Need advise/38 Plymouth build- gas tank, and lots more!

OK, I am more than likely going with a 360 carb motor and am going to try and keep it kind of cheap, not cheapo, but no 392 HEMI or 5.7 computer motor, ect. I may even go with a 273, just because I have this dual quad manifold, who knows.

I now need to order my cross member from fatman for the mustang II conversion and start deciding on what else I may need.

I have been wondering what type of gas tank fits in these well and where to place it? Can I use a tank from a junk yard vehicle, if so, what kind or am I going to need a more pricy rod style? I dont mind, just need to start a nice list and see what I am looking at.

I also want to use some sort of aftermarket style tail lights, turn signals, ect. Not being a Rod guy, this is new to me. What is a decent brand and what company makes decent items like the panels to french in if that nice, or what?

Also, lets talk wiring harnesses, I know painless is nice and pricey, but there are LOTS of other out there. Any one have experience with these and what decent for the money. How many fuses does one need??? I am going with some AC, afterkarket probably as this will be a driver and maybe a longer distance vehicle. It will have electric windows( which I also need to decide on a brand) a nice stereo and down the road, who knows, so I dont mind getting a larger one for options later.

what else should I consider. I have finally gotten a few bils paid off( lots more to go) but at least this summer I can buy some parts and get this going.

So,

GAS TANK

WIRING HARNESS

POWER WINDOW SYSTEM

SEATS. CUSTOM AND POWER OR OUT OF A VEHICLE OF SOME SORT AND REDONE?

TAIL LIGHTS

WHAT ELSE??????

THANKS FOR ANY OPINIONS AS ITS ALL NEW TO ME. I am trying to get my 67 dart done, get on this 38, get the (once easy 67 short wide power wagon resto) now major project with new sheet metal, all going a lot further along this summer, not to mention painting YOUNGUNNERS(MOPARTS MEMBERS) vehicle and get the new quarters on my 72 340 cuda-------- Now that I know I have a job until June of 2010, I am good for a while.

Also, ahve any cool custom ideas????? Let me know. I wish I had RON here, I would chop this thing and learn from the master>

here is a pic

Dave

I have been cutting some rust out with the ole plasma cutter and pulling the one solo dent out of the trunk panel. Its now down to bare metal for the most part, the fenders, and the rest have yet to be stripped. Once I get the cross member, I will remove the body and start doing whats needed on the frame.

Dave

I'd start with a measurement between the framerails at the rear...I like to use rear feed gas tanks (B and C-bodies) if they'll fit, for the symmetry of hiding the filler in behind the license plate. If I gotta have one there anyways, it might as well serve a purpose...

I used Poly tank from Yogi's made by Tanks Inc.
E Z wiring harness, seats from Dakota or Durango.

Rod stuff is pricy due to a one time sale. Try looking at race car stuff; it's usually cheaper for the same or better quality, since they sell multiple times. Is there a roundy round track nearby? Talk to the racers.
Tanks are either custom fit or generic. The custom stuff is pricy. If there is a race fab shop, see what they would charge to build one. Many times, it will be the same as the net one for your application.
Wiring is usually get what you pay for.
There are name seats for rods, but again, it's a one time sale. When you have the steering pretty much sorted, jam stuff in there until you are comfortable, then measure. As mentioned, a Dakota might be a good source. Since I'm tall, I usually end up looking though the top third of the windshield, and like to be as far back as practical. My eyes usually end up even or a few inches ahead of the B pillar. If you are behind the B pillar, you have blind spots. On the older stuff, this may happen. Try to compromise the best vision and comfort so it's to your liking, and anyone who will also drive the car. If you usually sit at 3 clicks up from all the way back, set it up that way. If you end up selling the car, you want it to fit more than yourself. Of course, if you are 5'5" and building a chopped Model A, build it to fit you since there is no way to fit anyone over 5'10".

While you are talking to the race fab shop, get a feeling for the other stuff they may have that can be incorporated. Circle track stuff has to be reasonable, last, and be safe. Not a bad combo for a rod.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the gas tank on my 40 and I bet on your 38 are offset to the driver's side. The neck goes up to the fender, and the exhaust is only on the passenger side. If you plan on dual exhaust, you will have to make changes.

Quote:

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Rod stuff is pricy due to a one time sale. Try looking at race car stuff; it's usually cheaper for the same or better quality, since they sell multiple times. Is there a roundy round track nearby? Talk to the racers.
Tanks are either custom fit or generic. The custom stuff is pricy. If there is a race fab shop, see what they would charge to build one. Many times, it will be the same as the net one for your application.
Wiring is usually get what you pay for.
There are name seats for rods, but again, it's a one time sale. When you have the steering pretty much sorted, jam stuff in there until you are comfortable, then measure. As mentioned, a Dakota might be a good source. Since I'm tall, I usually end up looking though the top third of the windshield, and like to be as far back as practical. My eyes usually end up even or a few inches ahead of the B pillar. If you are behind the B pillar, you have blind spots. On the older stuff, this may happen. Try to compromise the best vision and comfort so it's to your liking, and anyone who will also drive the car. If you usually sit at 3 clicks up from all the way back, set it up that way. If you end up selling the car, you want it to fit more than yourself. Of course, if you are 5'5" and building a chopped Model A, build it to fit you since there is no way to fit anyone over 5'10".

While you are talking to the race fab shop, get a feeling for the other stuff they may have that can be incorporated. Circle track stuff has to be reasonable, last, and be safe. Not a bad combo for a rod.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the gas tank on my 40 and I bet on your 38 are offset to the driver's side. The neck goes up to the fender, and the exhaust is only on the passenger side. If you plan on dual exhaust, you will have to make changes.

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The fender side is fine as I actually prefer making a custom filler opening i the fender, ect. I am still learning the metal fab and like doing some oddball things or tank door, ect.

Dave