It's like the owner of the gentlemen's club said to the new performer, "Ya gotta take it all off."

And you won't even get dollar bills thrown at you while you're doing it.

Obviously there's a layer that is hardly bonded and you have to get below that layer. Sorry.

R.

Guys at the autobody supply place said they think it was lacquer primer. I don't know what to use to strip the rest of the hood. There are parts that are really stuck on and I really don't want to strip all the filler too. I don't mind a skim coat of the glaze here and there, but I don't have experience with using body filler.

At this point I'm not stripping the whole vehicle. I don't have the money to redo it all.

I stripped the hood to bare metal and sprayed a quart of epoxy primer today. Should I sand the epoxy primer before the 2k filler primer? The epoxy did not come out really smooth (ie. orange peel).

Epoxy generally doesn't need sanded if recoated in a short window.Some are also sticky or rubbery and clog paper easily,an exception is SPI brand epoxy,it sands easily after 12 hours.If you are doing bodywork/filler over the epoxy,I'd sand it lightly (so you don't sand through)with 220 grit paper and use a red scotch brite scuff pad on the edges.
RT

Thanks RTS. It says to topcoat within 72 hours. I just primered today, so I'm within the window. I just didn't know if I could/ should sand it to smooth it out.

Do I put filler over the epoxy or wait until I apply the 2k filler primer?

Here's what I would do now. If you only have epoxy on do the filler work over that. Maybe hit the areas you know would need filler with 40-80 grit. Sand smooth with 80 then 120-180. If still in the 72 hr window, put 3 coats of 2k fill primer. If not hit entire hood with red scotchbrite the 2k primer. Block sand with 180 and do any glaze work. hit with 2 more coats fill primer and block sand with 220 then 320 then 400. Once satisfied, epoxy prime with a slightly thinned epoxy and wait 1-2 hrs and paint

Thanks Hustlestuff.
You mention using epoxy primer as the final step before paint. What is the reason for this? I can lay the 2k much more smooth than the epoxy. (But the first time I sprayed the epoxy I didn't thin at all.) I thought the paint would go over the final blocked 2k.


Things have progressing slowly with the hood. When I stripped the hood, it removed the body filler and glaze. I've been having a problem getting both sides to look consistent. I had no problem filling little imperfections, but getting the hood lip and curves to look right has taken a lot of time.

I'm about to the point of where it was 1 week ago. I need to hit it with 2 more coats and do the block sand. But I ran out of primer (again) so will need to make another trip to the paint store...

So I took Hustlestuff's recommendation and hit it with some thinned epoxy. It sprayed way better than the first time I sprayed it! I'm a little cautious about putting paint right away though. I think I'm going to wait until tomorrow.

The Epoxy is used as a sealer. Basically keeping the paint from reacting to anything below it. I usually wait and hour or so after spraying to paint and usually use the same reducer in epoxy as I do in paint

Is it a problem if I let it sit overnight and wet sand it tomorrow?

I could have painted it after the epoxy, but I waited. Scuffed it and shot it today. Overall not bad. There is one spot where a trim hole was welded - needed a touch more filler. Next time!

The reason for painting soon after epoxy is that everything should be sanded and ready for paint. You wax and degrease the spray epoxy and once it flashes you spray the color. Less steps. Mike