the motor in my 99 locked up,(4.0 coil pack) got a nice 50k mile replacement, 2004. the swap seemed to go pretty straight forward and simple, everything seemed to be the same except for a few sensors, oil pressure and motor temp, but it wont start. sounds like it wants to, swapped out the crank sensor on the trans bell housing with no diffrence, i reset the cam position sensor bringing the motor up to top dead center, and it drops in to the right position and still a no start. now when i turn cam sensor clockwise well out of position until it cant go no more up against the block it will start and run, but this is no where right, i got an idea what my next move is, but id like to hear any and all opinions before i proceed

Did you use the toothpick trick to line up the slot before dropping the cam sensor /oil pump drive into place? need a scan tool to read and learn crank /cam correlation. The cam sensor controls the injectors firing.

yes, did the toothpick trick with no shortcuts, bringing the motor to top dead center on the compression stroke, even pulling the spark plug on the number one cylinder, and the cam sensor drops in the correct position, and still a no start, but again if i twist it clock wise until i cant go anymore and its up against the block, it will start. all i can think, somehow it jumped time. not looking forward to pulling the front of the motor to get to the timing chain. not i big deal just like to see if anyone else out there can tell me different. is it possible when im turning the cam sensor that far out of position that it would be giving the fuel ejectors fuel 100% all the time? or is something just out of time??????? any input is appreciated.

are you sure the plug wires are not off by one hole?

coil pack no wires....does it make any sense that the timing chain jumped a tooth?(chain not belt) seems unlikely but cant think of what else it might be. anyone else ever have a motor jump time?

sounds like out of time problem but shoot seems unlikely chain jumped wrong sensor ?

yep ; until i pull a timing chain cover i wont know, but seems highly unlikely, if im lining up the timing marks on the crank, and pulling the number 1 spark plug with the piston feeling like its all the way up in the cylinder, makes me wonder how much one tooth off IS noticeable in the top dead center potion???? and i have swapped out two different sensors with no difference

A compression test might help. usually when a chain is off, compression reading will be all over the map. some way high, and some lower. if you find all pretty equal, I would bet chain is fine. I don't think I ever did a chain on a 4.0 for jump timing. If you turn cam sensor housing to get it running, how does it sound? if you have it running, get a vacuum reading, jumped chain will also have low vacuum.usually around 20 in. of vacuum is normal. Do you have access to a scan tool to read the sensors? timing is controlled by the PCM, cam sensor just fires / sync's the injectors. did you set TDC feeling the piston or go by the balancer? maybe the balancer mark is off?

i did both i put it on the mark and felt the piston come up with a piece of rigid wire but you have me thinking about the PCM. i heard the motor run before i pulled it and swapped it, and when i did set the cam sensor it falls in on the right position making me think the timing is good. do you think it could possibly be the crank sensor on the transmission bell housing too close? someone told me it usually comes with a tab at the end that tears off once the torque converter is in motion ???? i really appreciate your help kurt

That is a simple 180* on and 180* off sensor. You might just need to move it around a few teeth until it will bolt in and run fine. There is two times I have had the cam sensor(out which is also a distributor on mine) on my 97 and both times it has been a PITA to get back in correctly. I know last time I had to abandon the procedure I found online because it didn't work.

Did you use the same flex plate or flywheel from the original motor?

no did not think of looking at that ??? but it bolted up with no problem ???

now ....do i pull the trans????? or motor ?????

The engine came out of same vehicle? guessing it is a grand cherokee.? The rear drive plate / flywheel is same part number 99 and 2004.as is the oil pump drive, the sensors are a different part number, but that is probably because the connectors changed.was this a 50,000 mile original engine or 50,000 miles on a rebuilt engine? move the oil pump drive 1 tooth and see what happens, see how it runs. cylinder #1 is the very front.

its a 04 motor with 50 k original miles. when i researched (ebay) flywheel for a 99, i think it said it was compatible 96-01, thats what im going off of, the jeep i pulled the motor from was in an accident but i heard the motor run. so i have both vehicles the 99 and the donor jeep 04, so i have two of everything, and have swapped out the sensors and the connectors are the same, but i will take your advice and try moving it, a tooth if thats possible, i guess really you're not aliening the hole you but the toothpick in. and maybe i do my homework a little more before i start yanking stuff apart. again i thank all input. definitely getting closer.