The radials basically need to dead hook, as they will tolerate very little wheelspeed. Here's why suspension adjustments alone are not the answer...

Lets imagine no clutch slip at all, engine rpm with a dead hook on the starting line would equal "0". For simplicity, lets say a car has a constant acceleration rate in 1st gear and the potential to reach it's 1/2 shift point of 7000 rpm at about 2 seconds into the run. If starting line rpm equals "0", and rpm 2.0 seconds in equals 7000 and acceleration rate is constant, at 0.5 seconds engine rpm would be 1750, at 1 second in engine rpm would equal 3500, and at 1.5 seconds 5250 with the tires dead hooked and no clutch slip at all. Obviously dead hooking alone is not the answer, as our engines don't make any power at zero rpm. We NEED controlled clutch slip to keep those radials dead hooked without dragging the engine down too far, as there's just no way that suspension adjustments alone can absorb enough engine rpm over a long enough time frame to make the radials work.

Here's how the clutch can help- the longer it slips, the more time the car has to gain speed before that clutch locks up, which in turn means engine rpm won't be dragged down as far. As a simplified example, lets apply the above clutch to a magical 440 that has a completely flat torque curve of 600ftlbs from 1500 to 5500 rpm. If that 440's clutch only slips for 0.5 second, rpm gets dragged down to 1750 after launch and will only be making 199.92hp at that point. If that clutch were to slip for a full second, rpm only dips to 3500rpm which effectively doubles it's power production to 399.84hp thru the low point of the bog. In the real world the difference would be even more dramatic, as it's unlikely the 440 would be making 600ftlbs at 1750.

My ClutchTamer slipper device makes it possible to choose a clutch with plenty of torque capacity, then "dial in" longer clutch slip as needed to raise rpm without reducing that clutch's overall holding ability. There may be other ways to make a radial work with a manual trans, but my way works pretty good.

Grant

The clutch tamer is a very good tool, but it is usually used to keep from breaking drivetrain components because of opposing forces (crankshaft inertia vs tire friction). A bigger help would be the right clutch. A Long style pressure plate has a soft hit with increasing pressure as rpm increases. You can get plates with adjustable base pressure, and also adjustable counterweights. They can be set up basically to run like a go cart clutch. I've never run drag radials, but I've heard their traction is like an on/off switch, so dialing in a clutch is going to be tricky, no matter what you try. A lower rpm launch with a light base pressure clutch plate and moderate counterweight sounds like it's in line for what you need.

But, hey, if you want to beat your head against that wall...go for it.

I'm pushing buttons for the last 30 years with bias ply,this was a cool read as I have never heard of a clutch tamer.How does that work instead of manual clutch adjustments?

"Drag Radials and Manual Transmissions don't mix"

But, hey, if you want to beat your head against that wall...go for it.

I have tried this on both of my cars, On the Cuda I could dead hook the tire for about 10ft, it would pick the front tires up about 2-4 inches then when the motor reached the point where it was making some power it would start spinning the tire and then the tire shake! WOW I will never put drag radials on either of my cars again, talk about tearing stuff up. The Dart I had a little more luck with its 350 lbs lighter than the Cuda. first thing you will need to do is lower the front spring mounting point as low as you can, take the hit out of the tire. Then you leave at a low rpm and let the clutch slid up to the lock up point, this is where things get tricky if the tire starts tire starts to spin just stuff the clutch in. If it doesn't then you good to go provided you don't knock the tires loose on the gear change. I will tell you that the base pressure was low and the there was a lot of counter weight on the PP. Also the comment about the best double adjustable rear shock is very true.