1969 Charger, does the concave side go towards the bushing like original, or face away like Moog improved? These are all I can find right now in my myriad of new parts acquired for three cars, and I'd just like to get this thing back on the road. Some people say they are junk. With the sleeve they supply, the bushings will compress .3". That seems like a lot for how hard these bushings are. I see how people are complaining about them splitting in no time. Others say they have over 10,000 miles on them without problems. Would Moog be better, or just wait and see if they last? Either way, I need help.

I would think you would want the concave side facing the bushing for the most contact area. Any pics? which ones do you have right now?

just did all this last year on a 69 RR. the 'cup' goes towards the bushing.

Agreed, to the OP if you want to avoid failure, install them with the lube supplied, don't use any petroleum based products on Poly suspension bushings, tighten components at loaded ride height

This is what I have. Kit did not come with washers, instructions, or grease. I have silicone brake grease, and silicone electrical grease if I'm suppose to use something like that as someone suggested.



The sleeve included is .3" shorter than the free length of the stacked bushings. I don't see how these can compress that much without splitting in short order. I mocked up the lower control arm and strut rod on the K-frame, and the shoulder of the strut rod sits 7/8" behind the K-frame. This is just slightly less than the thickness of what the original bushing, which is still intact, and washer has set to. The thickness of one bushing and washer is 1-1/8", so if I cut 1/4" off the rear bushing, it will allow the lower control arm to sit where it wants to be without any preload pushing it back, stressing the LCA bushing, and reducing caster. There is an early Barracuda auto-xer who cut 1/4" off the back of his poly strut rod bushings with success.



Hot Rod magazine installed a PST kit on a Dart, and this is what they did. You can see the washer says "THIS SIDE TO RUBBER" on the convex side:





I found these PST instructions on the internet, and they show only the rear washer concave out, and the front concave in:





Here are the instructions from a Moog A-body kit I have. Two styles have the concave washers both outward, which without these instructions, one would believe is backwards, and is opposite of what was originally installed, and how the FSM shows, but these bushings are different than original. They are the "improved design," which they charge four times the price for. This kit uses the style on the lower right, with one cup in, and one out like the PST instructions above:



The bigger washer says "THIS SIDE TO FRONT" on the convex side, so the concave is to the bushing, and the smaller one says "THIS SIDE TO RUBBER" on the convex side, so the concave is away from the rear bushing.



Now my PST kit didn't come with washers, so I only have the original washers, which may be shaped differently from the aftermarket ones that go backwards. Who would have thought a strut rod bushing could be so complicated?

i can't speak about an A-body so i don't know what is correct. my kit was Energy Suspension and was bushings only too. i put my washers on the exact same way the came off, cup facing into the bushing. the kit also came with a jar of silicone grease. in tour case i would use the brake grease. it's only to make them slide or press on easier and to help eliminate any of the squeaks everyone use to complain about.

I could squeeze them about .1" in a vise before experiencing hard resistance. They were .28" thicker than the sleeve, so I shaved .18" off the pointy end of the rear bushings. Torqued in place, with both washers facing concave side towards the bushing, it puts the LCA right where it should be on the K-frame without any preload fore or aft.

in the words of Ron Swanson - "cool beans!"

Found this in my '72 chassis book.
Not sure if Stock is different than poly??
About to do these myself so it has me wondering.

poly follows the same assembly if that was your question.
some of the confusion was caused by referencing an A-body assembly for a B-body and a size variance.

Update: Well that was a disaster. Think I'll use rubber for now on.

Someof that crack looks rusty, probably going to fail regardless, just happened quicker is all.

That looks like impact damage from repeatedly hitting potholes.

Well, these streets do suck.