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...I know the paint still scratches (yep, with my fingernail) - not that it scratches all the way off, but it leaves a scratch...

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Exit...get ready for a long wait! I've been in the process of preparing my car for a 'real' paint job. This roll-on stuff will not feather like other auto paint. When I try to sand, the Rustoleum peels!! My paint has been on for months - not dry yet...That sucks...

Another thing i've noticed...this thread has been going on forever...you'd think we'd have a bunch of success stories by now?!? Mine was a bomb...Chuck

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sucess storie(s):

(bug pic taken 3 weeks ago with my new wheels, paint is 6+yrs old and counting):




Note to exit - honestly i haven't tried to scratch my paint off with my nail after painting, but i know it would if i tried, i did notice that when re-assembling the car the paint would "dent" like it was still soft. my advice, let a few months go by, it WILL be rock hard, i'd put $ on it, cut and polish the paint when it's fresh, the reason why i advise the turtle wax is because it is such a fine (3000+ grit) compound, it does'nt scratch the paint. This paint takes LONG to fully cure, BUT when dry i'm telling you it's got to be one of the toughest paints around.

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IIRC you're working on a hood ... if you da'd the paint off, you might want to hit it real quick with the same grit as the DA, but with a long-ish block. The DA takes off material very unevenly on flat surfaces, and is probably the source of your waves. Back when my dad and I were doing his 'vette over in the early 90s, we were doing bodywork, prime, and da'ing the poop out of it, we couldn't get a level surface until an old timer came over and laughed at us ... "da's are for shaping, guys ... you need to put those things down and start blocking the car out!"

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Has anyone (Marq?) wetsanded then polished the brightside yet?

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I have not yet begun the final wetsand/polish on my car, but I know the paint still scratches (yep, with my fingernail) - not that it scratches all the way off, but it leaves a scratch.

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Funny thing I've noticed is that when I've used rustoleum in spray cans, and even when I mixed some spray together in my refillable spray can, the paint has dried VERY hard in a matter of days or a week. I can't leave indentations in it with my fingernails like I can with the rolled on stuff.

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Anyone know a good way to dye a plush cloth interior? The sun faded parts of the front interior from grey to blue.

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Anyone know a good way to dye a plush cloth interior? The sun faded parts of the front interior from grey to blue.

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I know at our Canadian Tire store they sell an aerosol spray bomb for 'textiles' in the automotive section. They have it sittin on the shelves right next to the spray bombs for changing the color or refreshing the color of vinyl.

Another way to do the color change would cost a few bucks but guarantee a more professional look. In Ottawa we have a company that has equipment for changing the color of 'CARPETS'. Visually it just looks like they are steam cleaning the carpet... but they use a dye in their system that changes the color of the carpet. Possibly if you had one of the 'carpet dyers' in your area, they could do a car interior with one of their hand held units.

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That seems odd, I would of assumed it shouldn't scratch, me and you are pretty much in the same weather and my friends car was almost fully dry and scratch test proof after a few days. Maybe since we were putting it on a bit thicker, who knows.

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I hope that others can get the results I have.

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How do those stripes look close up? What'd you use just blue painter's tape, or regular masking tape or what?

I'm wanting to two-tone my truck and I'm worried I might not be able to pull off the edges properly to make it look good so hints and suggestions are what I'm after

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A new car with a factory paint job can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. Cars that have factory paint jobs are cured at much higher temperatures, sometimes as high as 300 degrees in special baking ovens. At a factory level, the car goes through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the car and it's fresh paint to such high temperatures. These high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level insures the paint is fully cured by the time the car is completely assembled.

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And even with this ulta-hot baking... the cars are then put in storage... for weeks and months. So it is impossible to compare a 300 degree baked paint job against a paint shop paint job or a 'rolled on' and baked in the sun paint job.


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New cars in storage in South Korea heading for the USA. And how long do they sit in the hold of the ship while being transported. And how long do they sit in the US holding compounds before being forwarded to the dealers. That's a lot of curing time I would say...

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At the southside of the town of Corby (UK) there are enormous car storage areas with thousands of vahicles. Baking in the sun... waiting... waiting... for when they will be finally sent on to a car dealers lot... where they will continue to sit in the sun until someone buys them...


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New cars in storage in Newark New Jersey (USA) waiting to be forwarded to dealers. Fresh from the holding lots at the car manufacturers... where they originally sat and baked in the sun.. and now sitting in this compound where they sit and cure... while waiting... waiting.. to be sent on to the car dealer lots... where they will continue to sit in the sun...

Some of those cars have sat at 'holding compounds' FOR MONTHS prior to being shipped to the dealer lots. Those holding compounds are OUTSIDE in the sun. So these cars have been painted and left to sit for months prior to you getting a chance to dig your finger nails into their paint.... That paint has had time to CURE.

Now.. let's pop the delusional bubble about the paint jobs that have been applied by the professional paint shops - baked or not baked. I do not think there is one body shop in the world that would advise their customer 'that its ok to take the car through a car wash for the first or second month'. They normally advise their customers to NOT take the car through a car wash and to ONLY WASH THE CAR with a bucket of water, very mild auto specific soap, very soft chamois cloth or some other soft cloth. The bottom line is that the freshly painted car from the shop has SOFT PAINT that can be scratched, marred or even have impressions pushed into it because it TAKES TIME FOR IT TO FULLY CURE. Want to be a nasty [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean]... then go to a paint shop and casually try to scratch the paint on one of their freshly painted cars. If you don't get killed by the shop owner.. you may live to tell exactly how soft the professional paint job really is.

And what does the world authority Meguiars have to say on paint shop paint jobs ???

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After-market paint finishes however, are cured at a much lower temperature to ensure the method of baking or heating the paint doesn't melt non-metal components such as wiring and vinyl. For this reason, it's best to follow the specific paint manufactures recommendations for care and maintenance of fresh paint. Most paint manufactures that supply paint to the refinish industry recommend that you allow anywhere from 30 to 90 days curing time after the paint is applied before you apply the first application of wax.

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When comparing the hardness of the Tremclad/Rustoleum or Brightside paints against 'OTHER' paint jobs... I hope people will be able to keep things in better perspective and compare APPLES TO APPLES - rather than APPLES TO ORANGES.

The reality of these 'roller' paint jobs is that their relative 'HARDNESS' is probably THE VERY SAME when you are comparing the same time space of each of those processes in its curing.

And I don't think it is realistic to compare a paint job that has only cured for one week, one month or even a couple of months... against a car's finish that is six months old or many years old.

Keep things in the proper perspective and I think you can better appreciate that this 'roller process' is at the same level of hardness during its curing as the other paint jobs are AT THE SAME PERIOD OF TIME in their curing.

And if you could BAKE your car at 300 degees without melting all your rubber and plastic.. you might stand a chance at competing and comparing against a factory baked paint job for hardness

But with TIME all paint jobs eventually reach their maximum potential hardness...

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So is rust, or brightside gettin better results? OR does it even matter, i think i read that with brightside you dont need miniral spirits to thing it out, its already good to go?

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