broke a pushrod on my 360,where does that piece usually end up? lifter galley? oil pan? can it interfere with the oil pump/distributor drive shaft?

When you say you "broke a pushrod" what exactly do you mean?

From your pic I see a pushrod missing.

Is that what you're talking about?

They usually end up in the lifter valley under the intake.

Edit:
I see what you're talking about now.
Part of the pushrod is still in the head.

Unless you can get the piece out with a magnet the intake will have to come off.

Hopefully it's in the lifter valley.

You don't want it bouncing around in the engine, that would be bad.

Looks like the top 2 inches are broke off. Look around in the valley with small flashlight etc, and see if you can fish it out. Not seen them break like that too often.

When they rub they get thin, crack and break in that area.

You might do some more inspection.....

I broke a push rod once and it ended up on top of the lifter galley. Pulled off my valley pan and there it was. I got lucky that I found all the 3 pieces.

Good eye EV2Bird, that does look (too) close.

yes they have been rubbing the head,mistake by me and engine assembler, they are 3/8s wall pushrods and have a larger cup size on top.the rockers i have are stock cast iron with the interference style adjuster...it has a small ball on them for the 5/16s pushrods small top cup. I have new crane adjusters with the small lock nut and new 5/16s proform chrome moly pushrods. should take care of that problem.

I use thick wall smith brothers 5/16 on #550 open on one build, many use 5/16 pushrods, not so many it seems in the mopar world for some reason.

Im getting to use a set of those rockers, can you post what cam and springs your using?

You need to correct your rocker geometry.

pics of removed pushrods
one fell apart when i removed it(tip fell out,bottom is super loose.

Cam P4529970 mech. 284/284 72 .526/.526 28/32 lash 106 centerline
dont know on springs, came on the 2.02 915Js when i bought them(were new), were checked for spring pressure and the spring heights were set.

If you haven't decided to remove the intake manifold and oil pan to retrieve all the loose pieces, are you feeling really lucky
Do you really want to take a chance of one of those pieces falling in between the cam and lifters or the in between the cam and block
I broke a inner valve spring on one of my old bracket motors years ago, it spit the pushrod out and the roller lifter, I took the intake and valley pan off and replace that pushrod, valve spring and that set of lifters and ran it for several more races before selling the car to a guy who had to absolutely have it right then. He raced it for over six months one to two times a month and ended up spinning a rod bearing after loosing the oil pressure and not noticing for two runs
A piece of that broken valve spring tip was lodged into the oil pump locking it up
Murphy loves messing with us drag racers, don't you know
Fix it now properly before running it again

I know ,your correct, problem i have is i now live in a HOA park.,got a slab,no garage, and your not supposed to work on your cars here in view of the noisy&nosy neighbors. lol. trying to figure it out first.

Nosy (I'm assuming!)

I had that before. I put up a canvas "car shelter" and problem solved. If that is an option in your area...

cant am in middle of street and no room

I have a couple of messages out to see if someone local can help you out.

You will need to have the rocker arms spot faced where the jam nut tightens down or they will loosen up every time you run the engine through it's cycle.

Might be more cost effective to install the "offshore" rockers. With your mild cam and springs you should be OK
There's a set of Erson rockers on Ebay right now for $150 and I would bet you couldn't get yours machined for that price
Gus

You will need to have the rocker arms spot faced where the jam nut tightens down or they will loosen up every time you run the engine through it's cycle.



The top where jam nut seats will definitely need to be spot faced. Usually tears up the adjuster threads from cocking the jam nut onto the crooked face. Should only cost around $30/$40 to get it done. The old 273s are way better than the Chinese junk.

One of the reasons I glue magnets in my oil pan, trans pan and rear end cover.