Found out yesterday that the 383 in my Super Bee was matching so now I have to rethink, I have a 440 for it ready to go in...

I think it is better to keep the 383 but it's not in the best condition. I haven't opened it since I pulled it last night but I guess it will need a total rebuild. Instead of doing all the work with crank, have the rods redone and buy new pistons I'm considering building a very mild stroker.
I have a fresh pair of 906's so what I pretty much need is a stroker kit, a cam kit and gaskets. I don't have an original intake either but I need something low so I can keep the original Air Grabber.
I want to keep the original converter and 3.23
I have a new mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust
Power steering and manual brakes, no AC

Let me know your opinions on a combo with stroker kit, cam and intake folks!
Do I have to say I'm on a budget...

Well, dollar for dollar, I would do this kit. Although it calculates to "only" 489 inches.

383 >> 496. (4.250" stroke/6.535" rod) Approximate Bobweight: 2150
Turn that docile factory 383 block into a fire breathing, pavement twisting engine of almost 500 cubic inches, and no one (even the car show judges) will ever be able to tell it's not a 383... until they go for a ride! The time has arrived to dust off those 383 blocks we've been leaving in the back of the garage all those years. Chrysler made 4 times as many 383's as they did 440's, and it's no longer necessary to dig up a 440 block to get almost 500 cubes! The low deck, 4.250" stroke version of our Platinum Series crank used in this kit has the smaller 2.200" (big block Chevy sized) journals, and the counterweights are finished at the smaller "B" engine size, to ensure they will drop right into the block with no counterweight clearancing issues. Depending on the block used, many of customers find this kit drops right in with no modifications whatsoever! We now offer fully chamfered "B" engine main bearings as an available upgrade! We keep all the kits listed below normally on our our shelf and ready to ship, usually within 24 hours!

Additional Kit options:
Upgrade to ARP2000 rod bolts: $75
Upgrade to Chamfered "B" engine main bearings: $80
Upgrade to Ultralight Crankshaft: $150 (Details HERE)

383 >> 496. (4.250" stroke/6.535" rod) Stroker Kits Available:

Bore Size: Dish (-) or Dome (+) CC's Compression Height: Distance Below Deck: 65CC 72CC 75CC 78CC 84CC 86CC 88CC Kit Part#:
4.280"
(.030 over) -4
(Flat-top) 1.320" -.000" 13.73 12.69 12.29 11.92 11.25 11.05 10.85 383.496.5040
4.310"
(.060 over) -4
(Flat-top) 1.320" -.000" 13.91 12.85 12.45 12.08 11.40 11.19 10.99 383.496.5050
4.280"
(.030 over) -20
(Dish) 1.320" -.000" 11.58 10.85 10.57 10.30 9.81 9.66 9.51 383.496.5042
4.310"
(.060 over) -20
(Dish) 1.320" -.000" 11.73 10.99 10.70 10.43 9.94 9.78 9.63 383.496.5052

Yup, it seems like 440 Source have the best pricing and from what I've heard they make good parts.

So what would be a good cam/intake combo for the low stall converter and 3.23?
A Performer intake gotta be miles better than the cast iron original?
Would a Thumpr or similar cam give to high compression pressure?

No one?
Power from idle to, lets say, 4,000rpm

On my 383/451 build I used a 440 source 3.915 crank and I was impressed with the quality and machining. Everything measured out pretty much perfect with rear main about .0004 bigger than the others, thrust end-play was .005, rod side play was .023,.022,.023,.023. I have yet to check indexing but I suspect it's pretty good.

You could do this same build with a 440 crank offset ground to 3.915, but I'm not sure how much $ you would save after the machining is done as the counterweight diameter will need to be trimmed too.

I talked to Dwayne Porter quite a bit on my 451 build and he mentioned that I should have punched the 383 .060 over if I was using 2.14/1.81 valves to reduce shrouding and eliminate possibility of valve touching cylinder wall. Dwayne was able to machine my heads to compensate for my "smallish" 4.280 bore, its just that 4.310 would be better.

For a 0-4000 cam, just about any properly degreed Hydraulic RV or stock 383 hp cam would work. For 1500-5800 with stock converter I'd talk to Dwayne. Good luck.

No, the Thumpr and their clones are primarily going after the sound of a lumpy idle. This is the exact opposite of what you want for a 0-4000rpm kind of car.

I'd pick the Hughes HUG SEH2024BL-11. 220/224 at 50, .503/.517 lift. It's ten degrees hotter than the 440HP cam and in your stroker it'd be a real tire-melter.

People will tell you that "strokers eat duration" but this engine isn't that much different than the big musclecar engines in GM intermediates in the late '60s-early '70s. The Olds W-30 cam was 233/233 at 50 lift and people complained because it needed 3.90+ gears to work well.

I'd suggest you start looking for an Edelbrock DP4B The best thing to read is Hot Rod's 383 intake test. The Performer would be a good choice, the Performer RPM would be an even better choice if it'll fit. Others will know more than me on this.

Keep remembering that you aren't building a race engine.

Good Luck,

R.