Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25358
08/02/06 09:47 PM
08/02/06 09:47 PM
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Marq
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Color-Sanding (wet sanding ) and Buffing I found a nice article on Color-Sanding and Buffing over at AutoMedia.com... http://www.automedia.com/ColorSanding/and/Buffing/res20030601cs/1Hopefully some other folks that are into the Color-Sanding and Buffing stage will find it interesting and useful in their quest to rid their paint job of orange peel, flaws and to get the max shine possible. Nice pictures tooo .
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25359
08/02/06 10:01 PM
08/02/06 10:01 PM
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I just got home after being away for a day. The Brightside paint has been drying for ~24 hours, but is still tacky. Looks like it will be another day before I can wetsand and recoat.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25360
08/02/06 11:11 PM
08/02/06 11:11 PM
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Marq
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Quote:
I just got home after being away for a day. The Brightside paint has been drying for ~24 hours, but is still tacky. Looks like it will be another day before I can wetsand and recoat.
What type of temperatures and humidity do you have there... ?
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25361
08/03/06 01:29 AM
08/03/06 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Quote: I just got home after being away for a day. The Brightside paint has been drying for ~24 hours, but is still tacky. Looks like it will be another day before I can wetsand and recoat.
What type of temperatures and humidity do you have there... ?
High 70's Fahrenheit during the day, low 60's at night... it's almost 10:30 PM, and humidity in our region is 60% right now. The hood has been in the garage and has not yet had a chance to sit out in the sun to "cook".
The tackiness is really most evident on the edges, but a few spots on the flats as well.
I did bring the hood out into the open late in the day, and was finding some waves from my sanding of the underlayers. I really had a hard time ensuring the clearcoat was removed without going past the basecoat in a lot of spots. I'm thinking of resanding, but I'm not sure that I'd do any better the second time around. Then there's the whole rest of the car to sand...!
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25362
08/03/06 01:34 AM
08/03/06 01:34 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050 Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
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Quote:
Wipe down with a plain rag to de-dust then wipe it with mineral spirits. You might want to use papertowels for the mineral spirits so you can see when it's dirty and youre not just spreading dirt and oil around.
What I've been doing is, wiping down with mineral spirits and papertowels (between coats, it might take 3 or 4 papertowlels the whole car, using about 8 surfaces on each paper towel), then let the mineral spirits evap (may take 20 minutes or an hour depending on temp), then before I'm going to paint, I'll go around it with a lint free cloth, slapping it around getting rid of anything that might have landed while the spririts were evaporating. Then ready for paint.
Between coats, the longer the better (to a point), one day would be safe in hot temperatures depending LARGELY on how thick the layer of paint was. It should definately not be tacky whatsoever when you're adding a coat to it.
I put a thick coat on Sunday night (I think), and it was tacky for nearly 24 hours. It dried with very little orange peel. I gave it about 48 hours to dry just to be safe.
Thanks Exit
Trying my first full coat on the car tomorrow morning. I know the body isn't awesome right now. but it should be well enough to get decent color out of it. Any last minute, 'dont forgets'?! Little nervous, hope it turns out ok. That stuff is a PAIN to sand off once it hardens
Question. if after the first coat i notice a good amount of orange peel. whats the best next step. Wetsanding it with say, 600? 1000?
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#25364
08/03/06 10:05 AM
08/03/06 10:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220 toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
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Quote:
Quote:
Wipe down with a plain rag to de-dust then wipe it with mineral spirits. You might want to use papertowels for the mineral spirits so you can see when it's dirty and youre not just spreading dirt and oil around.
What I've been doing is, wiping down with mineral spirits and papertowels (between coats, it might take 3 or 4 papertowlels the whole car, using about 8 surfaces on each paper towel), then let the mineral spirits evap (may take 20 minutes or an hour depending on temp), then before I'm going to paint, I'll go around it with a lint free cloth, slapping it around getting rid of anything that might have landed while the spririts were evaporating. Then ready for paint.
Between coats, the longer the better (to a point), one day would be safe in hot temperatures depending LARGELY on how thick the layer of paint was. It should definately not be tacky whatsoever when you're adding a coat to it.
I put a thick coat on Sunday night (I think), and it was tacky for nearly 24 hours. It dried with very little orange peel. I gave it about 48 hours to dry just to be safe.
Thanks Exit
Trying my first full coat on the car tomorrow morning. I know the body isn't awesome right now. but it should be well enough to get decent color out of it. Any last minute, 'dont forgets'?! Little nervous, hope it turns out ok. That stuff is a PAIN to sand off once it hardens
Question. if after the first coat i notice a good amount of orange peel. whats the best next step. Wetsanding it with say, 600? 1000?
if i get lots of peel (which sometimes happens) then i'd hit it with 400 too, the sucsessive layers of paint will "fill" in the scratches left behind. also after whiping the car down with mineral spirits as exit suggested, just before i paint a pannel i use a regular autobody tach cloth (usually about $1) to get all the dust off. also after about 4 hours of drying time it really helps to put a few fans on the car, it really speeds up dry time, but do it after the paint dries until it's not tacky.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#25366
08/03/06 11:01 AM
08/03/06 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Thanks guys, but the method is to do away with ANY orange peel before the next coat, correct?
My understanding is you put on 2 coats rustoleum/tremclad (1 for brightside), let it dry and then remove any blemishes, orange peel, dust, fibers, etc, then 2 more coats, and repeat, with successively finer sand paper grits finishing with something like 1500 or 2000 grit on the final coat (6th+ coat possibly as much as the 10th apparently or 3rd or 4th with brightside). Then polish/buff until it shines like you want, then cure another day or three and wax the shine into place.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25367
08/03/06 11:03 AM
08/03/06 11:03 AM
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Exit where's the link to your pics of your car? Wanted to share them with someone and your sig isn't showing up with the link anymore.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25369
08/03/06 11:14 AM
08/03/06 11:14 AM
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BTW, Interlux is owned by Akzo Nobel, who also makes Sikkens automotive paint. Sikkens is some of the best (and most expensive) automotive paint out there. My dad's shop used it exclusively for years until their constantly rising prices got too high to justify. A Spiess-Hecker rep came in and offered them a new state of the art mixing system if he'd give their paints a shot. He made the switch and never looked back ... they've had great luck with the Spiess-Hecker, too. Anyway, point being Akzo Nobel knows a thing or two about paint chemistry. I'm not hesitant at all to try this with the Interlux Brightside.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25371
08/03/06 03:00 PM
08/03/06 03:00 PM
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Quote:
The tackiness is really most evident on the edges, but a few spots on the flats as well.
It could be that the tacky spots are the same spots that I used the Picklex 20, maybe it didn't have sufficient time to dry before paint went on... I think about 2 hours (there was no dry time listed on the bottle).
However, the paint is quite soft over the entire hood after ~36 hrs post-painting, and is easily marred by handling. It is finally "cooking" in the sun today; if the tackiness doesn't harden up, I may very will strip and resand the hood to eliminate those waves and start again.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25372
08/03/06 03:53 PM
08/03/06 03:53 PM
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#25375
08/03/06 04:37 PM
08/03/06 04:37 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
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Quote:
well first coat is on. i wasn't trying to cover up the entire thing in one shot. So you can still see some of the body under it, light/dark spots.
Perfectly normal... for the first couple of layers.
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Paint went on ok, i did get some bubbles when rolling it. Whats the usual culprit for bubbles? i wasnt rolling very hard.
I think the bubbles relate to the air pockets in the high density foam roller and in some cases it might be air being trapped as you lay your paint down. So the bubble floats to the top to escape.
It is interesting to note that there are at least two 'densities' of 4 inch foam rollers available in the stores. The one for example that I saw at the 'Dollar Store' ( 3 rolls for 1$ ) looked more spongy and with more air pockets in the foam. The roller I bought at Home Depot and also at a Benjamin Moore paint store were a higher density foam and the air pockets in the foam were much smaller then the cheaper imitation brand.
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anyway, i do have a couple lines that i didnt notice/roll out...so im assuming i need to sand those off before i go to the second coat correct?
If you can see the paint line... then it probably means there is slightly more paint at that position to form the line so that it is visual. I would very gently sand the surface just to ensure that it is smoothed out and leveled even.
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i think the paint needs to be thinner. For some reason i feel like i should sand it down with like 600 before the next coat, because there is some peel and what not...and i feel the next coat is just going to be a waste if i have to sand through to the first to get the peel out anyway. any suggestions?
It's best to nail any evidence of orange peel before moving on to the next layer. Possible the paint for that first layer was not thinned out enough.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25376
08/03/06 05:01 PM
08/03/06 05:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050 Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Quote:
Quote:
well first coat is on. i wasn't trying to cover up the entire thing in one shot. So you can still see some of the body under it, light/dark spots.
Perfectly normal... for the first couple of layers.
Quote:
Paint went on ok, i did get some bubbles when rolling it. Whats the usual culprit for bubbles? i wasnt rolling very hard.
I think the bubbles relate to the air pockets in the high density foam roller and in some cases it might be air being trapped as you lay your paint down. So the bubble floats to the top to escape.
It is interesting to note that there are at least two 'densities' of 4 inch foam rollers available in the stores. The one for example that I saw at the 'Dollar Store' ( 3 rolls for 1$ ) looked more spongy and with more air pockets in the foam. The roller I bought at Home Depot and also at a Benjamin Moore paint store were a higher density foam and the air pockets in the foam were much smaller then the cheaper imitation brand.
Quote:
anyway, i do have a couple lines that i didnt notice/roll out...so im assuming i need to sand those off before i go to the second coat correct?
If you can see the paint line... then it probably means there is slightly more paint at that position to form the line so that it is visual. I would very gently sand the surface just to ensure that it is smoothed out and leveled even.
Quote:
i think the paint needs to be thinner. For some reason i feel like i should sand it down with like 600 before the next coat, because there is some peel and what not...and i feel the next coat is just going to be a waste if i have to sand through to the first to get the peel out anyway. any suggestions?
It's best to nail any evidence of orange peel before moving on to the next layer. Possible the paint for that first layer was not thinned out enough.
Thanks So given there are some lines, signs from bubbles and a little orange peel. i should hit it with some sand paper, correct? 600? wet?
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25377
08/03/06 05:09 PM
08/03/06 05:09 PM
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Anonymous
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Quote:
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However, the paint is quite soft over the entire hood after ~36 hrs post-painting, and is easily marred by handling. It is finally "cooking" in the sun today; if the tackiness doesn't harden up, I may very will strip and resand the hood to eliminate those waves and start again.
This does not sound normal for the Tremclad/Rustoleum or the Brightside... It sounds like something is wrong with the paint.
If this is the Brightside paint... is it the paint from the eBay 'cheaper by the case' guy ?
Was the can thoroughly mixed or shaken up before using it ? I know that the original can of Tremclad that I bought at Walmart had to be shaken because the paint solids had settled ( separated ) in the can. When you put a paint stick into the can you could feel the solids were all sitting at the bottom of the can like a sludge. Two minutes on the Walmart paint shaking machine remedied that.
If it isn't drying to a sandable stage with in 18 hours... then there is something preventing the carrier from evaporating or there is too much paint pigment (solids) and not enough of the evaporating carrier to thin it out properly.
I was very thorough with the mixing; I used a squirrel mixer on my power drill on the fresh can of Brightside (from the boating supply store), and did again after adding thinner to my second vessel in preparation for paint applicaion... mixing went on for ~2 mins just before paint application.
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