Another pic

Sorry, meant Exit Long day.

Yes I did paint it on a horizontal surface instead of vertical as it would normally sit. I think it is better to start this way to get the feel of the roller and fine tune the mixture of the mineral spirits. I also found that I always had to error on the side of more mineral spirits.

Color is Safety Red, Rustoleum Professional Series, Duplicolor 100% Mineral Spirits (NOT low oder) that I got from Advance Auto, and I am using a spray can of Safety Red to get into areas that would be too hard with a roller.

Hi again everyone its been a while sinced i painted my trunk lid black. Goods news i am going to paint my whole car gloss white. I am painting the car because I was hit I think a couple of hours ago by a dirt bike in the city streets(i know why would someone ride a dirt bike in the city street dumb
) As i was turning left the guy thought he was superman and decided to run the stop sign going 35 and hits me. Buts it cool tried to hit and I hit him back with my club alls well.

Anyways this is to Exit how many coats are you planning to do with the canvas white?

If it's Saturday... then it must be 'pictures as promised day'.

Ok... I drove the McLaren out into the daylight and here are some pictures of TWO COATS of BRIGHTSIDE (by Interlux).

This is WITHOUT WETSANDING and after letting the car dry overnight from its 2nd coat of paint.

I am sorry if the pics are a bit large... but for some reason if I make the pictures smaller or at a lower resolution my camera distorts things. At least these pics will let you know how things turn out when you paint Brightside over Tremclad







Today I plan on wetsanding this puppy to prepare it to receive its THIRD coat of BRIGHTSIDE.

I am very confident at this point that it will ONLY take THREE coats of paint to complete this.

Marq

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Probably will be able to get away with 7 coats. Based on the pics being after 3 coats I think 7 will work..

I have been lurking on this great discussion all along. I haven't seen much talk about a simple sprayer called a Preval. It is a self pressuring paint sprayer that you can put your own paint in and spray! I have been experimenting with this Preval and noticed that you must dilute the paint very thin (like water) in order for it to spray nicely. I even removed the small pre-filter in the pickup part of the spray tube in ordr to get the paint to work better. I have left paint in the lower part of the sprayer several days, and it hasn't hardened or gelled yet. May be an answer to reaching tough spots, or even to touch up as needed. Check it out and see what you think!

Marq,
How much paint did it take to do those 2 coats?

The car looks great!

Thanks,

Marq, that car looks unreal!! You should post those pics on another board and tell people you just got it back from the bodyshop and are starting to put it back together. ask some routine question about putting the lights back in or something.

then drop the bomb on them that you did it out of a can with a brush and roller.

Seriousely, that looks so good, plus I like the mclaren mustangs anyway....

To do one coat on the McLaren with the Brightside it takes about 1/2 to 2/3's of a one liter can ( roughly equal to 1/2 to 2/3rd of a quart can.

I would suspect that on an 'average' size car ( like a Dart ) with a ROOF it would probably take one full can per coat.

In the case of Charger's Charger... it would probably take 1 1/3 can because those cars had a lot of surface area to cover.

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Thanks Marq,for the info.

I guess i will continue with the Rustoleum paint project since i've already bought everything to complete it and the cost is very low.

The closest place i could find that carries the Brightside paint is 60 miles away and costs $32.99 per quart and since my car is average size and at one quart per coat that would be out of my budget right now. It is good to know there is another paint that can be applied with a roller and brush and have great results with though,maybe next time if i do it again i'll try it.

New question:
Has anyone tried to use the rattlecans to paint an entire panel? My parking area is extremely dusty, so any paint wiht a long drying time (>4 hours) gets absurd amounts of contaminants.

I think a saw it somewhere, but can't find it now. Can you recomend an order of painting? I'm guessing

1) Door Jams, Inside of Trunk and Hood (Rattle Cans)

But after that I'm unsure....any suggestions?

Also, for a car with good, but old paint...you suggest scuffing with 320 prior to painting or another finer grit?

Thanks for the help

I've got to be another person to say that Charger is doing great things for the car community with this. Nothing like painting your own car and being sure of the quality.
Well it's been a long four days of reading but I have successfully read from page 1 to now and I feel like I have an encyclopedia of information in my head. I have everything I to start on my test peice (the fender off a 47 Jeep) except for the mineral spirits. Because of all the debate I have seen, I am going to be using the regular mineral spirits but have only found it at sherwin-williams for 12.99 a gallon. I'm hoping to find it cheaper elsewhere. I know Kelly Moore has it but they don't have any store here in the East.

I have gotten nearly all my questions answered by reading this but still have a question about the sun. I know there was a discussion about letting the paint dry for a few hours then pull it out into the sun to harden. Is this a good idea or are most people keeping the car inside the entire job?

Also, is everyone agreed that we shoudl wait a few weeks to do the final polish? And if so, do you apply the 6th coat and wait then wetsand and polish weeks later or apply the 6th coat, wetsand and then polish weeks later.

So far these are the only details I have left before I start tomorrow night. I'm going to be trying the Hunter green and since no one has posted pictures of it completed, I'm kinda anxious to see how well it will look on my camaro. I'm iffy about it but the original color is turquoise and I don't want to go with too extreme of a change. Heck, at only $25 a gallon, I can redo it if I end up hating it.

Forgot one more question, what is the suggested polisher, 6" or 10". I just bought the 10" but am wondering if the 6" will give me more control. Charger, I thought I read that u used the 10". If so, how would you go about doing around the windshield and the tighter areas. I feel like the 10" will be easier to stand for hours holding onto only because of the handles on the sides and there is more weight to keep it under controls.

Farfire- good question about waiting to wetsand or waiting to polish. The reason to wait is so that the paint is hard enough to polish out the scratches put in by wetsanding.

Whether it makes any difference or not, I don't know, but I would wetsand a day or more after the final coat (a few days, or whenever convenient would be more like it), then wait a few more weeks before polishing. The reasoning being that the surface of the paint, which will be polished, will become the hardest. Again, not sure if there is any difference but it stands to reason that the paint on the very surface is going to be the driest/hardest part of the paint, so polishing that part (which has been exposed directly to dying air for a month) should be easier than polishing something that hasn't been directly exposed to the air quite as long (which is the surface slightly under the original surface that would be exposed after wetsanding).

Such a minute difference, maybe inconseqential, but there's my .