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My only question - since not seeing anything in person - are thes paint jobs show quality ? If so (or darn close)- would you opt for this method OVER traditional (budget not being an issue). I am ready to go either way here at the house.

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There are 2 things that make these methods work out good, that is 1. skill, 2. time.

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There are 2 things that make these methods work out good, that is 1. skill, 2. time.

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...and no bugs walking into your paint job.

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bugs i can understand, walking into your paint is just being a knob!!! but i've done it too

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I asked before biut it got lost in the shuffle, when doing an entire vehicle, is it best to coat the whole thing at one time, or do you coat panel by panel?

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I asked before biut it got lost in the shuffle, when doing an entire vehicle, is it best to coat the whole thing at one time, or do you coat panel by panel?

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I think everyone who has tried it has done a whole car at once. This is going panel by panel until all panels are done (can't imagine working on an area larger than a panel at a time). Usually 1-2 hours depending on the size of the car and nooks and crannies.

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that's what I figured. I'm still trying to decide if i'm going to spray the jambs and nooks, or if i'll use a foam brush. deciions decisions lol

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One nice thing if you are going to use the Rustoleum / Tremclad method... is that you can buy spray bombs of your specific color.

When I was originally doing my car with the Tremclad paint I bought six spray bombs of the Fire Red and before putting paint on the body I spray bombed the innner trunk lid, all the sills in the trunk, all the sills in the front fender area and all the nooks and cranny's around the door and door jamb.

My theory was that it was better to get all those 'pain in the a$$" spots out of the way early so that my future painting on the body would not be put at risk from oversprays or paint runs.

When I changed midstream to the Brightside paint, things worked our well because the color of red that I bought from Brightside was also Fire Red.

I can't imagine the time or frustration of trying to use a foam brush to paint those spots. If you take your time and spray in short controlled burst you can get a fairly level coat of paint in those hard to reach areas.

The only use for a foam brush might be to catch any runs in the paint if your get a little trigger happy with your sprarying... OR when the body is completely painted and you want to lay a consistent application of paint in all the rain gutters in the trunk.

I think for most average smucks with average talent ( myself included) that it works out better in the long run spray bombing those hard to reach places before starting in on the body panels.

Just my two cents worth on that topic

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A couple of question.. if I get the rustuelom do I get prof or regular paint? second..

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Both will do the job... but the 'professional' version may have a bit better pigment and solids in it. In theory you might get better 'coverage' with the professional version. As an aside topic, I seem to recall someone once mentioning that the Professional Grade Rustoleum was in fact the Canadian Tremclad paint. Not sure if that is true... but it is conceivable...

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can I use a dark or light primer? or do I really need one? third.

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The choice of primer color is directly related to the color of paint that you are going to apply and the end result color that you want. For example, Fire Red paint laid on a blue-gray primer gives a darker Fire Red color then if you had laid it onto a white primer.

Should you use a primer ? That probably depends more on what you are painting onto. If you already have a uniform color on your car body that you will be painting on to then you might be able to go straight to paint without a primer. If you have a bondo'd body, a white fiberglass hood and a mish mash of colored body parts on your car, then you might want to go with a primer JUST to have one uniform color underneath the paint to start from.

I think the main reason why I decided to put a good quality primer onto my car was to achieve the darker red color with my paint ( because the paint inherits some of the color refraction of the sub-layer ) and because with a good quality primer I was able to sand like a mad man and get one heck of a smooth surface to start laying my paint on. Smoother subsurface EQUALS glossier finish with the paint on it.

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. which grit sandpaper do I use beside 1500 and 2000?

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I guess it all depends at what stage of the bodywork and painting you are at. I made use of a 220 grit to level out my primer and then resanded it with a 400 grit to get it smoother. When 'wet sanding' between every second coat you can use an 800 or 1000. If you need something a little more agressive you can fall back to your 400 and then hit it after with the 800 or 1000. You don't get into the 1500 or 2000 grit until you are at your final coating and that is mostly to prep that final surface for hitting with the polishing etc.

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.. the powerpainter does it work well compare to the roller? if i use the powerpainter do I sand my truck as often as you do with the roller?..

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I think you can achieve excellent results with the sprayer - and I was even tempted at one point to splurge and pick up a sprayer. The results with the sprayer will give you a potentially more uniform application of the paint on to the vehicle. But the price you will pay for this convenience is MESS... the overspray is the one nice thing that the roller totally eliminates. And I guess you won't end up with as many bad things in your lungs and nostrils when you roll instead of spray. But if you develop your ninja paint rolling skills and paint mixing formulations than the roller job can give you a paint job that will be equal in appearance to a sprayed job. The key here is that it will obviously take more time and potential wetsanding between every second layer with the roller - compared to a sprayed on paint job. The sprayed paint will in theory be more level so that when you are wetsanding every second layer it should in theory be a smoother surface and hence less wetsanding required.

The other factor in the spray vs roll debate would be how much more masking off of the car you will need to do with the spray. When rolling you have far more control over where the paint is going - and hence your masking of the vehicle requires less time and tape spent doing that....

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