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HEY Folks... I am not sure if some one else had found this web site yet, But here is yet another Marine Paint Specialist - Blue Water. They seem to have some bright colors including Orange .... I have seem to found some more blues for myself ...

http://store.nationalpaintsupply.net/blwapoto.html

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Basically from what I've noticed, it boils down to this. If I rolled it, I can still dent it with my fingernail but it does not come all the way off.

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To Marq or others who have experience with auto painting--after my first coat of Brightside on my Jeep, it felt real smooth. After the second coat, I felt and saw these little, bitty specks that I figured were bubbles that I just overlooked and did not brush out. So, yesterday I did my third coat, and it seems that those specks are on there again. I am pretty confident that they are not bubbles. So, what are they? My guess would be dust particles, or something else from the ambient conditions? What do you guys think, and what do I do to avoid them? My garage really is not very clean, and wetting the floor is not doable. My guess is that I am stuck with them. If I do not sand until after the final coat (when I would use that ultra fine grit paste or whatever), will I be okay?

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Ok... I love a good detective mystery... and the case of the mysterious flecks has my brain trying to kick into gear.

I do know... that during the course of my painting I went through a fair number of those high density 4" foam rollers. I was mostly using the ones I had purchased at the Home Depot.

We were buying 4" paint roller trays at the local dollar store ( where they sell them for 2 trays for a bucks ) and I decided to buy two packs of the 'el cheapo' 4" high density foam rollers that they were selling. What I noticed was that the 'el cheapo' white high density foam rollers were slowly...minutely.. disintegrating during the course of the paint job. By the end of the paint job the flecks coming off the disintegrating foam rollers was quite obvious.

At that point I just stopped using those el cheapo 'dollar store' 4" high density foam rollers and from then on I stuck to the slightly more expensive Home Depot ones. Which I did not have any problems of disintergration or chemical degradation of the foam.

Now... as to dust in the air... I also experienced a bit of a problem like that. My garage is located within 30 feet of the street. There is construction going on across the street. Dust is always in the air here. And at first when I was leaving the garage door open while painting the amount of dust creeping into the garage and landing on the paint job was detectable.

So my solution to the dust problem was to CLOSE the garage door ( that was obvious eh? ) and to not begin painting until the car had sat unmolested for almost a full day. This gave whatever dust was in the garage plenty of time to settle and drop out of the air. NEXT and most important.. when I did go into the garage to begin the next coating of paint I would do two things religiously :

a ) take a 'tack cloth' and wipe the entire body of the car down. This removed any dust that may have fallen down on to the car or had been electrostatically attacted to the side panels. Just for clarification for anyone who does not know what a 'tack cloth is'... it is a cheesecloth type thing that has a sticky wax like coating on it. When you rub it over a car, television screen, computer monitor, or furniture etc... it picks up all the dust and small particles on that surface. You can buy 'tack cloths' at Home Depot, Loews, NAPA and just about any place that sells automotive or painting supplies. At NAPA I got my best price... 25 sheets in a box for $25. At Home Depot they were charging about $1.49 per sheet. A TACK CLOTH IS NOT SIMPLY some new rag from one of those cheaper by the pound bag of painter rags.

b ) then I would wipe the car down with a cloth ( LINT FREE ) that was thinly wetted with mineral spirits. It is important that it be a LINT FREE cloth and not simply some new rag from one of those cheaper by the pound bag of painter rags.

At this point the body was about as dust free as it could be in that environment and I could begin painting the next coat.

Now... one thing about flecks of dust or even bug feet that might land on the surface of the wet paint... the good news is that they can only penetrate a microscopic layer into the skin of the drying paint. They just don't have the physical weight to bury themselves too deep into the tension of the wet or drying paint. It's like those water bugs that skim across on top of the water.... where the tension of the water's surface is sufficient that the weight of the water bug can't break that surface tension. That being said... dust flecks should be removal when you hit the wetsanding stage, or the compounding stage or the polishing stage.

Now here is an odd thought. Unfortunately I have dandruff. Don't blame me. Don't blame my shampoos... I just have dry skin on my scalp. At first I was not wearing a hat while painting. But I noticed once per layer a HAIR would land on the paint. So I began wearing my hat to ensure that no more hairs would fall down on the wet paint or while I was rolling the paint. It not only stopped stray hairs from getting in my work.. but it also brought a complete end to dandruff landing on the paint.

It's pretty bad when you think about it... but a hat or one of those nylon mesh hair things used by the food industry might be essential during the course of our paint jobs. It's bad enough to be seen rolling out paint with rollers... but to have to wear a food industry mesh cover over our heads... hahhahha yikes.

But think for a moment about the proessional shop paints when they step into their painting booth. In the classy and higher quality shops the guy walks into the paint booth in a throw-away paper coverall... just to ensure that he is not bringing any contaminnts into the booth with him...

Errrmmmmm... hope these rambling thoughts help somehow. It is hard to diagnose your specific flecks without actually being there and putting the eyeballs on them

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HEY Folks... I am not sure if some one else had found this web site yet, But here is yet another Marine Paint Specialist - Blue Water. They seem to have some bright colors including Orange .... I have seem to found some more blues for myself ...

http://store.nationalpaintsupply.net/blwapoto.html

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Excellent find! Not much in the green range, but the red/orange range is MUCH better. Thanks!

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Excellent find! Not much in the green range, but the red/orange range is MUCH better. Thanks!

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So what you're seeing that the paint itself is polishing well but you haven't levelled the surface of your paint. go ahead and use a harder rubber sanding block and try to stay off the edges of the block. what you can do while wetsanding is to have a squeegee of some sort and just swipe dry a section every now and then. what you should see with the use of a block is spots of dull (matte) finish and spots of shiny finish. so you're abrading away the bumps and brushmarks and NOT abrading the low spots (valleys) of the bumps.

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This has been my problem, and I am going to try this solution. Is it possible to use a random-orbital 1/4-cut type sander to do the wetsanding? It has a hard enough pad on it to do the same thing I bet.

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After reading this thread, I get the following impressions about paint selection:

BEST
- Brightside
- Tremclad
- Rustoleum "Professional"
- Rustoleum "Stops Rust"
WORST

Sound about right?

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If I could offer a suggestion regarding the problems some folks have in keeping dust off their fresh coats I've read on other sites where they suggest grounding the vehicle to prevent it from attracting dust via static charge. A wire bolted to the frame and run to a copper pipe driven into the ground would probably work nicely for this.

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Exit, is that Brightside white or off-white?

Marq or anyone else that has experience w/ the Interlux Brightside sample color shade guide. Is the paint an exact match as the guide?

Thanks.

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