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Hey Thank for repling! great info! I have one more question.. how resistion is the paint when done to scratching??

thank for answering marq!!

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This is one of those questions for which there is no exact answer. From what I have seen with the Brightside paint and the Rustoleum/Tremclad paint your degree of hardness is directly related to the thickness/thiness of the layers you applied, how many layers you had to apply, the curing/evaporating time you permitted between adding layers, the temperature and humidity when you were applying the layers... and how long after you finish your project that you go an try an dig a finger nail into the paint

Another simple factor that might impact on the eventual hardness of your paint job ( or how soon it reaches that maximum level of hardness ) might be whether you do all your painting and curing in the garage.. or whether you put the car out in the sun to bake on alternative days between coatings.

I am pretty confident that either paint system will provide a paint job that is HARD ENOUGH to equal a professionally applied paint job.


You have to remember that even if you had taken your car to MAACO and gotten their top of the line polyeuathane paint job... they would tell you 'don't wax' or 'polish it' for at least a month... maybe up to three months. They might even go so far as to tell you to only bucket wash the car for the next six months and don't even think of taking the car through a car wash with brushes.

So everything is relevant when you consider the level of care you need to take with a professionally applied paint job and this roller job method. I believe the same rules probably apply to both paint jobs in order to let the paint fully cure to its maximum hardness. If treated similarly I believe both paint jobs will reach the same level of hardness and resist standard road threats equally.

The professionally applied paint job may reach its maximum level of hardness sooner... simply because there are less steps and intervening factors that can affect the curing time. But eventually both should reach the same level of hardness.

With the Rustoleum/Tremclad paint method... you are in theory laying on layers that are basically water thick. You are building thin layer after thin layer. And is only when you have layered on a sufficient number of these ultra-thin layers that you eventually have accumulated enough paint on the car body to give 100% coverage. Since each of those layers are so thin ( almost to the point of being translucent ) you can easily imagine that when a superhin layer is allowed to dry or cure befoe adding the next layer that it should be pretty [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] hard. Afterall, how much softness can exist in a layer of paint that might only be 1/5th of a mil in thickness. If you eventually reach 10 coats of Tremclad/Rustoleum ( as per the mineral spirit thinning method ) you will only have a skin about 2 mils in depth. The beauty of Charger's method is that by cutting the paint so thin and wet... it applies thin and it evaporates fairly quickly to reach its maximum hardness for each layer.

Now... with the Brightside paint... you are laying on layers that are about 3/10ths of a mil in thickness. And although the layer is somewhat thicker than the Rustoleum/Tremclad layers it is a polyeurathne and it use ketone as the solvent agent... hence it's 3/10th thick layer probably dries at the same rate as the 1/10 thick layer of Rustoleum/Tremclad.

Sorry for this lengthy essay... but hopefully I have covered enough of the 'factors' involving the eventual hardness of your paint job to put your mind at ease and answer your concerns.

,

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Cal96:

I'm also using the Wagner (Which is now $45 after rebate @ Home Depot, btw) and I have a couple of questions:

I'm finding that I can't spray properly when I hold it perpendicular to flat surfaces: How did you spray horizontal surfaces like the roof and the hood?

How many coats did you use total? I have about 1.7 coats (I put on a roller coat before I sprayed, but I took it down with some 800) and I'm getting pretty good coverage... I'm thinking 4 coats would be enough? I'm hoping to finish this before the weekend.

-Morwan

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$45 bucks? did anyone sign the paper or anything...maybe i can just grab a rebate paper and send it in...lol.

perpendicular spray: the gun has a "L" like shape nosal...when you angle the gun, more paint will lean to that side....th "L" can be moved to pointing back, if you are painting upward..cuz all the paint will be moving downward...you should have less problem if the container was full but we arent spraying that much. i think mines was at 40 not sure, ill check again later. but your car might be diff. mines, i just had it pointing forward , away from me. so when im painting down (perpendicular) most of my paint will be at the front of the container...also i spray the hard part first...i had nothing to hold my fenders, bumper to an higher ground where its easier to spray. so i spray those part first...on the roof, i was standing on a chair. spray one side then go around and spray the other. and make sure you hold the cable with your left hand and spray with your right (if right handed). them cables be touching everywhere! and water the ground so dust dont fly up when spraying. that should cover the hood too..
i used about 6-7 i guess, some day would be thicker then others. i had this problem only cause i was mixing still and wanted to see what color i liked (adding black, then thinner then more black...) so my car isnt one same color of layer...only last 3 where same. sanded it all with 800 grit. try to spray it smooth without orange peels as possible. omg, i cannot tell you if you dont youll be wetsanding the whole car everytime you finish your layer...thats pain in the butt. also do NOT use cheap tape when taping up your car. if you dont listen youll find out later.
yes, 4 coat could be enough. if you dont have sand marks showing or bondo area. just spray slightly thicker and let it bake in the sun. next day if i dont smell paint i know its dry. good luck!

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What product do I use to treat rust pits in my metal on my 48 Chrysler Coupe, after it's been sanded and before it's primered/painted.


I am bargain hunter so what out there is cheap in price, yet effective, in a perfect world I would have my entire exterior of my car soda blasted, before I got my $5000.00 paint job.
This car is made with 18 gauge high quality sheet metal, but after sanding out some panels, I am not able to get out all the pits left behind by surface rust and rust pits..........Fred PS any automotive primer thats compatible with enamels could anyone recommend, or should I just use Tremclad primer

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Here is what I hope the truck will look like when it is finished. Ignore the lack of skill with photoshop. Colors are regal red, canvas white and almond.

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Very nice tx4wheeler! Good to see another using canvas white .

The canvas white does seem like it would go well with a dark red.

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If you bought the sprayer at home depot, all you need is the UPC and the receipt. Here's a link to the rebate form:

[url=http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/pc/common/pdfs/042706_072606_WagnerPaintProducts.pdf]

Just send it in before the end of the month and you should be fine.

Thanks for the tips! Second/Third coat will be going on in an hour... Then wetsanding tomorrow. I'd like to put more coats on, but I've got to use the car on Saturday. :/

-Morwan

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Pardner, here's the right rebate form:

http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS...oorProducts.pdf

Bought the unit last week to waterproof my folks' deck. Was in the middle of trying this roller method on my daily driver when I thought of using the Wagner on the car. The only thing is it might take a while since I'm completely stripping the car to metal. It's a 92 japanese import, and from what I've heard, finishes on cars of that era weren't that great due to environmental concerns regarding the type of paint that can be applied (don't quote me on this - this is news passed on for the nth time). Anyway, the paint is in bad shape. On top of the car's original paint, sporadic layers of spray bomb paint and a lousy MAACO paint job have been applied so I decided to strip the thing to bare metal and start from there. It took me one and a half weeks of after office time (till the sun went down) just to strip the hood to bare metal using an 18-volt cordless drill and 80-grit 3M sanding pads. Haven't yet decided to strip the car in one shot then do the roller thing or do a "strip/roll/strip/roll,etc." (ok boys, don't let your imaginations run wild ) while doing one panel at a time. Of course, the Wagner is another option.

By the way, to those who bought the Wagner, it has a simple viscosity checker which comes with it to determine whether the paint is thin enought for the HVLP spayer. Anyway, have you tried "rolling" that mixture and what are the results? I'm thinking, if it's thin enough for the sprayer, then it might be thin enough to be rolled with the least amount of problems (orange peel, etc.).

Just trying to come up with a standard or benchmark for an acceptable paint thickness.

Here's what that contraption looks like:

http://www.gleempaint.com/viscosity-cup.html

Refer to page 4 of the Wagner manual on how to use it.

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/gleempaint/control-spray.pdf

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Here is what I hope the truck will look like when it is finished. Ignore the lack of skill with photoshop. Colors are regal red, canvas white and almond.

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Tee hee... I am such a pain in the butt Something struck me as wrong about the slanting backward of the graphic on the truck. So I fired up my photoshop and took a shot at what I think is more sexy on your truck style...




That is normally how they do it when they want to do up a vehicle to make it look like it is in motion ( even when parked ). It gives sort of the look of a highway crossing across your truck..

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Pardner, here's the right rebate form:

http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS...oorProducts.pdf

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What product do I use to treat rust pits in

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