My project continues and it just gets better everytime i work with this technique that 69chargeryeehaa was so kind to explain to everyone.

With any luck i'll get it finished up this week.

This painting method is absolutely fantastic!!
and the results are more than i could ask for or want from a can of gloss black rustoleum paint.

to 69chargeryeehaa

regarding the pump up spray can - I went out to the garage this morning and was surprised to find that the thick layer splattered onto part of my engine bay was "hard as a rock". Of course it did spend about 12 hours at 100+ degrees.

So im either going to use the spray can, or maybe mix up a thick mixture of penetrol and paint and put that on, so I can get coverage in a coat or two.

i know its about budget, but getting a car painted for under even 150$ is still a bargain. Cheapest base and clear i ever gotten was 400$ thats free labor , free prep, and free booth. Suplies only. Budget part here isn't the paint its the idea of how its aplied that majorly reduces cost ,doing it urself and without airgun , paintbooth etc. Paint u end using is up to u.Just like when u spray a car u can get 50$ paint or 500$ paint. As long its singlestage self adheisive synthetic type is all that matters in our case i think. I dunno lots of people here and honda used onther brands besides rustolium with success its not the brand but chemical forumla.I even seen someone use housepaint in a warner gun somewhere .I wanna try a can of automotive endura reduced and rolled , they have it here for 50$CAN a quart and quiet a coulour choices , Maybe even ad a touch of pearl see how that looks. Gotta buy some righ away. http://www.endura.ca/automotive.htm

Definetley a good price. I'll post the review on the Brightside I got from E-bay (US $60 shipped for 6 quarts). Only 2 colors (flag blue and some really bright red). So I went with the blue (it is navy blue like the colors on the US flag).

This is the best I could get with the camera I have, but it does show the metallic is there.
Finished todays coat of paint, and parked it out in the sun, it should be bulletproof by about 8 pm

YOu just pump it by hand. If you have an air comopressor why not get a gun (you can get a cheap prodcution gun for $35). HVLP cheap for $50~. I think the compressor can do some damage to the can.

Well being able to reload/recharge the can and then paint without having to drag a hose across the yard (to get small hard to reach spots for example) sounds kinda handy

I have a paint gun just don't know how to use it

I'm sure it's just the pic, I didn't see any orange peel when I was working on it earlier.
That area needs one more coat before wet sand, so there may be a touch that shows up worse on camera.
I've been very careful and very lucky, no peel or runs at all.

P.S.: Just got back home again, had a chance to do some comparing with factory paint jobs in my travels this afternoon. Amazing how many of them look great from a distance and when you get up close, the peel in the paint looks like Florida's finest. Not pretty at all.

Just wanted to toss some encouragement to folks trying to bring new life to an old truck. Mine's about 75 percent of the way there (what with work, rain and dead bugs filling the idle hours.)

Please post photos when you get a chance.

Just testing things out right now on some stuff I have lying around: http://faith.dixiesys.com/Paint

Gotta find the "sand" color and gloss white, that's the color I'm leaning towards painting the truck (2 tone yeah) so I want to experiment with those colors the most.

Going to the river for a few days next week but when I get back I'll probably just start sanding the roof of the truck, take out the windows and start on the roof and interior. The roof is getting rusty and wasn't rusty before so I want to sand/prep and at least prime it a.s.a.p.

90% of what I paint in the interior will get coverd up, by door panels, dash pads, carpet, etc so booboos on the inside won't be near so big a deal, same for the roof, who sees the roof anyway?

I'm in the same boat. I'm going on vacation but in about 2 weeks I'm goin to get started with the Brightside from e-bay.

Why don't you just use some Kraft Kindergarden body glitter. Also sand from the beach will work if you have problems getting it in gallon sizes.

Greetings,

Like many others here, I picked up this thread from a different car site, and have been following with interest for a number of weeks now. I hesitate to give any recommendations, because I have not personally tried this method. However, several of the posts have reminded me of some things I heard a long time ago, and thought they might be of value.
Many years ago (early '70s) I worked as an industrial spray painter. Sometimes the "oldtimers" would talk about how they did things when they were young ('50s). (funny, now I'm the oldtimer) One guy told a story about when he worked in an auto body shop, and a car painter with a British accent came in looking for a job. He had his own tool bag with him. They gave him a car to paint to see how his work was. He pulled it into a spray booth and closed the door. It was quiet, and he was in there for the rest of the day. When he came out, the car was beautifully painted. He had done it with brushes. He claimed to have previously worked for Rolls Royce. The guy telling the story said he was sorry they didn't hire him. It was a great paint job, but a guy with a spray gun could have done 5 cars in the same time as he did one. His point was that it was not the tools, necessarily, that produced a good product, but the technique. FWIW

The next item was in regards to sparkles, or metalflakes, as they used to call them. Again, per the "oldtimers", when they first started to be used in custom paint jobs, they had to develop application techniques using the existing equipment. The flakes were too big to be shot out of the existing spray gun nozzels. This is what they would do. After primer and prep, first an undercoat of either gold or silver. Then, working in sections, a coat of clear with the metalflakes hand cast into it. When this was done, the whole body was gone over with a rolling pin to smooth out the surface. (today I think I would substitute a rubber printer's roller) Then they would cover the flakes with a toner, which was a see-through color (like the "candy" colors). They would build up the toner enough to smooth out the surface, then put on clear. They wouldn't start to sand until they got to the clear. That's how they did metalflakes in the old days, I just thought somebody might want to try the "rolling pin" technique on one of their experiments. (the flakes were pretty big in those days, though, that might make a difference) By the time I came along in the 70s, material and equipment had changed enough that when I painted a friend's motorcycle metalflake orange, I put the flakes right into the gun. They were smaller flakes, but I still had to put a couple big steel balls into the cup and keep the gun in motion to keep the flakes from clumping up. I used a 3-step process: gold undercoat, flake & toner mixed together, and clear. I didn't sand until the clear, and it ended up looking pretty good.

Congratulations to all on developing a great process. I'm going to use it on my next project. I particularly like the "Brightside" paint.

thanks, and sorry for the long ramble,
LanceB