So whats the going rate to build a mild 383 big block? Its been a few years since I've had to have an engine done and honest dam near fell over when I was told 8k plus to do a mild dyno run 383 for my road runner. First a little back round, my motor was in the car and I knew nothing about it. I took it to an engine shop and had it disassembled and the block and heads checked. Turns out one of the rods was bent and the one 906 head was cracked. The thought was to get a 440 Source stroker kit ($2300)I was $493 into the disassembly and having the block and heads checked. block is fine and 40 over. So my next question was how much for the motor with the stroker kit assembled and dynoed. Mind you I need to find heads to replace the bad ones I had.
I was told $7800 without the cost of the replacement heads and I still needed to get a new oil pan, water pump, starter, etc. which would put me well into the 9k price range if not 10K. Is this where the hobby is at now. The last engine I had done was a 68 steel crank 440 11-1 and it was awesome for 5k. Just wondering options. I'm beside myself on this.

Sounds like too much to me too.
Odds and ends add up quick tho.

I would think you could buy a drop in engine much cheaper,,,keep shopping

It definitely adds up fast. I just got my 451 back from the machine shop I've been using for a long time. I wanted to assemble it myself but at that point for him to assemble it and run on a test stand was not much compared to the whole build and hed stand behind it.

Go here... http://www.cmengines.com/Engines/DynoTes...17/Default.aspx

432 Stroker Kit - 440 Source

Billet Steel Main Caps - 440 Source

ARP Hardware

Block Decking

Line Boring

.030 Over

Balance Crank

Assembly of short block

Edelbrock E Street Heads

I got under $5,000 Total

How much do you want to spend on valvetrain ?

And I didn't have any engine dyno work done so

I assembled the long block and of course installed everything into car

Break in cam last month , but that's as far as I got

Brrrrrrr in WI last three weeks

Will Bee at least a few more months before car is on street

If you are buying all new parts then it easily adds up to 8K or more. Most of the engines that go out the door at the local machine shop are more in the range of $10K to $12K. Aluminum heads, new carbs, roller cams, stroker kits, etc. all add a lot of cost.

who's doing the work?

440source kit and a set of trick flows is 4,000$ alone.

"Warmed up" rebuilt 383 with decent parts and factory heads should be do-able for under $2500 if you assemble. Factory heads and rods are a dime a dozen so good used cores should not weigh much on the cost.

Stroker where only the block and timing cover are factory, $5000-$6000+ depending on parts used and you assembling. As I have learned from my recent 383/451 build, assembling a bunch of aftermarket parts into a well put together motor can take many hours of work, so expect the labor bill to add up in a hurry if you have a competent engine builder put it together for you.

My 383/451 build with "cleaned up" 346/516 heads, offset ground 440 crank, and iron rockers could probably be accomplished for under $4K

Good machine work and assembly add up quick. 8K doesn't sound bad IF the shop is doing all the work.

Thing is I just want a fairly stock 383. Its a 4 speed, factory exhaust manifolds, and I have to run the factory intake to clear the air grabber. I'm not looking for a speed demon. All I wanted was a 383-4 speed-3:55 posi car. original equipment.

Thing is I just want a fairly stock 383. Its a 4 speed, factory exhaust manifolds, and I have to run the factory intake to clear the air grabber. I'm not looking for a speed demon. All I wanted was a 383-4 speed-3:55 posi car. original equipment.

I have had engines built without dyno from shops I trust and no issues beyond easy to fix oil leaks. Dyno plus lots of new parts including stroker kit adds up fast. Shop around for an un-cracked head, rod(s) and skip the dyno and lots cheaper (stock stroke).

Personally, I would wonder why the rod bent? Also is 40 over OK or does it need to go 60? Are cylinder walls thick enough at 60? Agree it may be worth shopping for a better core engine to start with.

My last 440, about 4 years ago, totalled close enough to $10K as to make no difference. It was quite stout and everything was done right. Zero problems.
Stealth heads, Perf RPM intake, both ported, springs upgraded, beautiful valve job, solid Engle FT cam, Johnson lifters, Smith pushrods, perfected LY rods, Icon pistons, hand-fitted quality rings, Milodon pan & tray, alum water pump & housing, MSD, re-curved MP dist, forged OEM crank, ARP fasteners, Hedman headers. Already had the carb. Included break-in on a stand.
Quality parts haven't become any cheaper, nor has talented labor.

Years go, I had a stock 383 rebuild done, think it was maybe $5K, and that motor had numerous problems; had the top end back off later, and eventually it had a short life. False economy.

Stock type build should not cost 10,000. I would be tempted to go with the stealth heads and a better piston even for a mild build.

When did you have this built?

If you want it cheap find a running 383 and buy it.

If 10K is too much what do you feel is a reasonable price?

For that much money I would expect the only thing stock left to be the engine block. Are they putting it into the car for you as well?

Expensive prices for a mild stock rebuild are one way of them saying "I'm busy, but if you want to really fork it over I'll accommodate your project into my schedule". Shady body shop guys use this all the time to squeeze more money out of people than what the project would normally cost.

wondering options???
we in the tri state area are literally in the hub of engine builders!!!
there are many in our area.
shop around

1.LRB Performance Machine Company | NJ Racing Engine Shop
2. Ceralli Racing Engines & Checkered Flag Machine | Paterson, NJ 075
3. Andy Jensen's Engine Technologies. High performance engine
4.Engine Rebuilding Performance Marine & Vintage - Automotive ...
5.ACA Performance Automotive. Your premiere, full-service machine ...

and that is just scratching the surface!!

Where are you in nj?

But that's not what you said you were building. You indicated a stroker kit $$$, and major machine work $. There are more economical ways. If just looking to get a freshened up engine, use stock components. Can the crank be cleaned up? Stock rods for 383 can be found economically here, ebay, etc. Id splurge for new custom pistons since you probably want to boost compression ratio some. I have also seen reworked (basic valve work) 452 heads for $750 a pair. Ebay aluminum intake close to stock dimensions (there are a couple out there) or reuse the iron. The $7800 without heads seams high to me too, but it does all add up.

I would guess you can come in under $5k going with stock parts. Is the dyno session to tune it or just check for leaks? I used a k frame and made a run in stand to check for leaks.

Mike contact IDM HEADS and Machine on RT.9 in West Creek NJ 609 978-6411 very reasonable and very meticulous.
They are slammed with work so plan on at least 3-6 months.
They don't have a Dyno but they can bring the engine to a run-in machine if wanted.
Ron

If you are using the original crank, rods and heads it shouldn't be more than 4k, assembled long block, standard type rebuild with forged pistons. That should include a balanced rotating assembly and most all new parts.

If the shop is busy then they most likely don't want to mess with a low budget guy project. In my experience the low budget guys are the biggest pain to deal with. They fret over all the little stuff and since they can't afford the good parts you end up with a lower quality build. For example, the low budget guy will want to use $20 head gaskets rather than the $100 gaskets which work. Then they complain about leaks and want the engine torn down for no charge to replace the cheap head gaskets that they insisted on.

So it is very possible that if you went into an engine shop and spent some time talking about how you want it done really cheap that the owner just gave you a high price to get rid of you.

About the only way a low budget guy can get work done for a low cost is to go into a shop and tell the owner "I'm low budget but I"m not a loser. I want it done right but it is going to take me time to pay for this". An approach like that might work but if the shop is busy you might not ever get your job done either.

The other option is to save your money and wait for the next recession to hit. Then you can go in the door with cash in hand and you'll be king of the room.

Maybe, but the issue is that a really busy machine shop would rather use all new parts than rebuild stuff that is 50 years old. SCAT rods are $300 a set and they are ready to go out of the box. It can take most of a day to rebuild a set of factory rods and you might not be able to save them all. Then you're hunting down some replacement rods and nobody is getting paid.

Same thing with heads. Edelbrock heads are $1500 for a set. If the customer says they can't afford that and want their 906 heads rebuilt then you know you are in trouble. Depending on how hard the 906 heads have been treated over the years they might not be easy to fix. New seats, valves, guides, etc. and the bill is over $1500. Plus it takes a few days of labor to do all the work and some hassle cleaning parts and ordering stuff, etc. It is a lot easier to have Summit deliver some Edelbrock heads which you quickly double check to make sure they are in good shape and then bolt them on.

The only real way to "save" any money on these types of jobs is to either find deals on usable "pre-owned" parts, and/or do as much of the assembly work yourself as possible.

I would think you could have a mild streeter 383 short block done for about $3k......put on some stealth/e street heads for under $1100, reuse the stock valvetrain, intake, pan, timing cover, valve covers, etc.......put it all together yourself....... Seems like you could be into it for under $5k.

Where you're located matters as well.
The tri-state area is likely going to be on the high end of the price range......
Other parts of the country where everything just costs less...... It might be $1-2k less for the same job.

I'd also consider a decent used running motor.

Since you have a bent rod and need heads, if it were me this is what I would do:

Buy:
Pistons - $500
Rods - $500
Cam - $250
Heads - $1000
Head Bolts $75
Bearings $200
Gaskets $100
Oil Pan w/pickup - $90 (I've had good luck with ones from KMJ Performance)
Water Pump + housing - $99 (440 source)
Machine work - $1000 (Depending on what they charge and how much assembly they do)
Dyno time - $500

That brings in roughly at $4200.

Than if you need an oil pump, timing chain, push rods, rocker arms, distributor, intake, carb, etc.

I have used a couple Machine shops around NJ but only one for full engine builds he came highly recommended by a friend that used to work for him. I've been using him for various things for almost 20 years. Back then he told me engine assemble is 1,000. That is measuring every single component, checking all clearances. Some people forget a lot of the little things and think you just slap them together. There is a shop about a mile from me before I started using this guy I went there. he gave me a sheet with his prices for everything, when I looked in the back there were Busch beer cans everywhere. I want to say he was charging 200-250 for assembly. I know people that have had mixed results there. I was just a kid but I couldn't see taking my stuff to machine shop that was a mess and had beer cans everywhere.

Recently I was told full engine assembly is up to 1500, and dyno time is 1,000. I can't see apurging for the dyno time.

This might be a solution if not too far away: https://longisland.craigslist.org/pts/d/mopar-plymouth-383/6434319215.html

I took the engine to Impluse racing engines in Wall NJ. I'm in Toms River. I had 6K budgeted and the guys at Implulse told me original style connecting rods are no longer around to replace the bent one. something about floating pins and such and I would need to replace the rods and pistons at a cost of $12-$1500 so the logical thing was to go with the 440 source stroker kit being that I still had to have the crank done. I did contact IDM in west creek and have another option available to me. I was just wondering if I was missing something. The only thing I can't and won't do is build a motor. As for the dyno time I figured if its broken in and pre-run it would eliminate possible issues. I'm a body and paint guy and I'll be quite honest, I can't get guys to pay spit for my talents. I do know time isn't free nor is talent.

I only had 1 engine built for me as it was a ford and I don't know squat about them (It's for the Wife's race car). Guy charged me $500 to assemble + $100 to file fit the rings + $60 to install cam bearings. Gave me a break on the dyno (Charged $400) as I only wanted the cam broken in and did a few pulls to check the Air/Fuel ratio. I have $7800 with dyno time, machine work and all parts in the engine intake to oil pan with EVERYTHING being new, except the water pump. That even included a set of AFR 185 heads ($1650). Motor was a 351W stroked to a 408. I did shop around for deals and got 95% of the parts on my own to try and save a few more bucks.

A few years ago I did a low deck 511 for the FAST class.
Not a high tech "high level" build, but not entry level either.

Ported 906's(way more $$ than RPM heads), roller cam, HS rockers, reworked stock intake, etc......... That motor was about $11k, dyno tested and ready to install.
It would probably cost about $1500-2000 more today.

Depends on the power and parts used, but if you are looking at a roller valvetrain (cam, lifters, rocker arms, timing set, oil pump drive, custom thick wall pushrods) it gets expensive fast. That is if you use heads that already have the correct valve springs, retainers, locks, and locators.
What I am getting at is the valve train parts likely will be more expensive than the stroker kit.

If a mild build with flat tappet cam, then the valve train cost gets less expensive.

Plus, if your having the machine shop build and dynotest the engine, that is likely to be $1,000 added to the total?

My take on the stroker kit, is that they are a good deal if building a high HP engine. All new higher strength parts than stock, plus comes with the bearings and piston rings. After cleaning and checking the kit, it should be good to assemble with minimal issues. You save some machine costs of not having to re-conditioning the stock crank and rods.

On the other hand, if the build is really mild, near stock, you don't have to go stroker. What is the goal of the build?

A dyno test isn’t helping that price. Years ago I was quoted 800 bucks for break in, basic tuning adjustment pulls, and a small number of power pulls after that. That was years ago. So I wouldn’t be surprised if things got more in line with expectations if you cut that.

I guess we all forget how hard and long we could get a stock replacement piston/turned oem crank/valve job/cam lifters type build to last. 40-60k miles and not break the bank.

A good local napa machine shop can do better then oem work.

You could find a good core motor at a fair price.

My local napa does very good machine work and since they dont have a three letter name or race or performance on the building the same quality of work is about half of the "performance" shops.

How many miles do you figure on putting on the car in a year?

Ok so you spoke to IDM how did that go??
I built my stroker 400 with them. The IDM bill was under $1800 and the 440 Source bill was around $3600 with Stealth heads.
IDM: had to Clean/Sonic/Mag/Bore(with plates)/Line Hone/Deck Block, chase all holes etc... Since I don't buzz this motor I used stock caps but all new ARP hardware. They magnifluxed all the new parts, measured all the new parts and assembled them. We did the same with the new heads and changed the springs and retainers. They degreed the cam and got the compression to 10.5.
I had tins cleaned there and they assembled the longblock due to my injuries. They were and are good guys. I stop in all the time doing one thing or another there. Hope this helps.
Ron

Brand new factory rods $50 shipped:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-1958-78-Plymouth-Dodge-Desoto-Chrysler-350-361-383-400-Connecting-Rod/401426733794?epid=1991088817&hash=item5d76e5dae2:g:EzAAAOSwh2RZ6M3h&vxp=mtr

So you machinist's claim that they are hard to come by is incorrect.

Ditto for used factory heads, check moparts classifieds, fleabay, craigslist, etc.

Find another builder.

I have plenty of 383 rods you could have.

Too bad you live so far away, I wouldn't mind putting another big block together (its been a while) last few I have done were small blocks. If you want mostly stock, other than the heads it should be cheap for parts, seems nowadays big shops just want you to buy a bunch of new parts to save them time at your expense.

This is so spot on. My builder will do anything I want. This is because I've built a relationship with him and he trusts me. He knows that I wont screw him, and that I will take full responsibility for my decisions/directives on things that are not perfect, at least by today's standards. I'll take what others would see as some risk in a build.

I can easily get done what you want for less than 5K, including aftermarket heads, and it will run strong and last forever. But if the shop is good and they don't know you from Adam, they just cannot risk you coming back on them. They have to do it "right" by today's standards.

That first shop you went to, they don't want your business.

Seems like most everyone on this board isn't listening to you. They all want you to build a $12,000 aluminum head stroker motor. (I like those too.) Your build should cost almost nothing. I can't believe you can't find a complete running 383 for what you paid to tear your motor down. Used 383 rods are free. People throw them outside. 906 heads are nearly free. Might cost a 2 digit number. What you are wanting to build can be done for a little of nothing if you find some good ole Mopar boys that have had that garbage sitting around forever and know they are never going to use it. And from looking at the stage your car is in it looks like you have some time to shop for bargains. Happy hunting.

YOu aren;t listening to him either.

He wants a stroker 383, assembled and dynoed for him.

No way will that be some bargain, dirt cheap deal.

If he was building the stock 383 you seem to think he wants, then yeah it could be a cheap deal if he could scrounge the parts and didn't go crazy on machine work. This means he builds it, not someone else builds it for him.

Most Ive ever paid for a 383 was 4K. 6K for a 451 stroker.

There was a fresh,warmed over, stock appearing 383 with auto trans, k frame, complete disc brake set up that came out of a 69 roadrunner for 4,500. Guy went with a hellcat conversion.

I could check, but Im fairly certain its long gone being that was back in october

Have you done a stroker in 2017? I imagine it is even more in 2018. I had a stock 340 short block built and heads done separately 3 years ago and it cost $5200 including parts by a very good shop then I assembled the rest. Hard to find cheap decent pistons and pretty much every part is twice what it used to be. Machining, buying parts, and assembling engines nowadays ain't cheap!

IMO...... The real first step in this process is figuring just what the budget for the complete motor is(carb to pan, dist, wires, plugs, oil, everything), and see if what you "want" for an engine combo can be done competently for that amount of money.
Sometimes(often times), the budget and the desires aren't on the same page(filet mignon tastes with a McD's budget).

In that situation, the budget or the build goals need to be adjusted to make it all work.

In the end, it usually comes down to what can you spend....... And what's the best build you can do for your requirements that will fit within your budget.

You are correct that 906 heads are cheap and 383 rods are often free. I've thrown away boxes of 383 rods so if someone was standing next to the dumpster I would've gladly handed them the rods if they wanted them. I just gave away a 400 cast crank the other day and probably have another one in the shop that I'd give away. So sure, someone could show up at my shop with $500 and drive away with rods, crank, block and heads to build a 383.

But somehow I don't think that is the point of the thread. If the guy who bought all of my throw away parts takes them to a race engine builder who is swamped with work the story doesn't end well. Nobody who builds race engines for a living wants to mess around with a bunch of 50 year old parts that a guy drags in. Especially if the engine builder has a wait list 30 guys deep who want drag race or circle track engines ready for spring. It just isn't going to happen.

Now maybe the OP can find an older guy in the back of the local NAPA store who operates at a slower pace and doesn't mind futzing around rebuilding 383 rods and putting new seats in some old 906 heads. Those guys are around but you have to search a little bit to find them.

Best advice I have is that if someone wants a stock rebuild type of engine and they want it done right for very little money then they need to ask around at some local car clubs for a name. There are retired guys out there who don't mind working for $20 an hour putting together old engines. But I don't think you're going to find cheap labor at a busy race shop. You are either going to get a high quote, or no quote at all.

I don't mind putting seats in 906 heads at all.

I'll be shipping out a nice set of rebuilt 906's today that are destined for a Daytona Charger.

More $$$ than RPM heads....... But these are really what should be on that car.

I don't mind rebuilding stock heads at all....... But it's often not the least expensive path.
Just because the heads are old doesn't mean the shop labor rate is any less.

Exactly, that is my point. The OP can find a shop that will rebuild his old engine but it is going to cost as much or more than if he bought new parts.

On the flip side, I recently came across a retired machinist in the local area who rebuilds transmissions for $300 plus parts. He operates out of his own garage shop so overhead is low and he takes his time but does a good job. So guys like that are around, but finding them can be a little difficult since they don't spend money on advertising.

Like a 383 stock eliminator motor as seen in my original 4 speed 70 383 Challenger RT/SE? I might want to switch to a different combo, maybe a 440 or a 340 as the cost to build good motors are all roughly the same. You might want to get in touch with me!

Eric

Im not sure what "napa" machine shops you guys know of but my local on has 11 full time workers in the machine shop and very modern equipment and are always a month out.

The other direction from me is a machine works that works on things from Lycoming aircraft motors to locomotive motors.

Really who here on this site thats a regular poster is building real race motors?

Like it or not 90% of us here on this site are miles behind the curve with our china made stroker kits (including myself).

The more I thought about it, what about all the junk hard blocked, girdles and other band aids on 40 year old block most here run?

Up to a certain power level alot of oem parts can be made to work and work well, just not here on moparts.

Some folks here just seem to have swollen heads and ego-s at times and like to ride the gravy train vs getting there hands dirty.

What's the shop labor rate there?

Modern equipment is expensive, and so are employees, so I doubt they're working for peanuts.

Be interesting to hear an estimate on a build like this:
383 Engine kit with trw 2315's and upgraded cam.
Strip and clean block
Deck block
Torque and check rods
Torque and check mains
Bore and hone
Grind crank
Balance rotating assy
Recondition heads w-hp springs and hardened ex seats

Clean all tin, rocker gear, intake, pulleys, etc

Then add $1500-2000 for a complete assy and dyno test(since that's what the OP says he wants).

This isn't a high dollar build here. If you were closer, I'd be happy to tackle this job for you and give you a run stand tested motor that's ready to drop in.

I'm a cheap sob and got lucky and found a rebuilt 383 with low miles on a rebuild. Redid the whole thing in my garage, measured bores, cleaned, deglazed cyls and dropped my muscle motors balanced stroker kit right in. Threw a set of 440 source heads on it and lunati voodoo cam for about $5k.

I think your miss what some have said. Its not that it has to cost that much, it just finding someone competent to do it.

Actually, my 915s should be on that motor.

If it helps at all, all the machine work on my block other than a quick pass on the deck surfaces was done at Napa. That included cleaning the block, bore and hone, line bore and new cam bearings installed. If I can remember right, it was around $800 about 6 years ago. I do know one of the long time employees at the location; I think they ran my work through one of their larger accounts which probably nocked $100-$200 off my bill.

A friend I know put the motor together and before we even took the block into his shop, he put it in his truck, took it to another local machine shop he deals with and had a quick pass made on the deck surfaces just to ensure the best seal possible. I think that was another $100 give or take.

Buy a DONE motor somebody has dumped a ton of money into, give the $.50 on the Dollar. For 10k you can get a kick ash GenIII hemi dropped on your doorstep

No it takes 5500-6000. At least from me it does.

Block,heads,int etc cleaned
Deck Squared and cut to 0 deck depending on piston.
Align hone
Honed with plates
Balance assy
Crank repaired as needed.
Recondition con rods w/arp bolts
oil pump dr shaft bushing.
All clearances checked and assemble eng. Cam c/l checked and degreed
Cam broke in on run stand, usually about 2 hrs of run time

Iron cyl heads comp rebuilt incl guides and hard exh seats CC to comp ratio choosen. Usually 9.5 for 93 octane

New perf bearings incl cam [Clevite or King],custom (Icon) forged pistons and moly rings Hastings or Total seal.
New Cam, Lunati,Comp,SP or Mopar. Hyd lifters and new pushrods
New SP rockers and shafts
New Timing set roller
New mopar perf oil pump dr
New melling oil pump
New manley valve springs and hardened valve locks.
New superformance and fel pro seals and gaskets.

I prob forgot a couple things but basically that is the package.

440 engines are about 500.00 more. Taking orders now for next season.
Tons of options available.

The OPs problem ( and others like him ) is likely because where he lives.
In the tri-county area around Detroit you can get engines and transmissions built all day for a lot less. Excellent machine shops, a bunch of talent to build those engines and transmissions, and the best head shops in the country for hand or CNC porting.

He needs to get his stuff packed up and get it to the Motor City, or at least another city with a bunch of talent - especially retired talent.

Back in 2009 that is exactly what I did.
My 1968 Newport's 383 cost me 6,000.00 CDN
That included planing the deck and 906 heads,installing hardened valve seats,3 angle valve job on stainels steel valves,bore the block 40 over, and balanced the stock crank and other rotating parts and then long block assembly.
I dropped off the engine totally apart,and supplied all the parts except any incidentals that were needed.268H Comp cam and matching valve springs,Cloyes timing chain,ARP bolts/studs throughout.Sealed Power flat top pistons with thin head gaskets netted 9.2-9.5 compression.Eddy 383 Performer intake and 750 carb,factory KP manifolds,Melling HV oil pump
I was in no rush and they were not busy so it was ready in three months.
There are no dyno rooms in my area so I broke-in in the motor in the car.

As someone who hates 10K engines that make 400 HP and 50K restorations on 383 B bodies - It sounds steep, and my initial thought is BS rip off.

But when you're having the machine shop disassemble your engine I'm assuming they're doing EVERYTHING. That's going to add up quick for parts and labor. I would say $4,000 to build the short block with the stroker kit for parts and machine work, then add assembly labor. Since you're $500 in already, yeah, labor and dyno time will probably add up to 8K. You're probably going to be $5,500 into the short block, plus heads and valve train, plus dyno time.

Black Beeper...

Transman speaketh the truth...


If you can't find anyone local, get ahold of him...


This is not the vicious dog thread, it doesn't have to be drama-filled to build a 383...

69 440...... Would be 906 heads.

Besides, those 915's wouldn't play too nice with the quench dome pistons.

not mine but just appeared

https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/d/383-mopar-engine-fresh/6454107673.html

That engine is a good deal if the machine work was done properly. Certainly worth taking a look at. If everything was done correctly then that would save a lot of money.

Harland sharps on a mild iron head engine? Clearly Oem look isn’t the idea on that one. Some odd parts selection there. 3k might not be bad for a local, but shipping and the unknown make that one a pass for anybody else. You’re already a good deal of the way to rebuilding your stuff and know what is what.

...."that car" i.e the 383 we're discussing.

Sorry for the confusion, I meant the 440 for the 69 Daytona Charger they're going on.

And they're enhanced a little...... To the point of 256/182@.500 lift

Very nice.

Figured they were going on a reverse dome considering the combustion chamber work.