So, I have a solid RB IndyMax block. At some time, it broke a rod, windowed the drivers side and also tagged #2 sleeve. I found a hole next to the sleeve that I think is the front to back oil galley that runs alongside the lifter bores. You can see a crack in the pics that shows the hole. Pete at Barton said that they don't want to touch it. They have actually repaired this type of damage before, but that "The engine wasn't right". He didn't elaborate on what he meant by that, but they tried to sell me a new engine block, if I could just give them some time to get them (Ha-ha!).

The lifters are not oil fed, but by Mopar guides, the passenger oil galley feeds the main bearings. So cutting out the damage and running pipe plugs into the ports is out. I was thinking of running a metal sleeve through the inside and JB weld it into place, along with as tight a press fit as I could reasonably get. I could plug both sides of the damaged area, and then run a crossover oil feed from the top side between the left and right oil galleys.

I'm trying to avoid a welding repair, because it will probably cause some block distortion at the cam bearing journals. The block is already sized for 55mm roller bearings, so I don't know how much room I have to correct a misalignment issue.

I’d say you’re on the right track with tubing the galley.
Welding makes everything move around and softens the material.
I would go with tube and run it.

I personally would get a die grinder in there and slowly grind out all the bad stuff first and then get a better eye in there with the mess gone. I too would rather not start welding in there unless I had too.

I have to come up with something to pull the sleeve out. That would allow a much better view of the damage. All of the sleeves are going to be replaced anyway.

Take vids of sleeve removal

I'll do my best. But it might not be pretty.

I'm just curious how hard it will be. A big slide hammer is what most use

How are you planning on fixing the drivers side window without welding

Window was previously repaired. If I can get the oil galley fixed, it will just need sleeves and decking. Oh, does anyone have a set of main cap hardware for sale? Block came with caps, but no studs, washers, nuts, crossbolts.

That's a dry sleeve block so the sleeves are hard to remove. I know my machine shop bores them out to remove.

Maybe consider fabricating a sturdy, adjustable foot (rest)on the sheild of an extended reach, pneumatic cutoff wheel. You could carefully control the depth of a vertical cut up each cylinder sleeve.Mavbe a second cut 180* in bore.I think this would take the fight out of removing the sleeve, similar to removing a bushing in a stubborn place.Accidental, minor dings in aluminum, away from the top or bottom of the bore, shouldent pose a problem.A SMALL amount of pencil thin torch heat applied sparingly to the newly cut groove may help it crack and ease removal(optional). Would save a trip to the machine shop and a fair amount of cash.

There is a local top fuel racer who has blocks that have been welded more times than you can count (yes, they're a low budget team!!). Their opinion is that as long as it didn't bust a main saddle then welding isn't an issue.

Send it back to Indy.They can repair it and remachine it if necessary.We have repaired much worse and have sent many to Indy for repair also.

weld a piece of 1 inch square stock inside the cylinder sleeve then use a big hammer and punch to drive the sleeve out. I know this sounds like a neanderthal move but it does work

Indy sleeves are tough MOFO's to remove for sure

What about welding a few beads in the sleeve all the way around to draw them in some? I use that technique on antifriction bearings when they don't want to come out and after the welding bead they pop right out,

Yep.
This is what I do to get sleeves out of diesel engines
Run the welds straight up and down like a piston travels