So has anyone else tried out the penetrol to completion on a test piece?

I have some of that, took back the oderless mineral spirits, and now I am wondering if I should take the penetrol back and get the stinky mineral spirites.

I would test the penetrol myself but I am really gonna only have a small window to use space and doing tests now is not gonna happen for me.

I dont know if there's a benefit to using penetrol at 9.00 a can. It says it's main use is to allow the paint to flow and level better, but that is what the mineral spirits are for. The penetrol does mention adhesion, but it says that it increases adhesion with primers. And I think if you're using mineral spirits, allowing time to dry between coats, and using thin coats, adhesion is not a concern anyways.

Im not saying it would hurt, but I don't know of a benefit of it over mineral spirits for this.

Trying to match Q5 (seafoam green or bright turquoise metallic), I bought a quart of turquoise rustoleum at HD using the masstone tintbase last week. It is close but a little too dark.

Is there much difference in the color of the two tint bases? If they can custom match your sample using Glidden, and the tint bases are the same color, why not have them tint a quart of rustoleum using the Glidden formula. It might be worth a try.

Chris

Q5RR,
Let us know how that turquoise Rustoleum works out. I'm thinking about going down to HD in the next couple of days to pick up a gallon tinted the same color to paint my '66 Mustang (original color is 'Tahoe Turquoise').

- Ian

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Called my home depot and they DO have this glidden alkyd gloss in gallons and quarts, tintable.

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How accurate can they do a color match ? I assume by eyeballing a color chip correct?
(no spectro photometer)(color eye)

I asked rustoleum about painting my "washer" with standard white gloss paint, and if it would yellow since it doesn't get much sunlight. Rustoleum says

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We actually have an Appliance Epoxy that you could also use on your washer. However, our Stops Rust Gloss White will not yellow.

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Ok, guys i've decided to paint my car GLOSS WHITE NOW, the buddha civic that is. My question is, do i need to wetsand the whole car to its original paint to do the new gloss white or can i just paint it over the gray rust-oleum i was using, I have the whole car wetsanded now and am bout to test paint the hood with this gloss white.

Anyone paint something complex like a bumper with lots of holes for air/bumper lights/etc.? I am also wondering about the grill.

I bought some in a spraycan but I wonder if it will last like the stuff in quarts.

My experience with rattlecan jobs (did my car with 7 cans of bbq paint) is that over some time it will fade, chip easy, and is subject to being eaten alive by road salt.

they should be the same thing. But you can spray the stuff in the quarts can if you had the equipment and thinned it enough.

Well, my paint finally came in to Home Depot two days ago. I had ordered the Rustoleum Stop Rust Gloss Harbor Blue - almost identical to the factory light blue on the Duster.
I rolled on the first coat on the trunk lid last night. It rolled out fairly smoothly. There were some small bubbles, but as suggested, I dragged the roller over the a second time. Just the weight of the roller flattened the bubbles. All in all, the first coat looks fairly smooth as is, although it is very thin. Tonight I'll be adding a second coat. I'll post picutres when I get a few coats on and have done some wet sanding.
I noticed there were two types/brands of foam rollers at Home Depot, I went with the white foam rollers as opposed to the cheaper yellow rollers. There was definitely a difference in density and weight between the two.

If you read the find prints on the roller they will read, SUPER SMOOTH ROLLER or ULTRA SMOOTH ROLLER, lol yea kinda cheesy but thats what they say here in my HD. I saw the yellow one too and it said it was just a normal foam roller, there were other foam rollers but they were either smooth or fine and the third but not the least tucked away on the very top row was "ULTRA SMOOTH ROLLER"

The ultra smooth white rollers are what I bought. They are self-described as perfect for laying down high gloss paints on smooth surfaces.

they dont actually say anything about the paint. I've been talking with a local guy who does this paint all the time though and its a combination of the heat and durability that makes it not particularly good for auto use. Mailboxes arent getting pelted with dirt and dust and stuff and getting washed on a weekly basis.

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well i'm sure they say the paint is not for automotive use either, but think about it, that clear coat is made to be painted on brass mail boxes, over the rust paint, and that sits in the elements 24/7 and never really gets washed/waxed, ect....so i see no reason why it would'nt work on a car, they're just stating their disclamer so nobody sues them when they paint their car with it and then realize that it's not for cars.. but the clear coat is very durable, just like the paint.

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Hey. Do as JEFFS says. It works. I would appreciate anyone out there to tell me how to post the pics. of my results. I have a digital camera, the right c.d. on my computer etc. but can't seem to post. Please bear with me as I am a computer idiot, and my 15 year old wiz has better things to do. The easier the better for me. Thanks

Hi guys! Not sure how I stumbled on to this thread but I like it. I have been following since the 19th page and actually started preping my car myself That same day I went to Maccos after work and arrived at 5pm... and they were just leaving so I couldnt get an estimate.. I got an estimate before for 1700$+ .. which I was ready to spend 2k easy... and 3k if I had to :-s

Blah.. so that is my story.. been following you guys through the ups- like Exit's first test and the downs- like Exit's "scratch tests" - and then the ups again.. I figure I will just join now so my name gets here so I dont seem like a quick flash of news when I finish my car.

I have an '89 Camaro IROC Z28. I sanded it down. The paint was bad.. very bad. Rust, oxidization, peeling clearcoat, chips, etc. I also had dents in the metal and cracks in my lights and plastics and fiberglass.

Got 95% of it fixed. I need a few more "touch ups" before I will be satisfied enough to paint. I primed it yesterday because I had a lot of bare metal after sanding it down to get a smooth surface.

I haven't done this stuff before but it is a fun experience. Like I said I have been working on my car since page 19 and DAMN is it so much work!! Just removing the ground fx and stuff was a pain!!

I spent way more than 50$.. maybe around 200 at least. That is because I had to buy tools Seems like everytime I would buy a socket set the next bolt I would need to take off would need a different type of socket not in my set -_-

I have been listing to the mantra that "prep work is everything".. so I have been putting a lot of effort into the prep work. My car is pretty much smooth as glass right now.

I went and got my paint mixed at homedepot today. I got the "Gardenia" color- since they don't color match It is a close match to my original paint but not perfect. It is close enough for me though.

I have one more bondo fix on my car before I paint it and some light sanding to smooth things out a little more- Then I can paint.

I am doing everything outside in an apartment complex parking lot and that has been problematic but surprisingly a lot of people stop and chat with me and say good things. No one has complained to me yet.... it really suprises me because whoever parks next to me gets their car looking like a powder sugar covered donut after I am done sanding. ... but I do wipe down their cars.. and if I make it too messy I'll pay for a carwash for 'em. Anyway- just waiting for good weather before I can paint. I dont want to paint in the parkinglot though. There is a covered garage at the HD and the bottom level isn't really used. I Primed my car there. I think I will go hide there and paint when the time
comes Priming a car with spraypaint cans is easier to explain than rolling a car with can of paint

Ok, Cheers.. I have TONS of pictures of before and current progress- and have 1TB of webspace and 2TB of BW.. so if any videos need to be hosted I can do it.

-Serpent

To add a picture you can attach it to your post. Just make sure that the "I want to preview my post and/or attach a file" box is checked and then when you submit the next page will show a preview of your message and there will be a "browse" button that you can click to search for the image you want to attach. If your image is already on your PC just navigate to the directory that the image is stored at and click the [ok] button. If the image isn't on your computer yet- but on your camera- that will involve a few more steps. Mainly it would require you to connect your camera to the computer or take out the memory card and stick it in a card reader which you should connect to the computer- Either way you would navigate to the directory that the image is stored at and select it. If you give a deeper explination of why you can't seem to post the image here I am sure someone will have a good fix for you.

Cheers,
-Serpent

P.S. There is a limit on the file size