 minutes to pop - lots of peel. Temperature in shop 60 degrees.
2nd coat 10% - same bad bubbles so I tried the foam brush "tipping" trick. Much improved.
Wet sanded 400 grit 'til the o'peel gone.
5% dilute 3rd coat - tipped.
Straight 4th coat - tipped.
(At least 24 hrs between all coats.)
Wetsanded 800 grit to remove ridges left from tipping. WS 1500, then 2000.
Compounded and polished.

I have a very mottled gloss. I'm sure what I see are sanded through layers of paint.

Attached is a pic of the finish. (Taken without flash as flash washes it out.)

Ideas on what's wrong?




allthough i've never painted with the brightside, what you describe looks to me like over sanding/polishing. as for the bubbles, with tremclad at least it occurs from 2 things, 1. not mixing paint well, 2. rollering the paint on too fast.
There is a sweet spot you have to find with the paint, what works for me is to quickly spread the paint with the roller, then slowly with less pressure roll over and over the area until it's perfectly even, then by now the roller has almost no paint in it, and just using the weight of the roller, going over the paint just to pop bubbles, but quite honestly i've never really had a problem with bubbles after i discovered that i was'nt mixing the paint enough, that solved my problem, litterelly i mixed the paint 10 times longer then i "thought" i really needed to and the bubbles were a thing of the past. Also when using the roller with just it's own weight, you can tell when your ready when you glide the roller over the paint and it just goes over it without it feeling like theres wet paint, like silent gliding over the paint without marking or gripping into the paint, right when that happens, you have this 5 min window about 5 min after painting where bubbles can be elliminated, i also found that if you roll really fast, bubbles tend to be more of a problem, the key being work quick but don't rush.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: kenzo42] #26241
11/07/06 12:04 AM
11/07/06 12:04 AM
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Orange County, CA
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Quote:

Has anyone spilled gas on their paint? I know this happens to me all the time at the pump. I've heard that it will eat/soften the paint right up. Is there any truth to this?




I'm STILL trying to find a reason for why this happens... My car has a krylon ultra-flat black paintjob (don't ask...) and there's a streak of earl scheib blue (see, I told you.. previous owner) where the old krylon has been disolved.. I gotta find a solution to this before I slap paint on my car..

On a side not, a paper towel does wonders for keeping the splash of gas contained.. I'd like to figure out how to avoid the gas splash altogether, though.. I'll modify my gas filled tube if need be..

raj
67 beatercuda coupe

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: Jolly_Raj_R] #26242
11/07/06 02:55 AM
11/07/06 02:55 AM
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venice, ca
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Quote:

Quote:

Has anyone spilled gas on their paint? I know this happens to me all the time at the pump. I've heard that it will eat/soften the paint right up. Is there any truth to this?




I'm STILL trying to find a reason for why this happens... My car has a krylon ultra-flat black paintjob (don't ask...) and there's a streak of earl scheib blue (see, I told you.. previous owner) where the old krylon has been disolved.. I gotta find a solution to this before I slap paint on my car..

On a side not, a paper towel does wonders for keeping the splash of gas contained.. I'd like to figure out how to avoid the gas splash altogether, though.. I'll modify my gas filled tube if need be..

raj
67 beatercuda coupe




yes krylon will dissolve when in contact with gasoline. that's a problem i had with an old motorcycle i painted. evidently it's not a problem with rustoleum or brightside.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: admactanium] #26243
11/07/06 01:02 PM
11/07/06 01:02 PM
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Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965 Offline
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Hey all - I have a few runs in my brightside. I am not sure whether it's best to sand them down then put paint over them, or can they just be sanded down and polished..?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: Exit1965] #26244
11/07/06 03:28 PM
11/07/06 03:28 PM

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Sanding and polishing will be fine provided you don't go through the layer of paint around the runs and based on my recent experience, don't use a very agressive sand paper.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26245
11/07/06 06:30 PM
11/07/06 06:30 PM

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All,

Here are some shots after I have the entire car polished and buffed out.


Here it is with one proud young man behind the wheel!




Here is a shot straight down on the hood - nice and black!




One last shot for the other side



Thanks for all your help and I would HIGHLY recommend a Porter Cable 7424 or the Meguiar's equivalent - G100 for polishing!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: 69chargeryeehaa] #26246
11/07/06 09:25 PM
11/07/06 09:25 PM

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I'm quite sure the problem is sanding/polishing thru paint layers. One spot had a deep dot - probably a bubble that dried. I tried to sand it out w/800 and by the time it was gone I could see edges of paint layers.

So the question is - how do you take care of scratches or bubbles or other flaws short of a total recoat? I can't imagine ever being able to paint a whole panel without some sort of flaws. Are touch-ups possible?

Bob

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26247
11/07/06 10:16 PM
11/07/06 10:16 PM

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what i found at the local body shop supply store is a nub file it gets rid of runs and bubbles with out going through the paint layers. it is a 1 inch by 1 inch square and it costs around 15.00 but its worh it.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26248
11/07/06 10:44 PM
11/07/06 10:44 PM
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Bakersfield, CA
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Will Brightside cover up a multi-colored panel, to make it one uniform color? I have spots of filler all over my door.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: kenzo42] #26249
11/08/06 12:40 AM
11/08/06 12:40 AM
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Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:

Will Brightside cover up a multi-colored panel, to make it one uniform color? I have spots of filler all over my door.




You should put some primer on that filler, or it will suck up a significant amount of paint until it's 'sealed'. Primer will make the sealed surface so the brightside will go on like it will go on over an already painted surface. I've used rattlecan primer with no problems (granted, it hasn't been that long, but I see nothing at all different about the primered areas than the rustoleum coated areas). Primer it, wait a bit, put another primer coat, then wetsand it down so it's smooth then you're ready to paint.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26250
11/08/06 06:46 AM
11/08/06 06:46 AM
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venice, ca
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Quote:

I'm quite sure the problem is sanding/polishing thru paint layers. One spot had a deep dot - probably a bubble that dried. I tried to sand it out w/800 and by the time it was gone I could see edges of paint layers.

So the question is - how do you take care of scratches or bubbles or other flaws short of a total recoat? I can't imagine ever being able to paint a whole panel without some sort of flaws. Are touch-ups possible?

Bob



i think this is why the suggested method is to wetsand between every two coats. an alternative might be to wetsand after heavy coats and then do two thin layers on the top to cover the sandthroughs. what seems to be happening with a lot of you is that you're not actually wetsanding to a smooth surface. if you were, you shouldn't be sanding straight through your topcoats to get a smooth surface. it should take minimal sanding with 1500 or 2000grit to just take off the orange peel. if you're trying to sand down ruts and very high brush marks in order to polish as your final finish, that's not going to work too well because you're exposing different layers of paint.

in your case, what i'd recommend, if you can (and you're basically time committed now) is to follow the directions on wetsanding to a truly smooth finish such that there are no shiny spots, only matte spots. use a block to make sure you're not introducing your own waves or sanding in an orangepeel shape. when it's all done, then do two more thinned coats and let them self level. then do a wetsand of 2000gt to a matte finish and polish.

basically, treat your previous paintwork as a filling primer and your next two as your topcoat. once you have the metal protected, you're good. now it's just a matter of getting the best surface possible for your topcoats and then polishing those out.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26251
11/08/06 08:13 PM
11/08/06 08:13 PM
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The Black looks great!Questions... What paint did you use? Rustoleum, or what. What did you sand it with... grits etc... what style pad & maybe part number did you use with the Meguiars 83,80 & 21? Just curious & Thanks!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: texczech] #26252
11/08/06 09:34 PM
11/08/06 09:34 PM

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Quote:

The Black looks great!Questions... What paint did you use? Rustoleum, or what. What did you sand it with... grits etc... what style pad & maybe part number did you use with the Meguiars 83,80 & 21? Just curious & Thanks!




First of all Thanks!

I used Rustoleum Professional Gloss Black (1 gallon for about $25) and Odorless Mineral Spirits. I mixed it about 15-20%. The Meguiar's product I used a G100 (Porter Cable 7424) to put on the product as follows:

#83 with a W8006 Pad - work it in a 2x2 area for about 3-4 passes, then wipe off wet.

#80 with a W8006 Pad - work it in a 2x2 area for about 3-4 passes, then wipe off wet.

#21 with a W7006 Pad - spread it in a 2x2 area for about 1-2 passes, let dry, then I used a W9006 pad with a microfiber bonnet to take off the dryed product.

This made the polishing MUCH easier and this tool does a great job.

For alot of info on use of this tool and Meguiar's product check out meguiars.com forum area. Of course other similar products are out there and do a great job. I know that Aussie Driver mentioned the Poorboys product line and there are others (Sonus, Mothers, Klasse etc.). I have only used the Meguiar's and have had such great results I am hooked. Hope this helps. By the way a great place to get Meguiars product is autodetailingsolutions.com.

Mike

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26253
11/09/06 04:01 PM
11/09/06 04:01 PM

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Any of you guys have experience with Mini Spray HVLP guns (touch-up guns)? I was thinking that if I try and spray this stuff on, is it possible to use one of those touch up spray guns? I don't have a compressor to drive a larger gun, so I have to settle for the smaller one

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... #26254
11/09/06 04:22 PM
11/09/06 04:22 PM
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Southern, Ca.
69DartGT Offline
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I don't have a HVLP detailgun but there is no wy I could use my conventional touch up gun andd paint a very large part even.
Not sure that would work.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: 69DartGT] #26255
11/09/06 05:04 PM
11/09/06 05:04 PM

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Quote:

I don't have a HVLP detailgun but there is no wy I could use my conventional touch up gun andd paint a very large part even.
Not sure that would work.




Good to know. I guess that rules that out.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: 69DartGT] #26256
11/09/06 10:11 PM
11/09/06 10:11 PM
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Bakersfield, CA
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kenzo42 Offline
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Quote:

I don't have a HVLP detailgun but there is no wy I could use my conventional touch up gun andd paint a very large part even.
Not sure that would work.




I've heard it's too small of a spray. There would be alot of overlapping of wet lines = more potential for error. But I have seen a book where they did a whole bumper w/ it. Do you ask this b/c the CFM requirements are less?
If so, maybe an Astro LVLP or conventional gun if you're looking to spray w/ a small compressor.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44......... [Re: kenzo42] #26257
11/09/06 10:28 PM
11/09/06 10:28 PM
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Southern, Ca.
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Quote:

I've heard it's too small of a spray.



Exactly what the problem is with my coventional gun, years ago I was going to spray my Darts under hood area wityh my touch up gun the pattern is plain to small e.i. narrow, I switched to my old conventional gun.

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