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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: GoodysGotaCuda] #25298
07/31/06 08:49 AM
07/31/06 08:49 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965 Offline
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Quote:

This coming up week, ill be waiting for parts/not getting much done to the car. Anyone just tell me what chemical is used to thin rustoleum primer?

thanks.




Mineral spirits. Even the professional rustoleum (safety red) I got that said thin with acetone only worked fine with mineral spirits.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #25299
07/31/06 09:36 AM
07/31/06 09:36 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 432
Fort Lee, VA
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Hey Rollerheads,
I'm contemplating an attempt in either black or white on a 72 Charger. Can anyone post pics of their results with black? I know black is the hardest paint to make look great, but that's only because it shows failures in bodywork and prep more than any other. Still, not being a pro I don't want to set myself up for failure either. Does black respond to polishing and buffing well? I'm a USA buyer, so I guess it's rustoleum for me. thanks fellas.


Ole' Ugly, my 1985 Gran Fury. Luke, my 39,000 mile 77 New Yorker, Darth, my 50,000 mile 60 New Yorker.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25300
07/31/06 10:27 AM
07/31/06 10:27 AM

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That looks great. Can't wait to see it back together.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25301
07/31/06 11:35 AM
07/31/06 11:35 AM

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Ok, Thanks to all who have shared...I've decided to go with the Brightside for my project (3 coats vs. 6-10 with Rustolium). For thoes who have rolled Brightside, could you please detail the process.

I watched the video and I understand it doesn't need to be thinned and that after it is rolled following it with a clean roller to smooth it out was effective. My question is how much paint do you load on the initial roller. During my tests with the Rustolium I got great results pushing as much paint as I could out of the roller then rolling it on the car firmly. How would you describe the rolling of Brightside in that regard.

Sorry for the long post, Much thanks.

Also, Planing on doing Door Jambs, Trunk & Hood with Rustolium Spray Bombs (I'm painting the car gloss white) Any problems with that?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: BattleCruiser71] #25302
07/31/06 11:35 AM
07/31/06 11:35 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965 Offline
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Exit1965  Offline
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Quote:

Hey Rollerheads,
I'm contemplating an attempt in either black or white on a 72 Charger. Can anyone post pics of their results with black? I know black is the hardest paint to make look great, but that's only because it shows failures in bodywork and prep more than any other. Still, not being a pro I don't want to set myself up for failure either. Does black respond to polishing and buffing well? I'm a USA buyer, so I guess it's rustoleum for me. thanks fellas.




There are some great pics of a black miata a few pages back. The good thing about black (or white) is you can get the professional stuff, and the cans of professional, and the color will match just right. From what I've seen, it polishes very well. But that car better be straight for black..

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25303
07/31/06 11:41 AM
07/31/06 11:41 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 30
Ohio
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I have been painting my 83 Buick Regal which was originally burgandy and i started painting it gloss black because i couldn't find anything in rustoleum that was a dark enough red. I had the car painted 90% black when i decided to change to gloss white instead and now it's completely covered and i've only used 1 and 1/3 quarts of paint,i do intend to use the rest of the second quart though before doing the final wet sanding and polishing.I've never done very much roller painting before but this has turned out excellent.All i can say is if you're wanting to try this technique,read and follow as closely to 69charger's procedure as you can and it will come out looking .

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 78D150CLUB] #25304
07/31/06 12:06 PM
07/31/06 12:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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Quote:

Regarding the foam rollers, my wife found the very same roller in a 3 pack at the local dollar store. They seem to work as well as the ones from Can. Tire, and they have the one straight edge, not rounded on both. I found a big difference in roller lines with the straight, doesn't leave as much on overlap.




i saw those at the dollar rama too, they look like good rollers, but the only thing i can complain about them is that it looks like there is these tiny peices that are almost ready to come off, so i never used them, but they have awesome shammys at the dollar store (dollar rama) that are the same ones that you see being sold at car shows, ect... the big orange ones, and they're a $1!!! i buy 15 at a time they're so cheap.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #25305
07/31/06 12:09 PM
07/31/06 12:09 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

This coming up week, ill be waiting for parts/not getting much done to the car. Anyone just tell me what chemical is used to thin rustoleum primer?

thanks.




Mineral spirits. Even the professional rustoleum (safety red) I got that said thin with acetone only worked fine with mineral spirits.




Thanks exit. the rustoleum primer at my lowes goes by latex. the regular paint is oil based. so i figured there would be a difference in thinning method. thanks

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: GoodysGotaCuda] #25306
07/31/06 12:12 PM
07/31/06 12:12 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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Quote:

Well its not really that im 'insecure' over the paint. It is just that i don't actually want to paint a color red/blue/green/etc at the moment, and i dont want to worry about polishing the finish and such. I want the car one color. I'd rather not worry about peel, wetsanding, or polishing. If i can thin the primer, roll it on and not have a care for orange peel or polishing? thats what i'm looking for at the moment.

So how is it thinned?

Thanks.





i can't tell you how to thin the primer, because i've never used it, if you just want to cover the body work until you get around to paint, just buy white, or black and do 1-2 coats, good practice too, you would'nt have to buff/polish at all. you could buy like 1 quart and do the whole car. i would not use the primer.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 69chargeryeehaa] #25307
07/31/06 12:16 PM
07/31/06 12:16 PM
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Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Well its not really that im 'insecure' over the paint. It is just that i don't actually want to paint a color red/blue/green/etc at the moment, and i dont want to worry about polishing the finish and such. I want the car one color. I'd rather not worry about peel, wetsanding, or polishing. If i can thin the primer, roll it on and not have a care for orange peel or polishing? thats what i'm looking for at the moment.

So how is it thinned?

Thanks.





i can't tell you how to thin the primer, because i've never used it, if you just want to cover the body work until you get around to paint, just buy white, or black and do 1-2 coats, good practice too, you would'nt have to buff/polish at all. you could buy like 1 quart and do the whole car. i would not use the primer.





Thanks, always a consideration..i havent decided quite yet. paint would also be better as far as protecting things, correct?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25308
07/31/06 12:17 PM
07/31/06 12:17 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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toronto canada
Quote:

hey guys, i posted some pix couple pages back.
i havent got to finish the car yet cause i was so swamped with work, and its been raining on and off for about 2 weeks now.

on my finished and fully polished parts, the paint has water stains thats really hard to clean off, and alot of other stains (dirt, mud) feels like its attached and trapped to the paint and takes more effort than wetsanding to take them off. i did the final wetsand and polish about 2 weeks after the last coating, so im sure the paint had plenty of time to cure.

how do i go about solving this?




did you wax it? it really needs waxed right after the wetsand and polish, and then needs at least 1 week sitting in the sun with NO rain, after that rain is fine. or if it does rain shammy it off right after the rain, rain drops are like little magnifying glasses in the sun and can leave marks in fresh paint, and leave mineral deposits on paint that can be hard to get off any fresh paint. wax it good and try to keep it out of the elements for a week or so.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: GoodysGotaCuda] #25309
07/31/06 12:24 PM
07/31/06 12:24 PM
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Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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Quote:

Thanks, always a consideration..i havent decided quite yet. paint would also be better as far as protecting things, correct?




for sure, i would never use the primer, for this method and paint, it's just adding work, and layers, the beauty of this paint is that it is so tough, the thicker the layers the worst mechanical adhesion there will be, that's why we want THIN layers, all said and done this method if done properlly yeilds a super thin layer(s) of paint totalling probabally 1/4 the thickness of a traditional single stage acrylic enamel auto paint job, that's why it lasts, and after the 3-4 month mark becomes bullit proof, when you add primer to the layers, it becomes much thicker, and the paint will not stick as well to the primer as it would to just the un-primered surface. the only real reason you use primer to paint the rustoleum/tremclad is on galvinized metal, ect....where the paint won't adhere to the surface, in that case, and that case only i WOULD use primer. otherwise, your actually going to have worse adhesion using primer, and thicker layers that won't resist stone chips as well, there is NO advantage to using primer on a car with THIS paint, only dis-advantages.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 69chargeryeehaa] #25310
07/31/06 12:26 PM
07/31/06 12:26 PM

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Hey is Ricklandia of Project Beer Fridge still out there? I have a question concerning the stripes you painted on the fridge. After taping off and painting your stripes, when did you pull the tape? Did you wait for the paint to completely dry or what? Anyone else have an opinion on when to pull tape when painting stripes/graphics? I'll be putting on the final base coat of my "test project" tonight and need to start planing how I'm going to do the stripes. Thanks,

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25311
07/31/06 12:43 PM
07/31/06 12:43 PM
Joined: May 2006
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Canada
Marq Offline
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Quote:



I watched the video and I understand it doesn't need to be thinned and that after it is rolled following it with a clean roller to smooth it out was effective. My question is how much paint do you load on the initial roller.






In the video they tend to lay the paint on thick... almost like they are in a rush to get the boat back into the water. But I think for the purposes of looking good on a car body we need to lay the paint on thinner and build up our layers smoothly.

With the boat guys... they slap on two coats of paint and they are basically done. They rely on the ultra smooth surface of the fiberglass boat and the self leveling qualities od the paint to give their smooth shiny high gloss surface.

But I think their methods mean the boat has to cure much longer to reach maximum hardness.

As well they don't tend wet sand or polish their paintjobs..

When I went to apply a layer using Brightside... I loaded the roller up and then worked the roller in the tray for a moment to remove some of the excess. When you go to lay on your first rolling you will see the level of coverage that is is laying down. You do not want a thick layer ( as if you were painting a wall with a thicker layer )

Instead you are trying to achieve coverage without excess. So... it is okay when you lay down the first layer or subsequent layers to be able to see through the paint. It will almost seem like you are trying to slowly tint the car towards the color you are trying to achieve.

The thinner layer will cure faster and greatly reduce the chances of orange peel later.

In a way the Brightside paint is something like the T/R painting... in that the thinner the layer you lay... the better. But even a thin layer of Brightside is going to equal up to multiple layers of Tremclad/Rustoleum because I think the Brightside has more 'solids' in the paint... ( something in the 45% to 55% rate )


Ideally... you should lay down one thin layer and give it plenty of time to cure... 24 hours would be ideal.

Now... one thing I noticed is that you should have a can of the Interlux Brushing Thinner ( ketone ) which they sell specifically for folks like us who are brushing and rolling. I found that for my car and Fire Red Brightside.. that by adding some of their thinning agent to my paint helped me to lay a thinner layer that alloed me to work it out longer with the 'secondary roller'. In fact if you splash in enough of the thinner... the Brightside will act like the Rustoleum/Tremclad.. in that the bubbles tend to become MORE SELF POPPING.

The easiest answer will ultimately be to do some test rolling with the Brightside ( maybe on the inside of a trunk lid or whatever ) to get a feel for the coverage and amount of paint that you should be laying with each layer.

Quote:



Also, Planing on doing Door Jambs, Trunk & Hood with Rustolium Spray Bombs (I'm painting the car gloss white) Any problems with that?






You will have no compatibility problems using the Tremclad/Rustoleum spray bombs in those areas. That is how I did my car... T/R Fire Red spray bombs on the hard to reach spots and the Brightside Fire Red on the outer body surfaces

.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25312
07/31/06 01:08 PM
07/31/06 01:08 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq Offline
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Marq  Offline
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Canada
Quote:

Hey is Ricklandia of Project Beer Fridge still out there? I have a question concerning the stripes you painted on the fridge. After taping off and painting your stripes, when did you pull the tape? Did you wait for the paint to completely dry or what? Anyone else have an opinion on when to pull tape when painting stripes/graphics? I'll be putting on the final base coat of my "test project" tonight and need to start planing how I'm going to do the stripes. Thanks,




If you are laying on just one coat of paint to make your stripes... I would pull the tape in the middle of the curing. This way the stripe paint will be forgiving enough and allow you to pull it off leaving a clean line.

If you wait til the stripe paint is fully cured then there is the chance that some of the stripe paint will have fully cured and ADHERED to the masking tape - which will lead to a more ragged edge when you pull the tape.

Dunno... if you have to layer a few layers of paint to make your stripe... then try to pull the tape at the earliest opportunity during the curing of your final layer.

.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Marq] #25313
07/31/06 01:45 PM
07/31/06 01:45 PM

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Quite a while back in the thread, someone mentioned using fishing line under window seal edges to aid in masking... can someone go into more detail on this method? Seems to me this would use pretty heavy test line in order to have any effect... the thicker the line, the more able it would be to lift the overlapping edges of the rubber seal off of the body to allow paint just under the seal edge. Am I understanding this correctly?

Thanks!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: GoodysGotaCuda] #25314
07/31/06 02:39 PM
07/31/06 02:39 PM
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Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

This coming up week, ill be waiting for parts/not getting much done to the car. Anyone just tell me what chemical is used to thin rustoleum primer?

thanks.




Mineral spirits. Even the professional rustoleum (safety red) I got that said thin with acetone only worked fine with mineral spirits.




Thanks exit. the rustoleum primer at my lowes goes by latex. the regular paint is oil based. so i figured there would be a difference in thinning method. thanks




Oh! I didn't know it was latex, I thought it would be some kind of oil based enamel. I take it back, dunno what it would be thinned with.

I like charger's idea to just put some rustoleum on it. If you want it primer color just get "smoke gray" which looks exactly like primer despite the label.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #25315
07/31/06 05:36 PM
07/31/06 05:36 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

This coming up week, ill be waiting for parts/not getting much done to the car. Anyone just tell me what chemical is used to thin rustoleum primer?

thanks.




Mineral spirits. Even the professional rustoleum (safety red) I got that said thin with acetone only worked fine with mineral spirits.




Thanks exit. the rustoleum primer at my lowes goes by latex. the regular paint is oil based. so i figured there would be a difference in thinning method. thanks




Oh! I didn't know it was latex, I thought it would be some kind of oil based enamel. I take it back, dunno what it would be thinned with.

I like charger's idea to just put some rustoleum on it. If you want it primer color just get "smoke gray" which looks exactly like primer despite the label.




Thats what i ended up going with, i had about a 1/2 quart already and i bought another. poured them into a 1gallon metal can and I will mix the mineral spirits so its the right consistancy...well, ill be guesstimating...

is it better to have it too thick or too thin? What are the side effects of each? Meaning if the first coat i put on i can always thin out the next coat some. I know thicker will cover better, but maybe not lay down as well. But maybe it wont run either. Would i be safer running it a little thick? I really want the car one color, but theres a chance i might get motivated enough to polish it/wetsand it some day. Smoke gray also comes in cans for jambs and such I'll give rolling a shot sometime this week.

I have to figure out how to wipe/wash the car down from the dust while its immobile in the garage.

So i'll be rolling Smoke Gray sometime this week, I'm doing some sanding/prep as of now. Keep ya posted.

Thanks

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #25316
07/31/06 08:31 PM
07/31/06 08:31 PM

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I wanted to say thanks to 69Charger, Exit, Marq and everyone else for all of the awesome information in this (and the other) thread.

My Cutlass is definately getting the Brightside treatment in the fall. Too frickin hot outside right now for it.

Cheers!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: GoodysGotaCuda] #25317
07/31/06 09:11 PM
07/31/06 09:11 PM

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I was cleaning the dust out of my garage from all the sanding I've been doing to get the car ready. I decided I would finally try to polish my test panel that has been sitting for at least two weeks now. I worked the turtle wax compound for about ten minutes but only got a haze that others have reported. I'm going to pull out the polisher tomorrow but can someone tell me which pad to use as well as giving me instructions on what to do. I just bought the polisher for this project and have never worked with one in the past. Appreciate the help.

Also Charger, after the final coat you are saying to let it sit in the sun for a day, then wetsand, polish and wax all the next day or should you wait a week, month, etc before waxing?

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