OK, I am more than likely going with a 360 carb motor and am going to try and keep it kind of cheap, not cheapo, but no 392 HEMI or 5.7 computer motor, ect. I may even go with a 273, just because I have this dual quad manifold, who knows.

I now need to order my cross member from fatman for the mustang II conversion and start deciding on what else I may need.

I have been wondering what type of gas tank fits in these well and where to place it? Can I use a tank from a junk yard vehicle, if so, what kind or am I going to need a more pricy rod style? I dont mind, just need to start a nice list and see what I am looking at.

I also want to use some sort of aftermarket style tail lights, turn signals, ect. Not being a Rod guy, this is new to me. What is a decent brand and what company makes decent items like the panels to french in if that nice, or what?

Also, lets talk wiring harnesses, I know painless is nice and pricey, but there are LOTS of other out there. Any one have experience with these and what decent for the money. How many fuses does one need??? I am going with some AC, afterkarket probably as this will be a driver and maybe a longer distance vehicle. It will have electric windows( which I also need to decide on a brand) a nice stereo and down the road, who knows, so I dont mind getting a larger one for options later.

what else should I consider. I have finally gotten a few bils paid off( lots more to go) but at least this summer I can buy some parts and get this going.

So,

GAS TANK

WIRING HARNESS

POWER WINDOW SYSTEM

SEATS. CUSTOM AND POWER OR OUT OF A VEHICLE OF SOME SORT AND REDONE?

TAIL LIGHTS

WHAT ELSE??????

THANKS FOR ANY OPINIONS AS ITS ALL NEW TO ME. I am trying to get my 67 dart done, get on this 38, get the (once easy 67 short wide power wagon resto) now major project with new sheet metal, all going a lot further along this summer, not to mention painting YOUNGUNNERS(MOPARTS MEMBERS) vehicle and get the new quarters on my 72 340 cuda-------- Now that I know I have a job until June of 2010, I am good for a while.

Also, ahve any cool custom ideas????? Let me know. I wish I had RON here, I would chop this thing and learn from the master>

here is a pic

Dave

I have been cutting some rust out with the ole plasma cutter and pulling the one solo dent out of the trunk panel. Its now down to bare metal for the most part, the fenders, and the rest have yet to be stripped. Once I get the cross member, I will remove the body and start doing whats needed on the frame.

Dave

I'd start with a measurement between the framerails at the rear...I like to use rear feed gas tanks (B and C-bodies) if they'll fit, for the symmetry of hiding the filler in behind the license plate. If I gotta have one there anyways, it might as well serve a purpose...

I used Poly tank from Yogi's made by Tanks Inc.
E Z wiring harness, seats from Dakota or Durango.

Rod stuff is pricy due to a one time sale. Try looking at race car stuff; it's usually cheaper for the same or better quality, since they sell multiple times. Is there a roundy round track nearby? Talk to the racers.
Tanks are either custom fit or generic. The custom stuff is pricy. If there is a race fab shop, see what they would charge to build one. Many times, it will be the same as the net one for your application.
Wiring is usually get what you pay for.
There are name seats for rods, but again, it's a one time sale. When you have the steering pretty much sorted, jam stuff in there until you are comfortable, then measure. As mentioned, a Dakota might be a good source. Since I'm tall, I usually end up looking though the top third of the windshield, and like to be as far back as practical. My eyes usually end up even or a few inches ahead of the B pillar. If you are behind the B pillar, you have blind spots. On the older stuff, this may happen. Try to compromise the best vision and comfort so it's to your liking, and anyone who will also drive the car. If you usually sit at 3 clicks up from all the way back, set it up that way. If you end up selling the car, you want it to fit more than yourself. Of course, if you are 5'5" and building a chopped Model A, build it to fit you since there is no way to fit anyone over 5'10".

While you are talking to the race fab shop, get a feeling for the other stuff they may have that can be incorporated. Circle track stuff has to be reasonable, last, and be safe. Not a bad combo for a rod.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the gas tank on my 40 and I bet on your 38 are offset to the driver's side. The neck goes up to the fender, and the exhaust is only on the passenger side. If you plan on dual exhaust, you will have to make changes.

For the gas tank on my 39, I built mine from 14 guage steel sheet. Measured the original tank, changed the things I wanted for clearance and stuff, then went to a local metal bending place. They bent the top, front, bottom, and rear from one piece then cut both ends and a center baffel. Put a short piece of pipe the diameter the fill tube needed to be, and located that and cut the hole for a tap in fit. Test mounted the fuel guage sending unit that matched the guage I was running and located that so the swing arm would clear everything. NAPA has a universal guage and sending unit that has a screw in sending unit and a genaric looking guage that is reasonably priced. Once all the holes are cut for the filler tube and the sending unit, I welded up the seam between the top and the rear. Then I positioned the baffel about the center, to miss the sending unit arm swing and welded it in at the top, botton, front and rear. Then I welded in both ends. I presureized the finished tank with air and checked all the weld seams with a water bottle for leaks. Mark and reweld any leaks found, redo until there are no leaks left. Install the sending unit, filler tube, and paint the outside the color of your choice. Install the tank. Think the whole thing was under $100 and it fit like it was made for the car, because it was.

When it comes to seats, take as much time as required to get them into the correct position for you. Nothing ruins a car faster then poor seating position. I've spent days getting the seat right for the cars I intend on driving. The only requirement for the seats is they have to fit in the car, in the proper location. The coupe has a lot of room for seats for 2 people. Your probably going to have to get them recovered to match the interior, pick confy seats. Gene

Dave, these kind of cars are the most fun to build, they are free form, not a color by numbers kind of car like a muscle car resto!

First thing I'd do is figure out what you want. Hot rod, custom, or just a modified driver? 50's or 60's style? 70's or later?

A stock '38 Plymouth Coupe is a good looking car, you won't have to do much to the outside unless YOU want to. Don't modify it just to modify it, a fairly stock exterior over a lowered modern chassis would be a good start. I'd go to a few shows and see what ideas you liked on other cars and see how you could apply it to your car.

Really want it chopped? It really isn't that difficult to do, there's a really good book by Tex Smith about chopping cars. You're already cutting and welding patches, so you can do it too.

You might just focus on the suspension, steering, brakes, and wheel/tire combo for now, and let the rest develope as you finish up those projects. You will need to do them anyways, and this will give you time to figure out exactly what you want.

A carbed v8 and automatic tranny is about the simplest swap into anything, and you'll need to put that in there to figure out where other things like steering, etc will be going.

As far as gas tanks and seats, this stuff isn't rocket science, go to a junkyard with a tape measure and have at it!

Here's a pic of the gastank Yogi's sells in my 37 coupe & I'm not using it anymore (I pm-ed you LAWFISH). It works great. Ferlin

I used Dodge Neon third break light assemblies on my 37 coupe, I had to open up the socket hole to accept the socket from the tail lights (of the same Neon). They fit the curve of the rear pan well & I can get new parts from the dealer if I need them, plus I paid $5 for everthing not the big $$$$$ from a street rod store!
Ferlin

Another.....

Alot of aftermarket fuel cells have adapters for remote fills, and are fairly inexpensive.
Junkyard tanks are easy to come by too, just make sure they look to be in decent shape. Many imports have smaller, easy to install tanks, we've used a few...
The B and C body tanks will probably be too long. I had one customized for my Coupe when I first got it on the road, it had to be basically cut in half, the distance from the rear to the rear of the trunk is too short, on my 1940 Coupe anyways...

LAWFISH, it went to the original hole in the drivers side rear fender.
Ferlin

Well, sad to say I am not much further along than last year. I bought Ferlin's gas tank and will see if I cna use it this winter. I painted three gas pumps, most of my dodge truck and worked on the cuda vert this summer, oh and the 67 Dart. Since I can not paint in the winter I tend to do the heavy stuff, take down, fab, ect and paint all I can in the summer. I had to get all these small projects out of the way. oH, AND i BOUGHT THE 5.7 hemi FOR THE PROJECT.

And I had to change job again. Now that said, ITS TIME YO GET SERIOUS AND ORDER THE fatman FRONT END. I thought I knew what color I wanted, but now I am not so sure. I want this to look more old school (I think).

However I guess I need to remove the car from the frame and post some pics so I know where to start as I have no idea. Its a full frame with a huge cross in the center I need to know what to keep and what to remove on that and how to install the FATMAN front cross member.

I am a total novice and need some advice once the body is off.

Dave