Any experiences with say....a 450 horse, 6000 max rpm 360 street/strip combo using a stock (4 quart?) oil pan??

It's baffled and I'm thinking a stock volume/pressure pump to keep the pan from potentially running dry. Don't want excess pressure either.

Windage tray to manage windage or not to speed up drain back or am I overthinking that?

Thanks in advance!

The stock OEM Mopar windage trays rob power from the motors they don't help according to all the NHRA stock class racers on the west coast (they remove them and don't use them)
A crankshaft scraper will help HP and help oil return into the stock oil pan with baffles, is your pan baffled front and rear or not?
Adding oil capacity would be very helpful to your motor, 4 quarts can be marginal for drag racing in the 1/4 mile
What year and body style is your car?

Sounds like your motor is done but if not, grind the flashing inside the block and paint the valley. Oil running back to the pan faster helps. Dual filters w/w/o oil cooler also adds capacity. Stock eliminator SB Mopars usually spin 6800-7500 rpms with a stock pan. Some run an accumulator, most don't. A tab or two in the pan to keep the pick up covered when de/accelerating should cover your needs. Good quality oil at the right level and changed frequently should do it.

X2

I've used crank scrapers in my bracket cars, Dart IHRA Stocker with an 8 qt. Milodon pan (with 5 qts.) and have one in my NHRA Aspen Stocker with an OEM style baffled Milodon pan.

I haven't been able to do any back-to-back comparisons, but from everything I've heard, read and just visualizing how everything works, a scraper helps.

They usually need some fitting to the counterweights & rods. Extra care is needed to make sure the front and rear pan rails seal because the scrapers are usually sandwiched between the block & pan rails. That drops the pan a bit. But I just add extra silicone on the outside, especially at the front & rear seals. Oil pan studs make things a bit more convenient, with or without a scraper.

I use a stock volume and pressure oil pump as well.

Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers

What's your theory behind it? Just curious as I'm in the same boat.

If I recall the stock windage tray was designed for the 340 and helped it out some. Using the same tray under the 360 with its longer arm throws is too tight resulting in the "oil cloud" being trapped around the rotating mass. That is my understanding anyway, hopefully some more knowledgable racers will chime in.

Some book I read way back had an suggested windage tray to rotating mass clearance and the stock 360 setup is no where close. The milodon tray is made to use with aftermarket studs made for their windage trays (milodon or ARP have them) which allow you to adjust the height of the tray using a nut abive and below where you want to set the tray. May want to look into that setup if you want to have one in your engine. The Milodon tray doesn't cover the front two rods since most stock oil pans don't have enough clearance there for a lower tray.

I bet on a dyno the windage tray may not help a thing, but in a car it will keep the oil in the sump, instead of churning in the crankshaft /rods, especially on a center sump pan with no baffles

I put lots of passes on a 400HP 340 with a stock pan. It did fine until I put slicks and a converter in it, then it didn't have good oil pressure for the first 30ft or so. It never went to zero but it dipped then recovered about the 60ft. When I tore it down all the bearings were copper. I put a Milodon 7qt pan on and it fixed that issue. A friend of mine had a similar combo that did not heed my advice and he spun a rod bearing.

My 360 has a stock crank and rods with flat top pistons. stock oil pan and I put a 340 windage tray in it. I run low 11's with it and my bearings look fine. If I can squeeze an ounce of more power out of it I will. I was always under the impression the the windage tray prevented oil sloshing back to a certain degree on hard launches. If I can get more power by tossing it into the garbage then I will. I just want a good reason why I should throw it away.

I couldn't of said it better myself & I am in the same boat. Tho I dont know if my WT is a 340 one or not (I thought the OE ones were the same?).

bolt spacing is a hair wider on the 360, that's all I know.

All the NHRA stock and SS SB (318,340 and 360) racer I know, record holders in multiple classes, ran faster in the 1/4 mile without the stock windage trays
They don't leave the front and rear of the sump stock either If yours is that way now you need to add (fabricate and weld in) baffles in front and the rear around the pickup to help keep the oil in the sump
I am surprised how many racers and engine builders won't take the action needed to fix some of the simple problems like this
One of the racers I use to help had a very high dollar all out class race motor build by one of the "better" mid west engine builder that had a stock unmodified oil pan on the motor and raced it for several years before begging me to help them again, I was helping another racer in the same class had had set the record in E/SA that was never exceeded, NHRA put that class record back to a NHRA minimum after two years on his record.
I had helped that couple many years before on another car but they had quit and came back.
The owner had always wanted to go as cheap as possible, cut every corner until they came back and bought that good motor.
I told them that the only way I would help them on a new motor was if they bought all new parts and let me build it the proper way and dyno test it, which they did
After refreshing their original motor and adding both baffles into the stock pan the driver commented after the first pass in the car with the freshen motor was what did you freaking do to my motor She had drove the car to a new best ET and MPH on that first run She said it had never pulled like it did in high gear before that and the low pressure oil light didn't come on after letting off in high gear
Never stop making things better

After my 340 I ran a junk 360 shortblock with nitrous and a stock oil pan. I don't recall if it had the oil pressure issue at launch or not, but with that engine I just didn't care so I probably didn't look at the oil pressure gauge until I got back to the pits lol.

The idea with a windage tray is to prevent the rotating assembly from picking up the oil in the pan. A spinning assy works like a suction pump in the block, as Smokey Yunick proved decades ago: it pulls the oil up and creates a "rope" around the crank & rods.
Scrapers serve to break up the suction, as well as stripping the spinning oil from the assy.
Even just a deeper pan helps, as it can be used to keep the oil further from the crank.
Drainback on sheet-metal trays can be assisted by directional louvers or using a mesh; the stock stuff is lacking in that regard.
Obviously, ensuring the pickup is ALWAYS submerged in oil is vital.
I've even seen the benefits of adding a deep pan & tray on a car hauler, where it improved the life of the big-inch, relatively slow-turning (rarely over 3000 RPM) engine. Add in higher RPM, launches, and hard braking that the truck didn't see...

An Accusump wouldn't hurt, using the stock pan. It's an easy way to add volume.

R.

First off, I'm not an expert with the SB. I'm putting together a Duster 340 to run stock and the man I got the engine from and his builder (the man to go to on the east coast with a LOT of dyno time) said use the windage tray and stock pump with the Magnum rear sump pan. I ran the pickup (3/4pipe, small blocks have a tiny pipe) straight off the pump cover down into the sump. I also machined the rear cap to accept the magnum pan and one piece gasket.
The 360 tray is different than the 340, got one on my 360-380.

If you have a stock MP tray you need to bend
open the louvers so they drain back better..
some of those trays were damn near closed off..
for years I have been running the tray and I
weld in baffles in both the front and rear to
help slow the oil and keep in in the sump.. if
you run a stock pan you HAVE to run at least
the baffles.. now days I run a BIG pan(home made)
and baffles and trap doors in the pan

Thanks all! Plenty of good info here. Myron, I had forgotten about the I-J scrapers...most likely will go that route.