Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 3 of 5 1 2 3 4 5
Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar] #2453224
02/17/18 10:13 PM
02/17/18 10:13 PM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar Offline OP
pro stock
Biginchmopar  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Couple more pics

9125BC6D-6227-4862-B2D9-C7BA4286F7AC.jpeg3BD589BD-302B-4D37-A31E-E0531E78EAF7.jpegF34DE03A-55AA-41E8-8130-030A8C1B9F08.jpeg
Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar] #2453387
02/18/18 11:10 AM
02/18/18 11:10 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,005
Tulsa OK
Bad340fish Offline
master
Bad340fish  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,005
Tulsa OK
Thank you for sharing


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
87 "Chrysler" Conquest
Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar] #2453440
02/18/18 01:16 PM
02/18/18 01:16 PM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,454
Glendora Ca.
J
Just-a-dart Offline
pro stock
Just-a-dart  Offline
pro stock
J

Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,454
Glendora Ca.
Did you bolt a timing cover to it?

Set a head gasket and check if it would seal and if the water passages line up?

I would also screw studs in it and see if the heads can go on

I have witnessed Shilohs (whitedart) problems and hope yours is trouble free.

Last edited by Just-a-dart; 02/18/18 01:17 PM.


"Just a Bracket car dressed up like a streetcar"
Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar] #2453442
02/18/18 01:21 PM
02/18/18 01:21 PM
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 361
Canada
onig Offline
enthusiast
onig  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 361
Canada
Curious, how did you check the lifter angles?


69 Dart
Re: Ritter Block [Re: onig] #2453502
02/18/18 03:52 PM
02/18/18 03:52 PM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar Offline OP
pro stock
Biginchmopar  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted By onig
Curious, how did you check the lifter angles?

I used some lifters and did some measurements. I’ll reconfirm these once I get them to the shop with the fixture that we use to do lifter bushings.

Re: Ritter Block [Re: Just-a-dart] #2453503
02/18/18 03:55 PM
02/18/18 03:55 PM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar Offline OP
pro stock
Biginchmopar  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted By Just-a-dart
Did you bolt a timing cover to it?

Set a head gasket and check if it would seal and if the water passages line up?

I would also screw studs in it and see if the heads can go on

I have witnessed Shilohs (whitedart) problems and hope yours is trouble free.


Not yet, but I will soon (timing cover)

Studs and heads yes, gasket no

Re: Ritter Block [Re: WHITEDART] #2453549
02/18/18 05:46 PM
02/18/18 05:46 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,408
Fulton County, PA
C
CMcAllister Offline
Mr. Helpful
CMcAllister  Offline
Mr. Helpful
C

Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,408
Fulton County, PA
Originally Posted By WHITEDART
On another note I'm not saying it's mandatory.. but I think bushing the lifters is a smart move with the way that he has drilled the oil Galley through the center of the lifter bore.. it's very easy to get in a situation where the lifter uncovers the oil Passage


I'm not familiar with these and this may be a dumb question, but if the lifter bores interrupt the galley 100% and you bush them and block the galley, how is the crank oiled? Right side conventional and left side drilled through the center?


If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: Ritter Block [Re: CMcAllister] #2453698
02/18/18 11:42 PM
02/18/18 11:42 PM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar Offline OP
pro stock
Biginchmopar  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted By CMcAllister
Originally Posted By WHITEDART
On another note I'm not saying it's mandatory.. but I think bushing the lifters is a smart move with the way that he has drilled the oil Galley through the center of the lifter bore.. it's very easy to get in a situation where the lifter uncovers the oil Passage


I'm not familiar with these and this may be a dumb question, but if the lifter bores interrupt the galley 100% and you bush them and block the galley, how is the crank oiled? Right side conventional and left side drilled through the center?


These blocks have priority oiling to the mains. The lifter bushings I’m going to use will have groves on the outside to pass excess oil by.

Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar] #2454100
02/19/18 08:00 PM
02/19/18 08:00 PM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
6
69 lawndart Offline
member
69 lawndart  Offline
member
6

Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
That's what I did with mine.

IMAG1547.jpgIMAG1546.jpg
Re: Ritter Block [Re: 69 lawndart] #2454142
02/19/18 09:18 PM
02/19/18 09:18 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,432
NorCal
RylisPro Offline
top fuel
RylisPro  Offline
top fuel

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,432
NorCal
I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum?
If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar!


73 `Cuda
Instagram: @rylispro
YouTube: RylisPro
www.rylispro.com
925-214-9192
Re: Ritter Block [Re: RylisPro] #2454326
02/20/18 12:56 AM
02/20/18 12:56 AM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
6
69 lawndart Offline
member
69 lawndart  Offline
member
6

Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
Yes sir it is.

Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar] #2454399
02/20/18 03:07 AM
02/20/18 03:07 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505
TN
S
SCATPACK 1 Offline
pro stock
SCATPACK 1  Offline
pro stock
S

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505
TN
Originally Posted By Biginchmopar
Originally Posted By WHITEDART
With the Limited oil return on the Block if you're doing a wet sump I would also recommend external drain Backs from the head to the oil pan this enables air to come up so oil can go down in other locations


Let me ask this, wet sump, what about drilling holes from the cam tunnel valley to the crankshaft, I know, I know, windage, it's an issue but is it really on a deal were you're not looking for every last HP?

I believe on a wet sump I would do a lot more work on oil return. I'll do that on one of the engines I'm going to build because it will be wet sump. I will look into all options but putting hole into the cam tunel to the crankshaft area would help. It might also help to return oil from the valley even though it is open in the back.

I will keep you guys posted.


What about drilling a 1/4 inch hole next to each main saddle. That way any oil that drains back would be down the side of the main saddle and not splashing around too much. Would require holes drilled next to #2, #3, and #4 mains.
HAH.
Never mind, i see you already handled the oil drain issue. Treed again.

Last edited by SCATPACK 1; 02/20/18 03:14 AM.

Old Geezer Racing
Re: Ritter Block [Re: SCATPACK 1] #2454423
02/20/18 05:30 AM
02/20/18 05:30 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,130
Melbourne , Australia
LA360 Offline
master
LA360  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,130
Melbourne , Australia
They certainly look better, the rear cap is markedly improved.

I have a couple of XR2 blocks for P7 heads, they're earlier blocks. Once I've recovered from a recent surgery, I'll be measuring them. I have a feeling the lifter bores are out of position, based on my initial inspections.


Alan Jones
Re: Ritter Block [Re: RylisPro] #2454630
02/20/18 04:12 PM
02/20/18 04:12 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
C
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
I Win
C

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
Originally Posted By RylisPro
I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum?
If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar!

Be careful of what you wish for tsk whistling work
N/A iron blocks, even super charged, will run faster than the same parts in a aluminum block in the 1/4 mile in the same car weighing the same shruggy


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Ritter Block [Re: Cab_Burge] #2454631
02/20/18 04:15 PM
02/20/18 04:15 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,116
PA.
pittsburghracer Offline
"Little"John
pittsburghracer  Offline
"Little"John

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,116
PA.
But the car won’t weight the same. Lol.


1970 Duster
Edelbrock headed 408
5.984@112.52
422 Indy headed small block
5.982@112.56 mph
9.42@138.27

Livin and lovin life one day at a time




Re: Ritter Block [Re: pittsburghracer] #2454633
02/20/18 04:18 PM
02/20/18 04:18 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
C
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
I Win
C

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights shruggy


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Ritter Block [Re: Cab_Burge] #2454637
02/20/18 04:26 PM
02/20/18 04:26 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,182
aZLiViN
J
J_BODY Offline
I Live Here
J_BODY  Offline
I Live Here
J

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,182
aZLiViN
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights shruggy


....so you'd prefer not to put the weight where YOU want it?

Re: Ritter Block [Re: Cab_Burge] #2454643
02/20/18 04:51 PM
02/20/18 04:51 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,408
Fulton County, PA
C
CMcAllister Offline
Mr. Helpful
CMcAllister  Offline
Mr. Helpful
C

Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,408
Fulton County, PA
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Originally Posted By RylisPro
I know that the OP's block is cast iron due to the unthreaded freeze plug ports and lack of sleeves. Is your block above aluminum?
If so that is so cool! I had always wanted an all aluminum small block Mopar!

Be careful of what you wish for tsk whistling work
N/A iron blocks, even super charged, will run faster than the same parts in a aluminum block in the 1/4 mile in the same car weighing the same shruggy


Which means they make more power. Ive been told by engine guys that you need to "get after" an aluminum block combination more so than an iron block. And then there's the extra expense. Some of us have a finite budget and want to spread it around past one engine or one car.

Last edited by CMcAllister; 02/20/18 04:51 PM.

If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: Ritter Block [Re: J_BODY] #2454860
02/20/18 11:52 PM
02/20/18 11:52 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
C
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
I Win
C

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
Originally Posted By J_BODY
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Certain heads up classes out here have minimum weights shruggy


....so you'd prefer not to put the weight where YOU want it?

The car I'm talking about had ballast on the front bumper with the aluminum block, they moved it from there and move it further back to keep the front to rear ratio % the same for traction, they had to add over 400 lbs. to the car make the minimum weights shruggy
I wish I could afford to build a car like that, but I'm not whiney


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Ritter Block [Re: Biginchmopar] #2455141
02/21/18 04:14 PM
02/21/18 04:14 PM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
Biginchmopar Offline OP
pro stock
Biginchmopar  Offline OP
pro stock

Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,397
Carson City, Nevada
The reason I didn't go with Aluminum is bore size, I believe the Aluminum Ritter Block is limited to 4.120 bore.

Look at the main caps between mine and the aluminum block , the front is the same but the rest are different. Maybe a change for the better? Rear cap is way better now.

Page 3 of 5 1 2 3 4 5






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1