Andy and I have brought CNP (Coil-Near-Plug) to the Mopar crowd. This will fit any B or RB Mopar, will not interfere with any head and is plug-and-play with either the Holley HP or Dominator EFI systems. Crank is 36-1 and cam is one pulse per rev. Both Crank and Cam sensors are Hall-Effect and stable at any RPM. Andy's product quality comes through again.

That should be a cool deal for those who can't build there own.

I want one! Price?

Looks good Rich, nice job getting the harness built.

I have the SB cam sync drawn up and will build some when I do the next batch of parts.

Looks Nice!

Very nice and clean looking. I bought my dual sync distributor 6 months too soon! Oh Well.

Prices are on my web site under Products/CNP Products

Rich
fastmanefi.com

For us Luddites, can you explain something? If the crank sensor tells the system where the motor is, why does it need a cam sensor?

Does this use 8 coils, with a wire to each plug? COuld it be used with coil on plug in a 426 Hemi?

THanks, Joel

Someday I hope to have EFI...........

It works great on a 426 HEMI since the HEMI is an RB block.
Yes, 8 coils with a coil to each plug.

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Below is from my web site. There will be a quiz afterwards!!!
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Why go CNP?

Coil-Near-Plug is used on almost all modern engines. OEMs do this to virtually eliminate ignition noise from modern heavily computer populated cars. It eliminates the ignition coil and distributor, and it also allows for individual cylinder timing adjustments. Spark energy increases because the coils have plenty of time for dwell saturation regardless of RPM. And EFI data logging is so robust that a separate data logger is not needed.


A Quick CNP Tutorial

The ECU must know when to fire each coil. There are two ways to do this:


Waste spark with missing tooth trigger wheel:

When the ECU sees the gap on a 36X or 58X trigger wheel it knows that the engine is coming up to TDC for either cylinder number 1 OR number 6 (assuming a 18436572 firing order). It cannot tell which coil to fire since both are coming up to TDC, but only one is starting the power stroke while the other is starting the intake stroke. So the ECU will fire BOTH #1 and #6 coils thereby wasting a spark. This is an acceptable technique that can be used if there is no cam sensor, however the trigger wheel must be a missing tooth style, and individual cylinder timing control is not possible.


Sequential spark using a CAM sensor:

A cam sensor generates one pulse, or edge, per camshaft revolution. This allows the ECU to be in sync with the engine’s cycle and fire only one coil, thereby not wasting a spark, and the ECU can also control individual cylinder timing.

Since the cam sensor synchronizes the ECU to the engine cycle the crank trigger wheel does not have to be a missing tooth style. A typical configuration would be a trigger wheel with four magnets and the pickup. However, you can use the 36X or 58X style wheels with a cam sensor as well. In fact, the missing tooth wheel is preferred because the timing is more accurate during rapid changes in engine RPM. Using a CAM sensor is better than the waste spark method.

Here is the most recent picture of the coils mounted on the valve cover. I had the brackets anodized black so they match the coils. Custom wires from Firecore are the finishing touch.

With the coils mounted this way the wires tuck in nicely between the header tubes. I should have this setup back on the dyno in a few weeks. It will be interesting to see how it works with the individual cylinder control.

I see you have the ign1/Holley coils. I just put a set on a guys car to replace a set of "heat sink" GM coils. The car now has a quiet, yet noticeable high frequency "buzz" sound from the coils with the key on/ engine off. Do they all do this, or do I have something going on?

These smart coils sometimes have a high frequency buzz because of their internal oscillator, but you don't hear it when the engine is running. I wouldn't worry about it.

The CNP stuff is definitely the way to go anymore. I'm fortunate enough to get close up looks at the fastest PM, and radial cars in the world while they're being built. The mags are even going away in favor of CNP in PM turbo cars too.

Way to go Rich!

Thanks for the trust with the ignition wires, both Andy and Rich!! Looks killer..

Thanks for the trust with the ignition wires, both Andy and Rich!! Looks killer..

I would love to put one on my 572 hemi, but until I finish the car, I have to hold off on modifying things....Rich, is it possible to put a dual sync without having a separate crank sensor, something like the jeep one? Tim

Yes. Holley offers their dual-sync dizzy with a cover instead of plug wire terminals. Then you have both Cam and Crank signals ready to go for CNP. Andy and I are working on a smaller engine position module that does the same thing but in a much smaller package.

Does anyone make a cover (cap replacement) for the old Mopar steel/iron distributors? I have a small block tach drive distributor. I would like to go to CnP, keep the mechanical tach and not have to leave the empty distributor cap on the distributor.

Bill

Not that I'm aware of, but I'm sure someone could make one.