still hitting part of the dr motor mount if i want the engine centered in the bay. big issue now is oil filter hits k member before the engine plate sets on the frame rail. looks like an inch to go before the plate will sit down on the frame rail. using a milodon oil pump and im guessing its thicker than a melling. would appreciate some input if anyone knows how to make this BB with engine plate fit an A body K member. thanks

Just asking, why are you trying to center the motor? And are you using a stock K member?

I guess it really doesn't have to be centered, so i'm ok there. I still have the issue with the oil filter hitting the stock A body K member. that was with the engine slide as far back as I could go with the plate before it hits the inner fender/frame intersect. i'll have to look again,but not sure I can move engine far enough forward for oil filter to clear K member. I need some room for the fan/radiator.

The first rule of hot rodding is that "a random collection of aftermarket parts will not fit together". This has been proven many times in the past it sounds like you are proving it again.

The A body K frame wasn't designed for a big block with a Milodon pump so there is no reason it should fit. If those are the parts you want to use then you'll have to make it fit.

Are you using the Milodon billet pump or the really big Milodon cast pump? The billet pump is about the size of a HV Melling pump so you might get it to fit. I've seen A body cars with remote filters so it is probably an issue depending on the K frame used. Radiator clearance is a problem with the A body swap also so no surprise there.

yes Andy, i'm good at proving after market go fast parts don't just bolt right on without issues. The milodon pump is the billet pump I bought from you a few months ago. I can slide the engine forward for some oil filter cleance, but not sure how far before the fan would be into the radiator. Does the motor plate have to set down onto the frame fails or can it be mounted up with it elevated above the rails?

You have to be careful how high you go up. The headers start hitting everything.

Seems to me it would have been easier to find a spool mount K member and buy the kit to make it into the conversion K member or whatever they called it. Seems there is (or was) a kit that DC sold.

That was a long time ago though.

never used an engine plate before. I could set the plate on the mounting plate brackets and gain some clearance, maybe 1/4". with that and sliding engine forward a bit I might find the clearance I need. thanks

i'll see what I can find on that. may be my last resort. thanks

I don't understand why you think you can slide the engine forward or backwards. The transmission mount requires that the engine sit in one location only. If you have one of my motor plates then it puts the engine offset to the passenger side by the correct amount to line up with the driveshaft. If it is one of my motor plates then the motor plate should sit on the frame rails. That is where TTI wants the engine to sit for their headers to work.

Are you using andy f's plate ?
I have no pump contact issues but I do have a remote filter .
I can take some pics if you want just PM me your number .

I used Schumacher spool mounts, and a melling pump. I had to do some clearance, and welding. Just big block a body blues i guess.

I have my front plate above the frame rail and the oil pan in stock location 1" above the k member and 1.5" to the pass side in stock location for a b body,yours may be 1" offset.Moving the engine forward,rear is limited by the trans mount a lot,maybe 3/4" total so the more you keep it stock the better to prevent problems with other things.The front frame mount for the plate is about the last thing to put in welding it unless you measured prior.Keep in mind that if your header tube goes around the torsion bar will limit the engine location also unless you want to move that tube a little to adjust it.
ps: Having the trans mount connected but loose will help you find where to put the engine.I used a floor jack under the oil pan to hold the engine up with a board between it and the pan and move the engine like that.

If I recall, is the motor mount a big part of the steering mount?
If not, cut that sucker off and reinforce the steering mount anyway.
Even if the motor mount takes up a lot of the steering mount walls, it can be cut away and with a little finagle here and there, be welded shut for a clean,strong steering mount with some room to get the engine in.
My engine is all the way back and has about a half inch away from the steering/motor mount or what was the motor mount. I cut it clean away and shaved it down to a smooth surface. Looks factory.

Now that you say that I did the same on mine .
6cly. K-frame .

Sometimes you just need to get creative when you fit things where they didn't fit before.

yes, using your plate. I sloted the trans mount so i could move the engine rearward or forward if need be. This helps, i will just set plate on frame and and against inner fender on pass. side. still need to clearance that oil filter to K member thou. also, i'll just set trans mount in center and tighten it up on next try. Thanks

Yes, send pics when you get a chance. pics are good. Thanks

a493demon, we have the same K member.
Hemi, looks clean. I can't see where you hammered or clearanced for the oil filter on the K. So, can the plate sit on top of the plate L brackets or should the L brackets just sit up against the plate and be mounted that way? on top would buy me a little clearance for filter. I cut the dr. motor mount off, but may need just a touce of trimming. not sure how to clearance the K yet, I'm sure thats some heavy metal there.

Sounds like a lot of work. Little tweaking, your smallblock would of run 9's easily before it grenaded.

I believe your right, but it wasn't in the cards for me. my long term plan is to sell the car with a big block and buy a dodge demon with small block and 4 speed. I'v always liked the demons. just thought my car with a BB would be an easier sale. I think there all alot of work.