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Also, you keep saying that you can't put regular car paint over rustoleum, but 69charger has said that he has first hand experience painting over it (OK, Tremclad) with no problems. Is your experience first hand or hearsay?

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...a guide coat under your primer...

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...a guide coat under your primer...

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guide coat goes over the primer not under...

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A guide coat can go anywhere, it's used to find high spots and low spots. You can put a guide coat right over pink bondo if you want, it serves the same purpose when you're doing bodywork as long as you're putting a contrasting color on.

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To answer some of what has been brought up so far: yes, I did use Rustoleum Pro. I started a test panel with another brand of enamel, but since I wasn't seeing the results I switched to Rustoleum. That is what I painted the car with.

The discoloration has absolutely nothing to do with the prep. The turning is occuring in several places on several different pieces that were sanded and prepped well enough for the PPG that went on later...It's funny that Exit mentioned in a previous post that Krylon's 'Ivory White' color is a perfect match to Rustoleum's 'Gloss White'...it is but 'Ivory White' is an off white canvas color. That's what my 'Gloss White' now looks like...

As for painting over Rustoleum, if you can scuff it and it powders up, fine. But, if you scuff and the Rustoleum rips and/or pulls you can not just paint over that. The paint must feather or it will show through the upper layers...the Rustoleum will not feather, it tears like latex house paint.

If you guys are happy with what you have, that's fine, but the 'success' storys that I have seen look dull, orange peely, etc. Everyone seems to be just one or two more steps away from that elusive paint job...All i'm reading here are mainly posters talking about what they're gonna do...If someone has an old beater that's ten colors of primer, wants to get it all one color and isn't extremely picky...this is an option if they know what they're getting. If you're looking for a straight, clean paint job at least as good as the average car at the cruise in, this may not be for you...

Exit, you have been working on yours for months...are you happy with it? is it a show car finish? if you include all the hours and material you've put into it, is it still a 50 dollar paint job?

...I just think people reading these postings should hear both sides of the story...Chuck

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I didn't say that krylon ivory white was a match to gloss white, I said it was a match to canvas white which is the rustoleum I'm using.

Yes, i've been working at a very languid pace on my car for months. Way longer than it should have taken, but I have been both busy and lazy during that time. It's certainly not a $50 paint job anymore, and no there isn't a show car shine, but considering the alternatives I am very glad I did what I did. For one thing, I can see where I goofed up the bodywork that I would have missed if I had just taken it in to be painted with no bodywork, for another, I am not exposing myself to isos that come with auto paint, lastly I know it's easy to repaint or touch up.

The most important thing is, without becoming excited about this technique and trying it, I would probably still be dilly dallying on the bodywork because of the uncertaintly of where I'm going to have it painted and what it's going to cost me. This technique makes it easily doable, and now I can move on to other parts of the car that we all do ourselves like brakes, electrical, engine and stuff.



And now there's even more reason to think that I could paint a single stage over it if I ever wanted to.

I agree Chuck people should see both sides, but they should not be dissuaded from trying it based on ONE PERSON's opinion/experience (you) that it cannot be painted over, and that it peels off like latex. I don't think those are true if the paint is applied as 69charger and others have described the process.

Here's some + and - with respect to the paint from my point of view.

Negatives:
1) Probably no "show quality" shine
2) May be scratchable for some time as it cures
3) can involve many hours of labor

Positives:
1) Would fit right in on an old car
2) Easy to do
3) Cheap
4) Easy to repair
5) Not irreversible - if you don't like it, spray over it
6) Relatively safe compared to spraying isocyanites
7) no paint booth or special tools required
8) can achieve a decent shine
If I had a newer car (95+ maybe), I would probably go with a paint that had more shine since a newer car with a non shiny paint job could look out of place.

I don't however, I have a '67 dodge which rolled out of the factory with less shine than I'll have with this paint. So for me, less shine than a shiny new car is acceptable given the positives.

One more point that I've said before - both the red paint and the white paint do not peel as you are describing, they powder when sanding. I had to do several spots with bondo once I put paint over them and saw the mistakes, and it was VERY easy to sand through the rustoleum in that it powdered up and did not load up the paper. Maybe you got a bad batch of paint or something since your experience seems to differ from a few others here who have tried it.

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So I have been reading this thread for awhile and thought I would chime in. I read the first 30 pages on the first thread, and about 20 from here. Im but one man!

I have a nissan 240sx that came white from the factory. Ive been planning on painting the car white but the roof black. Ive done some painting on my car and thought I would post some findings.
Personally I am not a big fan of the idea of rolling it on, to me it seemed like it would be alot more work so I decided to spray from a gravity fed gun. The amount of time taping is easily comparable to 1 wetsanding run....

Ive done it a few times now. First time I hadnt read the ENTIRE around and went gung ho, I painted with laquor thinner made with mineral spirits, not pure. Paint went on fine, was glossy and I was fairly impressed with the results.... until the paper blew over on top of my job :-(
After it dried I wetsanded it down, The sanding was fine a few hours afterwards, but when I went to complete it a few days later I noticed some of the paint would roll off into little balls since it hadnt dried fully. No its not an adhesion problem because the top was a thick skin, and the bottom layer was fully adhered, there was just softer paint in the middle. I was able to very carefully and lightly sand it down with a less aggressive piece of paper. I shot a second time over that only this time I cut it with acetone. I can tell you cutting it with acetone definitely made a difference in the gloss/clarity. It also seems to be hardening better/quicker. I would dare to say I compare this to a bc/cc job looking at it from the side. It looks virtually unchanged from wet to dry. Perhaps actually cutting with acetone is the way to go? (hell its what they write on the [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] can)
Maybe other things can be done for you roller guys to increase workable time? perhaps applying it in a cold environment then heating the garage and cooking it on?

My end results are fairly impressive, I did this in a real autobody shop (father runs one) but I wanted to do it on my own, my own bill, my own materials because it can rack up quick... and Im selling the car. however I did run into 1 problem. When putting some body filler on a small ding... I wetsanded it smooth, then applied a light coat of sealer before painting and I had some seriously screwed up fish eye. Looked like a brain on my roof. I wanna say in retrospect it was stupidity with wetsanding the body filler but it might have been a reaction to the sealer. My surfaces so far have all been cleaned with legit prep solvent, not mineral spirits or anything else. So far so good though!

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If cutting it with acetone gives it more of a shine, then I'm willing to take that route. Has anyone used acetone without any ill effects?

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...a guide coat under your primer...

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guide coat goes over the primer not under...

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I think this is a matter of preference, the guy teaching the auto body class has mentioned guide coats under primer several times now so I suppose this is his preferred way of doing it.

For the record I scrapped the roller plans, mainly because I got into an auto body class and have access to the facilities to spray it, so spray it shall be.

The parts I have painted looked pretty good and they cured to a hard and very durable finish, I wouldn't hesitate to use this technique on another old car or a beater of any age, no probably wouldn't try it on a show car, but I'm not building show cars here just something to drive

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...the guy teaching the auto body class has mentioned guide coats under primer several times now so I suppose this is his preferred way of doing it...

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Guide coats under primer?? I don't really see the purpose...guide coats are usually some type of cheap spray paint sprayed on top of primer, bondo or whatever then sanded off to show high and/or low spots in the body work...that's why it's called 'guide' coat, it's used to guide the rest of the body work. If it's under the primer or bondo or whatever, you wouldn't be able to see it much less sand it off ...

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...the guy teaching the auto body class has mentioned guide coats under primer several times now so I suppose this is his preferred way of doing it...

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Guide coats under primer?? I don't really see the purpose...guide coats are usually some type of cheap spray paint sprayed on top of primer, bondo or whatever then sanded off to show high and/or low spots in the body work...that's why it's called 'guide' coat, it's used to guide the rest of the body work. If it's under the primer or bondo or whatever, you wouldn't be able to see it much less sand it off ...

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