I have inherited a 1968 J code Hemi. Its basically a re-body, only remaining of the car is roof/firewall (center section of the car). So it will never be a "nationals" class restoration.

So, I've decided a resto-mod car that is streetable yet, 10-11 sec car on the drag strip.

I apologize for my silly questions and ideas, just taking my fathers project and running with it. So, kind of taking his dream car that he wanted and how he wanted it.

I have no idea what is going on with all of these parts, but I am skilled in engine/restoring process (just in another auto manufacturer). So, I need your help.

Goals, resto-mod, sub 11 second car. Is an original 4 speed car.

He had the block machined, 20 over and is wrapped and ready to go. These other parts....dont look like much/stored terribly in a humid climate.

Should I stroke it? Sell these heads/parts? Start over?

Block is date-code correct(ish) is a june 67 date code.

Here is a link to some pictures:
https://goo.gl/photos/F37YpKsGZ8kZP7F4A

I just don't know where to start or what to do. Stroke, aftermarket heads, etc..? I hear the carbs are 100% correct and original and worth a mint. Just need some advice and direction.

I appreciate any feedback and ideas.

An otherwise stock 426 inch Hemi with a larger camshaft and headers should go deep into the 11's.
If you were starting from scratch I would recommend a 4.15 stroke crankshaft just because it will bring the power in earlier which makes it nicer to drive on the street but the 426 will make plenty of steam with stock heads and a few add-ons.
It looks like it is ready to go together, if it was mine it would be a bit of a hard decision but I think I would sell the stock rotating assembly, put in a 4.15 crank with light pistons, a 650 lift solid roller camshaft, TTI headers and a Stage V intake manifold with an injection setup. It would be easy to get low 11's this way and you could get it into the 10's if you wanted.
I would also install a scattershield, dual disc clutch with a 10.5 inch flywheel.
The less expensive choice and one which will keep the value of the car higher though is to make the car as stock as you can which is a good idea as you have a correct block and carbs. You could put it all together with stock intake and exhaust manifolds, a better than stock camshaft, 3 inch exhaust system and have it turning high 11's that way too.

When you say your block is date code correct, (June 67) which date are you referring to?

Awesome - great ideas.

Apologies - out in the garage now and it looks like a mid 1966 block. I have an 9/67 car. Maybe it is date correct, maybe not....I'm not sure.

Ok. Hemi blocks were cast in big batches in 1965 and 1966. They had so many that none were cast after 1966 until midway through the 68 production year, this is why all 67's and all 68 cars built before January 1968 had 1965 or 1966 casting date hemis in them. What was unique about 68's is that those 66 cast blocks had a VIN # stamped into them (previous years did not). So check your block for a number stamping in the rear top of the block just opposite the oil sending unit hole, it may be original to your car.

its blank, no numbers are stamped into the 66 block

Ok, is there anything stamped into the top pad?

blank as well....

And then begs the question, what is a crank/pistons/connecting rods set go for? VERY lightly used (less than 50 miles, was used, and taken out to stroke).

Will have to be cleaned/examined, but is otherwise good to go.

What is a rotating assembly as pictures sell for?

Do you see that big WT stamped in my example? Does your pad have that too or is it 100% clean/blank?

100% blank jist has the castings in the sides

Post a good clear-close up picture of your pad. I suspect the block may jave been decked, if so Id see how much, it could affect how you build it.

https://goo.gl/photos/m3Wx3mRgo4EEsKBb9

https://goo.gl/photos/6SsqnzN4iBESxWXb6

Trying to see if these links work

I'd like to correct your first post. A rebody is a car that all the panels with numbers and other Hemi only items are swapped to another rust free shell. This does not appear to be what you are doing here. There are several competent shops that could easily REPLACE all the body parts on your car that as needed. The amount of money you spend could be a deciding factor but I would not just right the car off for a factory restoration and start customizing it. No matter what you do to the motor, it still needs to be put back together properly. You could sell or trade that Hemi body for a rust free non Hemi car if a custom is what you want.

Umm...sorry, but the "definition" of a "rebody" is not defined by you or the above. It's far more complicated. Get real.

Based on what I can see that block has seen some race duty in its life (casting being smoothed and ground in the lifter galley, bronze lifter bushings, etc.) and it appears that it might have been decked long ago. So before buying any parts I'd recommend taking it to a good machine shop and have it magnufluxed for cracks, inspected for repairs and modifications as compared to stock (bore, deck height, etc.) and then put together a battle plan for the build.

FWIW I would also have someone Mopar knowledgeable look at the car, it may not be as bad as you imagine, most of them can be saved without the drastic move of doing a re-body, you'd be surprised.

.02

I've been with the car for 12 years and originally found the car motors in Texas. I hunted down what I was told was the correct block to the car, but now I'm thinking I was lied to. My father just handed it all over to me.

I say rebody because all that remains at the core of the project of the original car is the center section minis floors. Literally a skeleton with no nose or butt.

Can you post a pic of the car? The 66 casting date block would be generally correct replacement for your 68 car (depending on when the car was assembled) but its not an unmolested block so it should be checked out to see exactly whats been modified.

Quick story:

I found the car in texas like this:
http://s64.photobucket.com/user/cinez/library/RoadRunner

It had everything but the motor.

I sought out the ownership records and found what I was told was the original motor. I was lied to I think, but dad and I forked over the cash to get it. We had it magnafluxed, cleaned and found two cracks...it was bored 20 over, repaired and wrapped in plastic (in a moist storage bin until today).

We have the original title, it is a J code car...but it was in ROUGH shape.

I was lied to some more....and some more after that. I helped dad find parts, on and after that we started in on the body.

This was all that remains of the core J code car:

http://s64.photobucket.com/user/cinez/media/DSCN0753.jpg.html

I am sad that my dad lost so much on this car....has gotten too old to mess with it anymore and now I am trying to make sense of it all.

The block is seen here, as it was 10 years ago:
(PAGE 4)
http://s64.photobucket.com/user/cinez/library/68HEMI

I'm so overwhelmed.....