Looking for a quality kit for my 70 Cuda.

S&W with the anti roll bar....

Thank you!

What ever you use, make sure it has plenty of adjustment, and is strong enough to handle future power. Also make sure it is installed correctly.

A kit (brackets and hardware) or a backhalf? Tube chassis? Ride height? How fast? Brackets need to be selected according to your needs and application. You need to know how the rear assembly will be configured. Some cheap street rod brackets may not have the correct geometry or configuration. Stuff we used 20 or 25 years ago is all wrong now.

To get an idea of the current thinking on correct hole locations and design, look at some of the better offerings at places like Bickel, RJ or McAmis. Housing brackets may, or may not, have provisions for shock mounts, wheelie bars, anti roll mounts, wishbone mounts, etc. Know where everything is going to be mounted. Chassis brackets can be made for specific applications like low, tube chassis cars, backhalf cars that sit a little higher, etc. The 4 link is a complete system and the relationship between the chassis and housing brackets has to be maintained. Chassis brackets have to be at the correct height, regardless the ride height of the car. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to tune one and there are no holes where you want to put the bars because the brackets are in the wrong place.

Bottom line, don't just "pick one". Talk to some people on the phone, tell them what you are doing and see what they recommend. Not just Pro Mod shops - places like S&W, ART, etc.

CA Chassis Works or Chassis Engineering

I have no personal experience but the RMS Street Lynx looks viable and is something I may look into.


https://www.reillymotorsports.com/street-lynx-70-74-e-body.html
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/home-easy-4-link-rear-upgrade-mopars/

Buy from a chassis builder that can supply you with the set up brackets. I’ve been under enough 4 link cars that werent built correctly for ride height/ bracket angle.
The relationship between the two brackets, ride height, and chassis placement is much harder to screw up if the 4 link brackets are installed using set up brackets during the build.
Set up brackets bolt into the front and rear 4 link brackets instead of the individual bars. This ensures the relationship of the front to rear brackets stay in a position that allows the bars to be placed in any hole without major adjustments when the chassis is finished. Without set up brackets, true placement in the car and on the axle is difficult to get perfect.

Not to talk you out of a 4 link but if you are looking to go 9.0's or slower there may be better options to go with. Not saying a 4 link is tricky but you can get lost very easily. If you go that route keep notes.

Very good point. The car is running 9.90s right now and is probably capable of 9.80-9.70s with a little work. I would prefer something that is better than leafs but not really hard to setup. Thanks for all the info so far

In David Morgans chassis book there was a quote "misery loves a lot of chassis holes" talking about 4 link suspensions, not trying to talk you out of that style but like John said you can get confused real quick,, my suggestion would be look up a few chassis shops and go have a sit down and a coffee with a few of them and see what they have to say because they may become your best friend when it comes to sorting a chassis out, I have a S@W ladder bar system and run in the 9,80's with it, a friend and I put it all together and back halfed the car with info from some people that had done a few, it turned out very nice but John Holt at John Holt race cars has done my fine tuning and the car has been practically flawless since he did his majic to it,,it's good to have friends in the right places.

Unfortunately I live in a fairly rule area of Arkansas so it is hard to find anyone to support. Thank you for the response.

that does make it tougher to get things accomplished.

I will check into this

The one upgrade I have done to my black Duster was to remove the old syyle ladder bar that you had to unbolt to adjust it to a double adjustable that you can quickly adjust. It’s been on around five years and I haven’t touched it since the first time I set it up in my shop. Low 9.40’s so far and no complaints. My heads up car has a caltracks set up so I will have to study up on those if and when I get it running. My Daytona had a 4 link and went 8.40’s@160 mph and I adjusted it 3-4 times over the years with different engine combos. Notes were always kept on those adjustments

Ladder bars may be they way to go. I am honestly just looking for something that will allow the car to hook with minimal adjustments.

Really like the looks of your duster

Thanks

4 links like horsepower. A 9.90 car (low 1.40 60s or so) will need to get the gear retios right to make it work. A 2.45 727 should be fine. I like 4 links. It allows you to do so much more than a ladder bar. But I don't think a ladder bar would be a handicap in your situation. The closer you get to the 8s, the more a 4 link makes sense. Spend the money on a good, pro level ladder bar system and some good coil-over shocks, support the back of the car correctly and you should be fine.

Track only?

I love a 4-link. Simple and effective