I am shopping for a Cylinder Head CC Kit and wanted to get your opinions on which ones you use, and which one you would buy if you had to do it again.

-Dave

I have a home made set up.. the plate is Plexiglas
and use a 100 cc burette.. it works fine.. I use
to have a nice glass one but it broke.. so its
plastic now days

My son used tha same as Mikes.He did lots of heads at the HD shop.Hey Mike do any good deer hunting?Youngest got a nice doe.I dont shoot unless its a big buck.Rocky

I got a nice 4 point.. had to pass on a bunch of other
deer due to my license(had to be 4 points per side or more)
wife didnt get anything this year.. she did see a lot of
does but passed

I bought this one YEARS ago and love it. It easily packs away for storage.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-911581

I found that I dont need the burnett stand.. nice
but not needed.. I can hold it.. plus I wont
buy another glass one.. on mine the shut off
valve broke off so it was trash.. the plastic
one has the valve and works great and I can
drop it and its fine

Maybe if you had the stand you wouldn't drop it. LOL. I've never dropped mine, knock on wood.

It fell over when I bumped it with my elbow
while it was sitting on my iron welding table..
I'll take the plastic one any day

On the cheap and easy use a plexiglass plate and a large animal syringe from a farm store.

I did that for several sets of heads and then bought a isky 50 CC calibrated plastic tube, no good I finally bought a 100 CC glass burrette like the Summit one with a stand like that from a drug supply vendor in SO CA, that is the way to go in my opinion
That is what NHRA was using in tech tear downs also
I agree with Mike on the glass plate, a 5 inch square plastic plate is better I put a valve relief slot on one side to do Hemi heads that have been cut and have the edge of the intake valve above the head surface. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the middle and ended up filling it and put the filler hole up near one edge so it fill better by tilting the heads up to help fill the chambers
I also bought a small hand held grease gun and bought a needle tip to make the grease lay a thin bead around the chamber instead of doing that job by hand
IHTHs

I have the Summit one , I like it , price wasn't bad.

Thanks All,

Lots of good ideas. Didn't thing about plastic v/s glass. Our UPS folks could break an anvil so.... gonna keep that in mind when I pick one.

-Dave

hi
any one have one that holds more fluid as hemi heads use 160-180 cc.

i have to always carefully refill it at 100 cc?

I use graduated cylinders. They're dirt cheap on ebay and can be had in plastic or glass and just about any volume you want. My Burets are safely stored and never used anymore.
You don't really need to carefully fill to 100cc. Just as long as you record starting/ending volumes and can do grade-school math.

[quote=calrobb2000]hi
any one have one that holds more fluid as hemi heads use 160-180 cc.

i have to always carefully refill it at 1

You can look in a medical book and see what they have..
I have bought up to a 4000cc one so we could measure
out 1 gal accurately when in the fuel lab...
probably wont have a stand but check.. we had ones
that had a flat bases on them

X10. I use a Speedway plastic burette (dirt cheap) & drilled a hole about an inch or so (iirc) down from the top & JB welded in a short plastic nipple sideways into the tube then covered half of the top of the tube opening with "half" of a thin round disc so I could tilt it & pour out of the added nipple as opposed to out of the top as is as fluid was going down the outside of the burette. With the plastic plate I needed to drill the access hole slightly bigger & use a HF mini orange funnel held just a hair above the hole as opposed to just setting in there, same thing, fluid wanting to wick up. Have the head tilted just right & hold the funnel with one hand & pour with the other. Add some color to the fluid so it shows on the graduations better & you check the level in the middle as opposed to the sides where it curves up slightly (meniscus iirc, HS chemistry was in the 60's). using only enough fluid to cover how much is needed lets you tilt the burette less for less fluid escapeing but the top half cover/side nipple too care of most of that irritating problem (for a 65 CC head start with 80 CC's). grease the plate perimeter just right so grease doe not get squished into the chamber. On one SB the valve edge stuck past the deck so I cut a groove in the plate where the valve protruded then filled it with vaseline so I'd get a true reading.

Big plastic animal syringe and plate for me, it's not perfect, but its cheap, works fine, and easy to store

I used Amazon, and bought a 12"x12" by 1/2" thick Plexiglass $30

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C13Z6UI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AQODV8VBSAK4A&psc=1

I cut it into four 6"x6" parts. the 6"x6" seems to be a nice size to cover the chamber with.

100 ml Burette $33

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N264WOI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACTB8CBED46SR&psc=1

The problems I have with getting the Burettes from Amazon, it I have had several broken in shipping. Usually the tips get broken off.

Spring loaded burette clamp $15

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5F3QY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACTB8CBED46SR&psc=1

I took one of the 6"x6" plexiglass sheets and used it as a base for the burette stand. I used some 1/2 round tube laying around as the stand up-right to mount the clamp to. Drilled the plexiglass about 1/4" deep and slightly smaller than 1/2" to pilot the 1/2" tube. Heated the 1/2" tube nice and hot and pressed it into the plexiglass, then let it cool and the plexiglass glues itself to the 1/2 steel rod.

On the plexiglass that covers the cylinder head, I drilled the fill hole off to one side of the chamber. I had to enlarge the hole a few times, not sure what the size ended up as? I used a countersink to taper the top side of the hole.

451Mopar, sounds like a pretty cool setup. Any pics you could share??

-Dave

X2 here.