So whats the going rate to build a mild 383 big block? Its been a few years since I've had to have an engine done and honest dam near fell over when I was told 8k plus to do a mild dyno run 383 for my road runner. First a little back round, my motor was in the car and I knew nothing about it. I took it to an engine shop and had it disassembled and the block and heads checked. Turns out one of the rods was bent and the one 906 head was cracked. The thought was to get a 440 Source stroker kit ($2300)I was $493 into the disassembly and having the block and heads checked. block is fine and 40 over. So my next question was how much for the motor with the stroker kit assembled and dynoed. Mind you I need to find heads to replace the bad ones I had.
I was told $7800 without the cost of the replacement heads and I still needed to get a new oil pan, water pump, starter, etc. which would put me well into the 9k price range if not 10K. Is this where the hobby is at now. The last engine I had done was a 68 steel crank 440 11-1 and it was awesome for 5k. Just wondering options. I'm beside myself on this.

Sounds like too much to me too.
Odds and ends add up quick tho.

I would think you could buy a drop in engine much cheaper,,,keep shopping

It definitely adds up fast. I just got my 451 back from the machine shop I've been using for a long time. I wanted to assemble it myself but at that point for him to assemble it and run on a test stand was not much compared to the whole build and hed stand behind it.

Go here... http://www.cmengines.com/Engines/DynoTes...17/Default.aspx

432 Stroker Kit - 440 Source

Billet Steel Main Caps - 440 Source

ARP Hardware

Block Decking

Line Boring

.030 Over

Balance Crank

Assembly of short block

Edelbrock E Street Heads

I got under $5,000 Total

How much do you want to spend on valvetrain ?

And I didn't have any engine dyno work done so

I assembled the long block and of course installed everything into car

Break in cam last month , but that's as far as I got

Brrrrrrr in WI last three weeks

Will Bee at least a few more months before car is on street

If you are buying all new parts then it easily adds up to 8K or more. Most of the engines that go out the door at the local machine shop are more in the range of $10K to $12K. Aluminum heads, new carbs, roller cams, stroker kits, etc. all add a lot of cost.

who's doing the work?

440source kit and a set of trick flows is 4,000$ alone.

"Warmed up" rebuilt 383 with decent parts and factory heads should be do-able for under $2500 if you assemble. Factory heads and rods are a dime a dozen so good used cores should not weigh much on the cost.

Stroker where only the block and timing cover are factory, $5000-$6000+ depending on parts used and you assembling. As I have learned from my recent 383/451 build, assembling a bunch of aftermarket parts into a well put together motor can take many hours of work, so expect the labor bill to add up in a hurry if you have a competent engine builder put it together for you.

My 383/451 build with "cleaned up" 346/516 heads, offset ground 440 crank, and iron rockers could probably be accomplished for under $4K

Good machine work and assembly add up quick. 8K doesn't sound bad IF the shop is doing all the work.

Thing is I just want a fairly stock 383. Its a 4 speed, factory exhaust manifolds, and I have to run the factory intake to clear the air grabber. I'm not looking for a speed demon. All I wanted was a 383-4 speed-3:55 posi car. original equipment.

Thing is I just want a fairly stock 383. Its a 4 speed, factory exhaust manifolds, and I have to run the factory intake to clear the air grabber. I'm not looking for a speed demon. All I wanted was a 383-4 speed-3:55 posi car. original equipment.

I have had engines built without dyno from shops I trust and no issues beyond easy to fix oil leaks. Dyno plus lots of new parts including stroker kit adds up fast. Shop around for an un-cracked head, rod(s) and skip the dyno and lots cheaper (stock stroke).

Personally, I would wonder why the rod bent? Also is 40 over OK or does it need to go 60? Are cylinder walls thick enough at 60? Agree it may be worth shopping for a better core engine to start with.

My last 440, about 4 years ago, totalled close enough to $10K as to make no difference. It was quite stout and everything was done right. Zero problems.
Stealth heads, Perf RPM intake, both ported, springs upgraded, beautiful valve job, solid Engle FT cam, Johnson lifters, Smith pushrods, perfected LY rods, Icon pistons, hand-fitted quality rings, Milodon pan & tray, alum water pump & housing, MSD, re-curved MP dist, forged OEM crank, ARP fasteners, Hedman headers. Already had the carb. Included break-in on a stand.
Quality parts haven't become any cheaper, nor has talented labor.

Years go, I had a stock 383 rebuild done, think it was maybe $5K, and that motor had numerous problems; had the top end back off later, and eventually it had a short life. False economy.

Stock type build should not cost 10,000. I would be tempted to go with the stealth heads and a better piston even for a mild build.

When did you have this built?

If you want it cheap find a running 383 and buy it.

If 10K is too much what do you feel is a reasonable price?

For that much money I would expect the only thing stock left to be the engine block. Are they putting it into the car for you as well?

Expensive prices for a mild stock rebuild are one way of them saying "I'm busy, but if you want to really fork it over I'll accommodate your project into my schedule". Shady body shop guys use this all the time to squeeze more money out of people than what the project would normally cost.

wondering options???
we in the tri state area are literally in the hub of engine builders!!!
there are many in our area.
shop around

1.LRB Performance Machine Company | NJ Racing Engine Shop
2. Ceralli Racing Engines & Checkered Flag Machine | Paterson, NJ 075
3. Andy Jensen's Engine Technologies. High performance engine
4.Engine Rebuilding Performance Marine & Vintage - Automotive ...
5.ACA Performance Automotive. Your premiere, full-service machine ...

and that is just scratching the surface!!

Where are you in nj?

But that's not what you said you were building. You indicated a stroker kit $$$, and major machine work $. There are more economical ways. If just looking to get a freshened up engine, use stock components. Can the crank be cleaned up? Stock rods for 383 can be found economically here, ebay, etc. Id splurge for new custom pistons since you probably want to boost compression ratio some. I have also seen reworked (basic valve work) 452 heads for $750 a pair. Ebay aluminum intake close to stock dimensions (there are a couple out there) or reuse the iron. The $7800 without heads seams high to me too, but it does all add up.

I would guess you can come in under $5k going with stock parts. Is the dyno session to tune it or just check for leaks? I used a k frame and made a run in stand to check for leaks.