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Re: 4 LINK SUGGESTION
[Re: A/MP]
#2394960
10/29/17 06:16 PM
10/29/17 06:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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Most name brand companies are pretty closely matched. Most kits do not come with heim ends. If you find a four link kit with heim ends, you might save yourself a couple of dollars. Get a kit with the thickest lower bars they make. I like the Smith Racecraft stuff. I bought an outlaw ladder bar kit from them, came with really nice, thick four link axle brackets. Had good prices, too.
[image][/image]
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Re: 4 LINK SUGGESTION
[Re: A/MP]
#2395056
10/29/17 09:43 PM
10/29/17 09:43 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 326 Alberta
Wookie316
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 326
Alberta
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Yes ARB bar makes a huge difference.
1971 Plum Crazy Super Bee. 572 World Aluminum block with a Cope 727 & Dana 4.10 out back. 9.88 @ 138 with a 1.35 60 NA. Dialed back to 10.0’s. 4000 lbs with me in it.
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Re: 4 LINK SUGGESTION
[Re: A/MP]
#2395467
10/30/17 04:23 PM
10/30/17 04:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,373 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,373
Las Vegas
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IMO get one with the MOST adjustability you can afford! Some of the kits out there have 7-8 holes in the front bracket. IMO those will likely find you a good place to work with but changes that you make may have a large effect on IC. IMO if you can afford one with more adjustability(smaller bolts or sliders)the better off you will be in the end.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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Re: 4 LINK SUGGESTION
[Re: A/MP]
#2397648
11/03/17 01:17 AM
11/03/17 01:17 AM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,611 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,611
Fulton County, PA
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They aren't all the same and don't all have the correct geometry. Buy from a real race car shop, not someone who does street rods and other crap. Look at the brackets offered by Bickel and RJ for up to date designs, i.e. hole sizes, locations and spreads, provisions for shocks, etc. Different units have different provisions for shocks, wheelie bars, roll bars, etc. Get the one that suits how you will be doing your housing. I don't think anyone does them with .750" holes anymore, but avoid those. 1/2" holes with the corresponding tight hole spacing are the best way to go. Don't use junk rod ends.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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