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can you only use the marine and rust/trem stuff on fiberglass???

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Well this is my first post. After buying a 2006 Charger R/T with R/T package, I saw this thread. Great timing since I am restoring a 1970 Porsche and don't want to spend the $$$ on a .... yada yada yada...
I have smoothed out and primed the car; now ready for rollin.

I have purchased Blue Marine 1 Part Poly urethane in Black online. One gallon with one quart of brushing liquid/solvent delivered to my door for $80 total-not bad. has the same qualities as the Brightside. see it here:
Blue Water Marine

Ordered the rollers and handles from here:
Ebay Item: 130006642627
Roller frame plus 10 foam rollers for 9 bucks-beat that!

My plan is to do the first coat with 5% thinned this weekend and let it sit for a week. Then block wetsand with 400, then with 800. Do coat 2 at 5% thinned, wetsand with 1000, coat 3 full strength, wetsand with 1500, 2000, 3000 Then polish.

Hope it all works out. Thanks to all here for the research, time and dedication for us CSOBs!

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nice 914, you should really explore the longnitidunals, and the rear suspension console under the famous battery location, and the sail pannels under the vinyl, front trunk, basically anywhere where there's metal 914's rust just looking at them, if your quiet you can watch them rust!!!! take off the lower outer sils NOW, and inspect for rust, replace metal before you go thru the body work. what motor you got>? 1.7, 1.8, 2.0, or 2.7 (914-6)?

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Thanks. Porsche has a 2.0 four. Minimal rust in the "hell holes". Went through it already. Lots of stuff under the primer.

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sweet, i built a 75 914 with a 1.8L that i bought off the original owner with 50K MI. it was a fun car, all the normal 914 rot stuff, they handle like a go-cart. what ever you do, don't lift off the gas when your pushing it really hard thru a turn, if it starts to let or understeer, mash the gas, or you'll be punished. i still have a spare set of guages, and the center cluster, plus steering wheel i plan to put in my 74 beetle.

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wow, so theres no hope using metal armour (the tremco stuff)? i priced the brightside over here, its $120 for 4 litres (gallon) while the metal armour is $60.

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Just want to say "Thank's again" to 69chargerYeehaa for sharing this method of painting with all of us.
It's finally official, the neighbours came by and were drooling over the truck today.
I'm off to Moparfest for the weekend, and I'll scan a couple of pics next week, using a decent 35mm camera this time.
Happy rolling!!

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your welcome.

i should be heading up to moparfest too, on sat, plan to hit the swap meet, not sure if i'll drive the charger due to retardrd gas consumption and i'm not looking to get judged, so i could save the $35 entry fee, and buy more parts , plus i'm not a big "show" kind-a guy, but i do like taking a quick peek at all the cars, and espically hitting the swap parts section. maybe i'll see you there, you driving your truck?

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Sounds like a good deal, maybe you'll wind up in the autobody business thru it all. Be sure and post the results for us when it's all finished.
Have fun, and don't drop one of those high priced paint guns.

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wow, so theres no hope using metal armour (the tremco stuff)? i priced the brightside over here, its $120 for 4 litres (gallon) while the metal armour is $60.

any ideas why the metal armour didnt work? its essentially the same stuff as tremclad isnt it? its meant to be used on the same sort of thing anyway.

i seem to remember some other aussie pioneers trying wattyl killrust and white knight metal guard, but those two are epoxy enamels, as opposed to the alkyd enamels like tremclad. would using either of the epoxy enamels have any dire effects that i should know about?

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Opening a restoration type shop is a dream of mine, I love cars and have all my life, just never had time to learn jack about them since I was always too busy "making a living" but now I'm in a place where I can spend some time learning and if I can find a nice place to paint somewhere it's cheap to rent (out in the county/boonies) I just may open up shop.

EVERY body shop I've visited was busy, up to their eyeballs in work, most won't even LOOK at a restoration project because insurance work is so plentiful and lucrative. So I figure, finish the truck, buy another project, when THAT project is finished and drivable, sell the last project, buy new project, rinse/repeat, try and at least break even on each one as I build the skills. Drive the last project while working on the new project, when there is two completed vehicles, put 'em both up for sale, whichever sells first, keep the other to drive and start a new project.

If people want to pay to have their stuff done while I'm at it, then rock on, if I get enough business, then I can always try and hire some help. I can put my current business's office in the garage too and it'll all be business expenses anyway.

I know a guy who will probably work for me part time who's been doing salvage restorations and the last few years, show restorations and he'd work cheap, but he's just unreliable as hell (don't rely on him to show up, when he does, cool, when he don't, just don't get all bent outta shape).

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guys i dont mean to ask, but ,y black lincoln has turned out ok, but im thinkin of changing it to red (i like cars that stand out) any pics of what red looks like finished? thanks a ton fellas!

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Here is a picture of my car when it was safety red. Seems you and I have different taste, I prefer colors that don't stand out (but a snarling big block in the same car, I like). There is also a picture of a buggy somewhere back a ways that someone (sorry forgot the name) painted safety red.

And of course Marq's mustang is red.

Regal red is a color I prefer over the orangey reds though. if i ever went back to a red I'd go with the more subtle regal red.



Hmm, I kind of miss the red now that I see it. I don't think I'll be changing the color anytime soon though.

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in spray paint news, I got through painting under the hood with the rustoleum mixed into that harbor freight reusable spray can, but for some reason, I can't get that spray can to work well anymore. It just spits out a stream, and I have cleaned everything I can reach with acetone.

So now that the engine bay is out of the way, I'm going to use the Krylon spray can "ivory white" for the door and trunk jambs, since they dont' need to be pretty or shiney or especially durable, just the same color. And the color is darn near a perfect match and it dries within about 15 minutes. I'm going to really try to finish up the painting this weekend.