Re: Ritter Block
[Re: Biginchmopar]
#2453440
02/18/18 01:16 PM
02/18/18 01:16 PM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,454 Glendora Ca.
Just-a-dart
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,454
Glendora Ca.
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Did you bolt a timing cover to it?
Set a head gasket and check if it would seal and if the water passages line up?
I would also screw studs in it and see if the heads can go on
I have witnessed Shilohs (whitedart) problems and hope yours is trouble free.
Last edited by Just-a-dart; 02/18/18 01:17 PM.
"Just a Bracket car dressed up like a streetcar"
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: Biginchmopar]
#2453442
02/18/18 01:21 PM
02/18/18 01:21 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 361 Canada
onig
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 361
Canada
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Curious, how did you check the lifter angles?
69 Dart
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: onig]
#2453502
02/18/18 03:52 PM
02/18/18 03:52 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397 Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
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Curious, how did you check the lifter angles? I used some lifters and did some measurements. I’ll reconfirm these once I get them to the shop with the fixture that we use to do lifter bushings.
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: Just-a-dart]
#2453503
02/18/18 03:55 PM
02/18/18 03:55 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397 Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
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Did you bolt a timing cover to it?
Set a head gasket and check if it would seal and if the water passages line up?
I would also screw studs in it and see if the heads can go on
I have witnessed Shilohs (whitedart) problems and hope yours is trouble free. Not yet, but I will soon (timing cover) Studs and heads yes, gasket no
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: WHITEDART]
#2453549
02/18/18 05:46 PM
02/18/18 05:46 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,638 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,638
Fulton County, PA
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On another note I'm not saying it's mandatory.. but I think bushing the lifters is a smart move with the way that he has drilled the oil Galley through the center of the lifter bore.. it's very easy to get in a situation where the lifter uncovers the oil Passage I'm not familiar with these and this may be a dumb question, but if the lifter bores interrupt the galley 100% and you bush them and block the galley, how is the crank oiled? Right side conventional and left side drilled through the center?
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: CMcAllister]
#2453698
02/18/18 11:42 PM
02/18/18 11:42 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397 Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
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On another note I'm not saying it's mandatory.. but I think bushing the lifters is a smart move with the way that he has drilled the oil Galley through the center of the lifter bore.. it's very easy to get in a situation where the lifter uncovers the oil Passage I'm not familiar with these and this may be a dumb question, but if the lifter bores interrupt the galley 100% and you bush them and block the galley, how is the crank oiled? Right side conventional and left side drilled through the center? These blocks have priority oiling to the mains. The lifter bushings I’m going to use will have groves on the outside to pass excess oil by.
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: Biginchmopar]
#2454399
02/20/18 03:07 AM
02/20/18 03:07 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505 TN
SCATPACK 1
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505
TN
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With the Limited oil return on the Block if you're doing a wet sump I would also recommend external drain Backs from the head to the oil pan this enables air to come up so oil can go down in other locations Let me ask this, wet sump, what about drilling holes from the cam tunnel valley to the crankshaft, I know, I know, windage, it's an issue but is it really on a deal were you're not looking for every last HP? I believe on a wet sump I would do a lot more work on oil return. I'll do that on one of the engines I'm going to build because it will be wet sump. I will look into all options but putting hole into the cam tunel to the crankshaft area would help. It might also help to return oil from the valley even though it is open in the back. I will keep you guys posted. What about drilling a 1/4 inch hole next to each main saddle. That way any oil that drains back would be down the side of the main saddle and not splashing around too much. Would require holes drilled next to #2, #3, and #4 mains. HAH. Never mind, i see you already handled the oil drain issue. Treed again.
Last edited by SCATPACK 1; 02/20/18 03:14 AM.
Old Geezer Racing
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: SCATPACK 1]
#2454423
02/20/18 05:30 AM
02/20/18 05:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,147 Melbourne , Australia
LA360
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,147
Melbourne , Australia
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They certainly look better, the rear cap is markedly improved.
I have a couple of XR2 blocks for P7 heads, they're earlier blocks. Once I've recovered from a recent surgery, I'll be measuring them. I have a feeling the lifter bores are out of position, based on my initial inspections.
Alan Jones
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2454631
02/20/18 04:15 PM
02/20/18 04:15 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,190 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
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"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,190
PA.
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But the car won’t weight the same. Lol.
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2454643
02/20/18 04:51 PM
02/20/18 04:51 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,638 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,638
Fulton County, PA
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I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum? If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar! Be careful of what you wish for N/A iron blocks, even super charged, will run faster than the same parts in a aluminum block in the 1/4 mile in the same car weighing the same Which means they make more power. Ive been told by engine guys that you need to "get after" an aluminum block combination more so than an iron block. And then there's the extra expense. Some of us have a finite budget and want to spread it around past one engine or one car.
Last edited by CMcAllister; 02/20/18 04:51 PM.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: Ritter Block
[Re: J_BODY]
#2454860
02/20/18 11:52 PM
02/20/18 11:52 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,251 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,251
Bend,OR USA
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Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights ....so you'd prefer not to put the weight where YOU want it? The car I'm talking about had ballast on the front bumper with the aluminum block, they moved it from there and move it further back to keep the front to rear ratio % the same for traction, they had to add over 400 lbs. to the car make the minimum weights I wish I could afford to build a car like that, but I'm not
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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