I have yet to find a set of Source rods that were right after properly cycling the bolts, or a crank that didn't have taper on more than one journal. Rods were always resized before use, and the taper was never outside of factory tolerance but was on the high limit regularly. It's good value stuff even with spending a little to make it "right". It's not "good out of the box".

Save the hassle and order Molnar. I've had one experience with Source parts and it resulted in a broken rod and junk motor.

As stated, i would check/have checked any OOTB machined "tolerances".
I'm running Source rods, but cycled the bolts & had them sized.
I know of Eagles that have had to have the same done.

Not to throw poop into the game but tell the whole story Eric. You bought a used engine that had the CHEAP I beem rods that most guys wouldn't use in a stock rebuild and were discontinued years ago. ALL parts need checked. Lots of good companies out there and I use them all. My old 440source (500 cubic inch) assembly had 275 (8 second) passes on it before I found a crack in the block. A friend is still using that same assembly years later in his street car and zero corrections were needed with the proper bearings.

You are right. Stroker cranks have taper. I know 2 engine builders (one in the Hot Rod Hall of Fame) that will not use certain company's cranks because of taper. A lot of engine builders use surface mic. that are only graduated into thousands, instead of tents. Optical comparators check the radius, t.i.r, and taper. Profile lometer to check finish. Now tell me again how you check crankshaft dimensions? In 1964, I was running a grinder and retired 35 years- running 6 axis cnc machines. I guess that I just have got old.

I was asking about side clearance because that is how I found out the lower rod bearing shell had the bearing locator notch in the wrong place pushing the bearing into the radius of the crank rod journal.

That was good .016 to .018. Crank end play was .008. A friend of mine had .045 for side clearance on a 499. Seams excessive to me, but i'm just set in my ways.

Well now if you checked everything and it speced out, where does that leave you? A spun rod bearing. Lost it's crush.. lack of oil, aerated oil, or over revved, sometimes you get that one [censored] bearing too, detonation (both audible & silent), heck, even a backfire. Lots of things can cause a bearing to spin. I seen Callies cranks do the same. Usually do to the above mentioned.

Who assemble that motor?

Ya'll are getting this all wrong. I had access to any kind of measuring tool that I would have needed. I JUST DID NOT DO IT! I ASSUMED that the complete assembly hand been gone over. It was my fault. I spun #4 and #4 only. All other bearings did not have the break in worn off. The rest of the journals were ok. It did not run out of oil. That rod journal was too tight and I did not find it. One and a half pass later it quit-1/8 mile. Bearing welded to journal, and rod end shattered. Rod next to it looked good. Main above it ok. Nothing in oil galley.

John the rotating assembly was brand new. Even the cheap discontinued rods they rated at 1000hp lol . I guess what I'm saying is at the price of the source stuff it's really no deal compared to K1 or Eagle or Molnar. So keep your options open even on a budget build.

Thanks Eric, My next build will definitely be one of them.

All I can say is... "It happen's" Been down that road..
Bottom Line.... Check it over well.... Oh and one more time...
Keep Building them Engines. OLD FARTS RULE !!!!!

A problem on SB's is the oil rushes by the #4 main so fast that the oil has a problem making the turn & the rods on either side can & have failed. I ain't up on BB's but reportedly they can have a similar but lesser same issue (& their routing as you know is different). I would definitely open up the galley to main passages (Mcandless & others have writeups on this) & consider bypass direct feed the other end of the gallery. Just thinking out loud & I hope it works out (I am considering a 543 'source kit) but at the moment 2K for 100 extra cubes ain't practical right now.

ohio crank stroker kits are good i use them all the time,any one else has on here ?

me too

511ci

On one of my motors oil starvation we blaimed the pick up sucking air, on a 452".

I've built around 12 stroker motors,B and RB, one Hemi, with Ohio Crankshaft CO cranks I bought one of their blem 4.25 stroke B cranks for myself that had a badly bent flywheel flange when I got it They replaced it for no charge with a new one and paid the freight both ways I had bought six other new ones on that order so that may have had some bearing on their decision making
I will buy more parts from them in the future
if your going wild looking for every last HP buy the really good stuff If your going mild with your build buy the mild parts

Well said.