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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
#25998
10/07/06 08:33 AM
10/07/06 08:33 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Any Canadians know where to buy Interlux Brightside paint? Seeing that everyone is having more glossy results using brightside, I thought I would change over to this method and return my tremclad to home depot.
I found some on Ebay, but I don't think they will ship to Canada.
You should be able to find the paint in any boater's supply store. You will need to dig out your phonebook and see if you can locate a marine supply place near you. If you have water and boats within a reasonable distance from your location, then it is almost guaranteed there is a store within range that is selling all the little doodads that boaters need.
If you are totally landlocked and there are no boater supply joints within a reasonable range, then you can check out "The Chandlery" in Ottawa Ontario at :
http://www.thechandleryonline.com/
They even have a 1 800 number 
They have been in business for over 25 years and are possibly one of the biggest online, phone and mail order boating suppliers that will ship ANYWHERE. But most importantly they are in Canada and will ship anywhere in Canada
I suspect they also will ship to the United States because their web site quotes prices in both US and Canadian dollars.
But the single most important reason why I am comfortable recommending them is that I have been in their store, seen their staff in action and I was thoroughly impressed by how professionally their operation is run... serving people in the store and in shipping stuff out to people who have placed orders over the phone and via the Internet.
Many places will not or can not ship paint across borders between Canada and the States. This is normally a problem because the 'shipping companies' don't want to transport 'flamable' goods. So if you are in Canada, then it is best to try to order from a company within our borders. But at least these folks at the Chandlery appear to have their act down pat as to doing cross border shipping and interprovincial shipping ( if you are not in Ontario ).
Here is the exact page on their web site where they list their Brightside paints :
http://www.thechandleryonline.com//product.asp?dept%5Fid=2706&pf%5Fid=BRIGHTSIDE
And here is the page on their web site where they list the Interlux "Brushing Liquid" product 333 ( which you use as the solvent for thinning the Brightside paint :
http://www.thechandleryonline.com//product.asp?dept%5Fid=2717&pf%5Fid=223%5FP19141
But I can't think of too many places in Canada where you won't be able to hunt down a marina or boater supply joint. East Coast, West Coast.. or just about any major population area where boaters will be found you will find some shop selling paint and boating supplies. Yup.. even in the Prairies, I have to assume there are folks with leisure or sporting boats.. and they need the paint, anti-fouling coatings etc.
Hope this info helps
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Last edited by Marq; 10/07/06 09:18 AM.
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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
[Re: Marq]
#25999
10/07/06 10:01 AM
10/07/06 10:01 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Thanks for all the help in hunting down this stuff! I thank you very much. I found a place near Downtown Toronto where I work and will be checking it out. Here's the address for those of you interested in a Downtown Toronto Location: http://www.gencomarine.com/store/groupdetail.cfm?CatID=6&SubCatID=74&ProdID=0&GroupID=95I have a question regarding the Brightside painting method. It seems that its hard to lay down with a roller without any orange peel or waves. Do you suggest cutting the Brightside more with mineral spirits to get a more even texture/layer? I've read the wikki outlining the steps on how to paint the car: http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Rollering+Interlux+Brightside+Polyurethane+PaintI noticed you cut it with 5-10% of #333. Do you believe cutting it more would work better in terms of getting a more smooth texture? Thanks.
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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
[Re: Exit1965]
#26000
10/07/06 10:14 AM
10/07/06 10:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
69DartGT
moparts member
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moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
In my Dart painting news, I've just about fixed that body line error that I saw after painting. I am planning on shooting the brightside through my HVLP gun. One guy I talked to at a marine place said it sprayed fine, and the gloss was great, and he said use two thin coats or it'll run.
Dave do me a favor when you fix the paint for spray in the old days we would stir the paint in the cup & lift the stir stick and count how long the paint took from a single line off the end to the start of drops that was about right a count of 5 for spraying old way how do the tell now?
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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
[Re: Exit1965]
#26002
10/07/06 11:20 AM
10/07/06 11:20 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Exit ... what are you going to use for thinning the Brightside before spraying?
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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
#26003
10/07/06 11:21 AM
10/07/06 11:21 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
I noticed you cut it with 5-10% of #333. Do you believe cutting it more would work better in terms of getting a more smooth texture?
I would not over cut the paint if rolling. Too much thinner may affect the way the paint works. We have had a previous discussion in the thread where the results of an over thinned roll job were not adhering or hardening as the paint normally adheres and hardens. If spraying.. well you have to dilute to the point where it will function properly with the spray gun. But overall I don't think that over thinning will result in a smoother or glossier finish. In fact overthinning may steal a bit of the gloss/shine.
In an extreme case of overthinning I believe that it may 'cloud' the final shine/gloss. This probably holds true for the Tremclad/Rustoleum paint as well.
The votes so far are mixed on Brightside straight from the can or cut 5% to 10% ( the manufacturers recommended limits )
For the most part of my project I was cutting the Brightside with about 5% to 10%... depending what looked good when I mixed it in my roller tray.
Some users have painted it 'straight from the can' and have had good results.
In retrospect, if I were to do it all again using the roller.. I would probably try laying down at least the first layer 'au natural'.. straight from the can with no dilution. My thought behind that is that this would give 'good' color coverage for that initial coat, it would provide me with a slightly thicker first layer to work out any imperfections in the body work and it would probably provide the maximum adhesion to the subsurface because it has not be diluted.
The subsequent layers could be thinned, so that you are building up your coats slowly and giving yourself lots of opportunity to correct any surface imperfections with your wetsanding of every second layer.
Now... when it comes to the final layer of paint, I am of mixed minds on what might work out better.
On one hand the final layer could be the 'thinned' paint. On the other hand I can see using a 'straight from the can' ( no dilution ) for the final layer.
IF you went with the 'straight from the can layer for your last coat, it will give you a thicker surface for doing the final wetsanding and compounding. You end up with a little extra weasle room to 'work' that final layer to its smoothest and shiniest.
BUT in support of a thinned layer for the final coat, I can argue that it will possibly self-level better ( hence be shinier ). This could reduce the amount of wetsanding and compounding that you will need to do to work up the shine of the last coat.
And unfortunately it is kind of hard to say which recipe to follow. That is because only YOU will know how your technique of applying the paint is going.
If things are going super with each additional coat of paint... it might be more advantageous to go with that final layer with a diluted paint.
But if you are having a bit of a problem with your rolling technique and not easily nailing a good result with each layer - or finding that you have to do a little extra wetsanding between every second coat, possibly the non-diluted paint for the final coat will give you that 'weasle room' you might need when you go to the wetsanding and compounding stage.
Funny thing is that for the 'boaters'... they just roll on two coats ( straight from the can ) and that seems to nail it. But I think the boaters have one advantage over our car bodys. The boats usually have an ulta smooth surface to begin with. It is no where near as rough as our car bodies are when we start laying down the paint. So in a way our first coat of Brightside is attempting to give us a self-leveled smooth layer. And our second or third coats is more like the boaters first or second coat of paint. Does that make sense ? I hope you can pick up the concept I was trying to convey.
Ultimately, I think the best results using the Brightside may go to the guys who are spraying it with their HVLP sprayers. This will eliminate the brush or roller marks, cut down on the wet sanding, and possibly give the shiniest end product ( hence requiring less or very little final wetsanding or compounding ).
Now the 'recipe' that I understand so far that works best for spraying the Brightside is to dilute it to the consistency specified by the spraying equipment. Then spray two very light mistings. Followed by two regular sprayings. This seems to have been the best pattern for spraying the car. I believe the idea behind the initial two light mistings is to provide a base that the subsequent sprayings can adhere to. This also cuts down greatly on the chance for runs - if you just went and laid on two regular sprayings. The other thought on the two light sprayings is that they help to give the paint job additional visual 'depth' which enhances the look of the final products gloss.
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Last edited by Marq; 10/07/06 11:33 AM.
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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
#26004
10/07/06 11:42 AM
10/07/06 11:42 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Thanks for all the help in hunting down this stuff! I thank you very much. I found a place near Downtown Toronto where I work and will be checking it out. Here's the address for those of you interested in a Downtown Toronto Location:
You should ask them if they will match the price at the Chandlery.... there is about a $7 difference per can. And with winter around the corner here in Ontario most of these boating marine shops tend to have their 'paint sales'.
Normally they hit their hardest for price in the spring when all the boaters are fixing and prettying up their boats for the summer. But the number of folks buying boat paint at this time of year is pretty slim.. so they try to unload their paint stock.
Ask... it can't hurt.
Naturally dickering on boat paints doesn't apply to our southern brothers who live with lovely warm climates year.
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Re: Profesional Results?
[Re: admactanium]
#26005
10/07/06 01:50 PM
10/07/06 01:50 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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admactanium: Seems like you **really** know your stuff when it comes to paint finishes.
Would you mind posting a recipe for a new person rubbing and polishing their first paint job? I want a long-lasting, beautiful job.
- What buffer do you recommend?
- What rubbing compound?
- What polishing compound?
- Which wax?
It would be great if you could give us a step-by-step breakdown on how to get a finish like you got on your motorcycle tank. That was truly amazing.
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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
#26006
10/07/06 01:55 PM
10/07/06 01:55 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
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I plan to thin with mineral spirits,and 69dartGT, yes I'll try that test you mentioned.
When I sprayed rustoleum through my HVLP gun, I thinned with mineral spirits, maybe 5-10% and it sprayed easy and layed down really well with the 1.5 or 1.5mm tip that came with the harbor freight gun. Plus it covered 95% with no runs. Where it didn't cover 100%, I just sprayed some more on top of it after a few minutes. Seemed to work well.
It was not a very thin mixture. I'll aim for similar with brightside which again should be 5-10%, maybe closer to 10% since brightside is thicker on its own than rustoleum and a little more thinner should promote self leveling.
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Re: Buying Interlux Brightside in Canada?
#26007
10/07/06 01:56 PM
10/07/06 01:56 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I did a lot of searching and here are the lowest prices I could find for Brightside. Unfortunately, I don't think they carry the Interlux thinners. http://www.boatersland.com/intpaintfin.html
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Wyl E Coyote]
#26009
10/07/06 09:17 PM
10/07/06 09:17 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Wyle: What kind of tints are you going to use to change the color? I was reading on the Brightside manufacturer's website that they recommended NOT using universal tints in the paint. They recommended mixing different colors of Brightside paint to get the final color.
My Jeep is off-white, with black bumpers. I'm planning to get a gallon of white, and a half-quart of black. I can use the black to tint the white to off-white, and use the rest of it on the bumpers.
Something to consider.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Wyl E Coyote]
#26011
10/07/06 10:17 PM
10/07/06 10:17 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Yeah ... we're practically neighbors. I had to drive to Spokane to pick up a remanufactured motor for my Jeep. I love montana, but I wish we had the same resources you guys do!!
About the paint, if you plan on mixing paints, you should be fine, as long as they are the same basic chemistry. Let us know how the hardness issue turns out.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#26012
10/07/06 11:11 PM
10/07/06 11:11 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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hi guys, i have been on top of this since it was started. Well i have sprayed rustolem (thinned with MS) it turned out pretty well (test piece) and i have just tried rolling it on. While the rolling isn't that bad, it deff turns out better sprayed! Less orange peel, less sanding, but the shine is the same. Also acetone makes it harder quicker,and i noticed the shine was alittle better, but it doesn't self level as well.. Thanks again for all this info and i fell very confident that this is a perfect paint job. Looks just as good as the single stage that i shot! (of course you can't get metallics in rustolem.) But you can get pearl powder of ebay has anyone tried it? im really tempeted to try it out! this would make this perfect! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...s_promot_widgetThanks Steve
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#26013
10/07/06 11:17 PM
10/07/06 11:17 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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well i just bought some..hahaha so ill guess ill try it out for everyone.
Steve
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Paint guns!
#26014
10/08/06 01:42 AM
10/08/06 01:42 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Thanks Marq for the in depth information. I haven't tried anything yet, but I plan to do a sample first to test out my technique and all. I know winter is coming, do you think it will be safe to apply the Brightside paint in temps between 10-15 degrees celcius? I'm shooting to do this in next 2 weeks or so. It seems that I am going away from the original recipe of using Tremclad with rollers to get a better finish. Now I'm interested in a spray gun, BUT I don't have a nice fancy compressor. I got one that pumps out 4.3Scfm @ 40psi and 3.7Scfm @ 90psi. It seems I'm stuck to using the very low grade general purpose spray guns such as this one: http://www.campbellhausfeld.net/webapp/w...9&langId=-1A question for anyone using a spray gun: Is using any type of spray gun be any better than rolling it on. A HLVP gun would be nice, but my dinky compressor cannot support them  I believe I read on earliar of people using spray guns for fencing, but I don't recall if they worked well or not. Thanks.
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Re: Profesional Results?
#26015
10/08/06 06:35 AM
10/08/06 06:35 AM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
venice, ca
admactanium
member
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member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
venice, ca
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Quote:
admactanium: Seems like you **really** know your stuff when it comes to paint finishes.
Would you mind posting a recipe for a new person rubbing and polishing their first paint job? I want a long-lasting, beautiful job.
- What buffer do you recommend?
- What rubbing compound?
- What polishing compound?
- Which wax?
It would be great if you could give us a step-by-step breakdown on how to get a finish like you got on your motorcycle tank. That was truly amazing.
yeah. let me try to write something up tomorrow night.
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Re: Paint guns!
#26016
10/08/06 07:33 AM
10/08/06 07:33 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I belive that any gun would turn out better if not atleast the same as rolling. It will be awhole bunch faster.
Steve
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Re: Paint guns!
#26017
10/08/06 08:36 AM
10/08/06 08:36 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Thanks Marq for the in depth information. I haven't tried anything yet, but I plan to do a sample first to test out my technique and all. I know winter is coming, do you think it will be safe to apply the Brightside paint in temps between 10-15 degrees celcius? I'm shooting to do this in next 2 weeks or so.
The paint manufacturer does give some 'recommended' enviromental temperature ranges for their product and recommended temperature range for the object that is being painted.
The recommended temperature ranges are based on two factors... what is the best temperature range for the paint to cure or harden ( the evaporant or carrier in the paint to evaporate at ) and the best temperature range to ensure adhesion of the paint to the object being painted.
The cooler the temperatures will result in slower curing and evaporation of the carrier. This is going to mean that you will have to wait longer between coats. What might have been 15 hours might go to waiting 48 hours or maybe even longer between coats.
The only positive thing about working in the cooler temperatures is that the paint will have a lot more time to self level as it is not rushing due to heat to cure. And maybe there will be a lot less BUGS to deal with in the cooler temperatures.
The adhesion factor is the one that would concern me the most. However, if you fall back to one of the messages that was posted by Charger... where he provided pictures on this site of his little Volks sitting in a SNOW BOUND garage, he mentioned that paint job had been rolled in the winter in his unheated garage. So if the Tremclad can be rolled in freezing temperatures than I assume the Brightside can also. The 10 to 18 degree range might almost be luxurious compared to working in snow type temperatures.
I am not so sure about spraying in the colder temperatures. As it strikes me that rolling on a wet liquid as compared to some vapor travelling through the air might have different reactions to the cooler temps.
The only thing I can say with any degree of absolute certainty is that you will have to wait longer between re-coats.
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