Re: One question and I'll decide on color....
[Re: RebelDart]
#25098
07/16/06 10:41 AM
07/16/06 10:41 AM
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Marq
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My only question - since not seeing anything in person - are thes paint jobs show quality ? If so (or darn close)- would you opt for this method OVER traditional (budget not being an issue). I am ready to go either way here at the house.
Show quality 'might' be achievable... but the 'factor' in arriving at that level of perfection is 'time'
The less time you put into your project the more it is going to look like a hand painted car...
The more time and care you put into your project the better the end result is going to be...
Achieving 'show quality' is going to take more time, care and skill than the average backyard mechanic ( or painter ) can afford to put into a project or have their vehicle off the road while 'working it'.
I think you need to use the 'footage' scale... because that is applicable to these hand jobs and paint jobs done at a professional shop.
For example, I once prepared a Triumph TR6's body and sent it over to a 'professional painter'. When I got the car back it was a drop dead knockout at TWENTY FEET... When I got to within TEN FEET I could see variations in the white paint job... when I got to within THREE FEET I could see almost a haze over the paint. When I got to witin ONE foot I could see just how poor the paint had been applied and it was rough to the touch. So much for a professional spraying.
To get a 'show quality' paint job implies that at all distances... from TWENTY FEET down to close inspection at six inches will reveal nothing except quality...
But in another way to measure this method is to compare against 90% of the other vehicles on the road... The question in your mind should be " Will my paint job blend in with all the other cars on the road or will it stand out like a sore thumb and make me look like a cheap b4st4rd who tried to paint his own car by hand ?
I believe that with a reasonable amount of work you CAN achieve a paint job that is EQUAL to most of the other cars on the road - and in some cases you can achieve a BETTER result.
Having spent the last two months experimenting with both the Tremclad/Rustoleum process and the Brightside process I have found myself paying CLOSE attention to OTHER VEHICLE'S paint jobs.
In fact I would almost recommend to anyone who is about to undertake this painting process to direct some of their attention to looking at other people's cars. It seems that wherever I go I stare at the paint of the car next to me.
And frankly what you see will surprise you. Factory paint jobs that look like they have orange peel... or where the application of the paint has left waves under the coat of paint.
Once you establish just how bad the majority of 'factory paint jobs' are... it will make you a little less finicky or picky about every little burp in your own paint job.
The problem with our 'hand paint jobs' is that we have our noses RIGHT DOWN within one foot of the body work or sanding that we working on. We see minor imperfections that we keep 'working' in order to achieve 'perfection'. In the end that pickiness takes time and materials. But more importantly we achieve surfaces that are actually smoother and less flawed then the factory paint jobs that a driving around.
When I finished the McLaren ( Mustang ) and shot pictures of it... I would say that it was a good 'TWO FOOTER'. A person would have to put their nose closer than two feet to find anything that looked out of the ordinary. If I had gone to the rubbing and polishing stage I probably could have gotten things down to ONE FOOT inspection distance.
So for most people who might read this thread, we all would be happy enough to simply have a paint job that won't give us away as being 'cheap b4st4rds'.. and won't draw any unwarranted or critical attention to our paint. I believe that both the Tremclad/Rustoleum and the Brightside paint system can achieve that result.
But remember that 'time spent' is directly related to the quality of the end product.
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Re: One question and I'll decide on color....
[Re: Marq]
#25099
07/16/06 12:40 PM
07/16/06 12:40 PM
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Cal96 what color did you use? Stops rust or professional?
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Show quality vs. shame quality....
[Re: RebelDart]
#25100
07/16/06 02:38 PM
07/16/06 02:38 PM
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I can honestly say I never went into this with the idea of parking on the concourse. I just wanted an inexpensive way to get my truck to where folks (including my wife) wouldn't turn their nose up as they walked past.
Show quality with a roller would be the mark of a dedicated, practiced hand that had a lot of time to master the skill.
90 percent of us fail in one or more of those categories. But at least people say "That looks nice!" instead of "What happened to your car?" now.
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Well said, Marq!
[Re: Marq]
#25101
07/16/06 02:44 PM
07/16/06 02:44 PM
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Getting to the 5-foot "can't tell the difference" is a goal in most everyone's grasp. The McLauren should stand as a monument to what can be accomplished.
And you're right about other cars as well...when we're in a parking lot, I find myself critiquing the paint on other cars. Or I see cars faded out and blotchy and wonder if their owners would be willing to pick up the roller and follow us?
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Re: Well said, Marq!
#25102
07/16/06 03:16 PM
07/16/06 03:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220 toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
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i have 3 things to say: $50 - i am $5000 - i am over the $ i could have done this for $50 why did i do this $8000 - i am about the $ over the paint, my car would end up being a garage queen Quite honestly, the issue is what you want as a end result, and what you'd be happy with... Marq has it nailed perfect, not even a factory job has no flaws, and when your painting your own car, your your worst enemy, your right up to it, looking directly at it all the time as your working, but you don't put yourself in the perspective of just seing the car in a parking lot at the store, if you do you'd be . that's why i told exit to have a few buddies over, and say i just had my car painted, what you think, i bet $ they would be too. There are 2 things that make these methods work out good, that is 1. skill, 2. time. you need both.
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Re: Well said, Marq!
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25103
07/16/06 04:13 PM
07/16/06 04:13 PM
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Quote:
There are 2 things that make these methods work out good, that is 1. skill, 2. time.
...and no bugs walking into your paint job.
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Re: One question and I'll decide on color....
#25104
07/16/06 06:58 PM
07/16/06 06:58 PM
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cyberbackpacker, i used hunter green gloss mix with black gloss. i used stop rust. i have pictures on my last posts and it shows what i used
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Re: One question and I'll decide on color....
#25105
07/16/06 09:16 PM
07/16/06 09:16 PM
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Cla96 looking good. I really like the color. I started tearing my car down and god everything taken apart friday. I spent the last two days stripping off the paint. Here's a few shots of my progress.
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Re: One question and I'll decide on color....
#25106
07/16/06 09:18 PM
07/16/06 09:18 PM
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Re: One question and I'll decide on color....
#25108
07/16/06 11:35 PM
07/16/06 11:35 PM
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i also like the color too and at night time the color slightly changes...lol cant explain its not like regular automotive paint...the paint seem to be tinted at night... that a lot of work FarFire70..but it will look good i just bought some paint remover...jargon, not for my car of course but for the green concret that i have created... i was scrubbing it with a metal brush and this thing is hard to come off...so tomorrow jargon and metal brush..lets see what it can do. good luck with yours.
Last edited by Cal96; 07/17/06 04:17 AM.
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Re: One question and I'll decide on color....
#25109
07/17/06 08:53 AM
07/17/06 08:53 AM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 59 St Andrews ,Manitoba ,Canada
C38coupe
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Hey , does anyone know what product,is used for rust pits, once the metal is sanded to the point you can't get it all, that is cheap in price and sold in Canada. My car is a 48 Chrys and has 18 gauge sheet metal, but after sanding down panels, especially around drip rails, where surface rust pits were all sanded out, but some pits are still there.................Thanx and keep rolling
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Re: Well said, Marq!
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25110
07/17/06 10:17 AM
07/17/06 10:17 AM
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I am fortunate enough to have another car I can drive (my show car) while I do this to my daily driver. The car is sanded down fully with 220 grit, bondo work is done and scratches and dings filled. I'm going to take off a week from work and take this on the first week in Aug.
My test panel (a lawnmower hood) is coming along nicely tho. I'm wetsanding tonight and applying my 3rd two coat. It's going well, mixing the paint and hopeing you have the right consistency is the key. I'll have pics soon.
I asked before biut it got lost in the shuffle, when doing an entire vehicle, is it best to coat the whole thing at one time, or do you coat panel by panel?
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Re: Well said, Marq!
#25112
07/17/06 10:59 AM
07/17/06 10:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
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69chargeryeehaa
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Quote:
Quote:
There are 2 things that make these methods work out good, that is 1. skill, 2. time.
...and no bugs walking into your paint job.
bugs i can understand, walking into your paint is just being a knob!!! but i've done it too
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Re: Well said, Marq!
#25113
07/17/06 12:18 PM
07/17/06 12:18 PM
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Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
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Quote:
I asked before biut it got lost in the shuffle, when doing an entire vehicle, is it best to coat the whole thing at one time, or do you coat panel by panel?
I think everyone who has tried it has done a whole car at once. This is going panel by panel until all panels are done (can't imagine working on an area larger than a panel at a time). Usually 1-2 hours depending on the size of the car and nooks and crannies.
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Re: Well said, Marq!
[Re: Exit1965]
#25114
07/17/06 12:51 PM
07/17/06 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
I asked before biut it got lost in the shuffle, when doing an entire vehicle, is it best to coat the whole thing at one time, or do you coat panel by panel?
I think everyone who has tried it has done a whole car at once. This is going panel by panel until all panels are done (can't imagine working on an area larger than a panel at a time). Usually 1-2 hours depending on the size of the car and nooks and crannies.
that's what I figured. I'm still trying to decide if i'm going to spray the jambs and nooks, or if i'll use a foam brush. deciions decisions lol
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Re: Well said, Marq!
[Re: BigTerry]
#25117
07/17/06 02:35 PM
07/17/06 02:35 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
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Quote:
A couple of question.. if I get the rustuelom do I get prof or regular paint? second..
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Both will do the job... but the 'professional' version may have a bit better pigment and solids in it. In theory you might get better 'coverage' with the professional version. As an aside topic, I seem to recall someone once mentioning that the Professional Grade Rustoleum was in fact the Canadian Tremclad paint. Not sure if that is true... but it is conceivable...
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can I use a dark or light primer? or do I really need one? third.
The choice of primer color is directly related to the color of paint that you are going to apply and the end result color that you want. For example, Fire Red paint laid on a blue-gray primer gives a darker Fire Red color then if you had laid it onto a white primer.
Should you use a primer ? That probably depends more on what you are painting onto. If you already have a uniform color on your car body that you will be painting on to then you might be able to go straight to paint without a primer. If you have a bondo'd body, a white fiberglass hood and a mish mash of colored body parts on your car, then you might want to go with a primer JUST to have one uniform color underneath the paint to start from.
I think the main reason why I decided to put a good quality primer onto my car was to achieve the darker red color with my paint ( because the paint inherits some of the color refraction of the sub-layer ) and because with a good quality primer I was able to sand like a mad man and get one heck of a smooth surface to start laying my paint on. Smoother subsurface EQUALS glossier finish with the paint on it.
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. which grit sandpaper do I use beside 1500 and 2000?
I guess it all depends at what stage of the bodywork and painting you are at. I made use of a 220 grit to level out my primer and then resanded it with a 400 grit to get it smoother. When 'wet sanding' between every second coat you can use an 800 or 1000. If you need something a little more agressive you can fall back to your 400 and then hit it after with the 800 or 1000. You don't get into the 1500 or 2000 grit until you are at your final coating and that is mostly to prep that final surface for hitting with the polishing etc.
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.. the powerpainter does it work well compare to the roller? if i use the powerpainter do I sand my truck as often as you do with the roller?..
I think you can achieve excellent results with the sprayer - and I was even tempted at one point to splurge and pick up a sprayer. The results with the sprayer will give you a potentially more uniform application of the paint on to the vehicle. But the price you will pay for this convenience is MESS... the overspray is the one nice thing that the roller totally eliminates. And I guess you won't end up with as many bad things in your lungs and nostrils when you roll instead of spray. But if you develop your ninja paint rolling skills and paint mixing formulations than the roller job can give you a paint job that will be equal in appearance to a sprayed job. The key here is that it will obviously take more time and potential wetsanding between every second layer with the roller - compared to a sprayed on paint job. The sprayed paint will in theory be more level so that when you are wetsanding every second layer it should in theory be a smoother surface and hence less wetsanding required.
The other factor in the spray vs roll debate would be how much more masking off of the car you will need to do with the spray. When rolling you have far more control over where the paint is going - and hence your masking of the vehicle requires less time and tape spent doing that....
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